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Con el estuche cerrado, coloca el Unibody boca arriba sobre una superficie plana.
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Presiona el lado ranurado del pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso lo suficiente para agarrar el extremo libre. Levanta el pestillo de liberación hasta que quede vertical.
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Agarra la lengüeta de plástico translúcido y extrae la batería de la Unibody.
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Si se presiona el pestillo, se bloqueará la batería en su lugar.
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Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior al chasis:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 5.4 mm.
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Tres tornillos Phillips de 14 mm.
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Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3.5 mm.
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Retira los siguientes 5 tornillos que sujetan la pared intermedia a la caja superior:
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Tres tornillos Phillips de 10.5 mm.
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Dos tornillos Phillips de 3.7 mm.
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Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan el ventilador derecho y el ventilador izquierdo a la placa lógica:
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Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3.5 mm.
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Dos tornillos Phillips de 3.2 mm.
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Remove eight 8.4 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the thermal sensor connector up off the logic board.
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4 comentarios
Wonder why there are springs on the heat sink screws? Do not over tighten them, the springs are there to help you apply the correct amount of pressure on to the CPU and GPU. If you tighten them all the way, it may not be the correct pressure! Leave maybe 1 mm of space, just before the screw stops turning. iFixit forgot to mention this important part, and also in the heat paste guide!!
My Macbook was over heating. i did these steps to put thermal paste but now my Macbook pro is not even opening.. please help..!!
My old Macbook was getting pretty hot (90-110 C on the main processor temperature sensor) doing normal tasks so I decided it was probably the thermal paste going bad. Successfully completed this using this guide, typing this on that computer now, thanks! It took me about 3 hours all in, including setup and cleanup afterwards. I did not replace the heat pipe assembly itself, just redid the thermal paste. I am actually curious what the symptoms are that would lead to completely replacing the heat pipe assembly itself. Running much cooler now (59 C).
I went through this last night to the T, made sure to be careful and put all cables back properly. Now when I start the laptop I get the startup noise, the screen will flicker really quick but then go back to black and stays black indefinitely. The keyboard lights come on and the laptop is running fine just no display. I’ve tried all the resetting pram and all of that to no avail. I have reseated the lcd cable multiple times and still have a black screen. At a loss.