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  1. Con el estuche cerrado, coloca el Unibody boca arriba sobre una superficie plana. Presiona el lado ranurado del pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso lo suficiente para agarrar el extremo libre. Levanta el pestillo de liberación hasta que quede vertical.
    • Con el estuche cerrado, coloca el Unibody boca arriba sobre una superficie plana.

    • Presiona el lado ranurado del pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso lo suficiente para agarrar el extremo libre. Levanta el pestillo de liberación hasta que quede vertical.

  2. La puerta de acceso ahora debe estar lo suficientemente levantada para levantarla y sacarla del Unibody.
    • La puerta de acceso ahora debe estar lo suficientemente levantada para levantarla y sacarla del Unibody.

  3. Asegúrate de que el pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso esté vertical antes de continuar.
    • Asegúrate de que el pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso esté vertical antes de continuar.

    • Agarra la lengüeta de plástico translúcido y extrae la batería de la Unibody.

    • Si se presiona el pestillo, se bloqueará la batería en su lugar.

  4. Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior al chasis:
    • Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior al chasis:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 5.4 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 14 mm.

    • Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3.5 mm.

  5. Usando ambas manos, levanta y retira la caja inferior de la caja superior.
    • Usando ambas manos, levanta y retira la caja inferior de la caja superior.

  6. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    If necessary, peel the EMI gasket off the camera cable connector. Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket toward the optical drive opening.
    • If necessary, peel the EMI gasket off the camera cable connector.

    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket toward the optical drive opening.

    • Do not try to lift this connector straight up off the board. Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Deroute the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.

  7. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    Remove the two Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case. The leftmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

    • The leftmost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

    • Seperate the camera cable bracket from the camera cable and remove it from the computer.

  8. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the LVDS cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer. Pull the LVDS connector straight away from its socket.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the LVDS cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

    • Pull the LVDS connector straight away from its socket.

    • When disconnecting the LVDS cable, do not pull on the black tab secured to the LVDS cable lock. We recommend wiggling the cable while applying tension to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  9. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    Remove the 7 mm Phillips screw from the LVDS cable bracket. This screw may remain captive in the LVDS cable.
    • Remove the 7 mm Phillips screw from the LVDS cable bracket.

    • This screw may remain captive in the LVDS cable.

    • Lift the LVDS cable bracket out of the upper case.

  10. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    Remove the two outer 6 mm Torx screws securing each side of the display to the upper case (four screws total).
    • Remove the two outer 6 mm Torx screws securing each side of the display to the upper case (four screws total).

  11. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
    • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your other hand, remove the 6 mm Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  12. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your other hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your other hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining 6 mm Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  13. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Lift the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

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61 personas más completaron esta guía.

Just repaired my Macbook Pro using this guide! Kudos for writing such easy to follow guides complete with pictures!

Great website.. Keep up the great work!

krkarl - Contestar

I used this guide to replace my hinges, but I noticed that the real problem was that the display was separating from the case. I Googled it and found a few reports like (https://discussions.apple.com/thread/371...) indicating that Apple has a replacement program in place addressing this as a latent defect.

I took my machine to the local Apple store, and even though I bought it at the end of 2008, they replaced the display for free.

If you're having a display separation issue it's worth seeing what Apple says before digging into it.

Marty Picco - Contestar

This thread is now "not authorized" for viewing. I think Apple doesn't want anyone to know about this issue!

pmpanache -

This is a great guide. I also read the guide pertaining to the 2.53 GHz Mid-2009 MacBook Pro Display Assembly.

I wanted to report that I successfully removed the display assembly from a Mid-2009 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz - no discrete graphics) and installed it on the Late-2008 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz with dual graphics).

Everything appears to be identical, except (strangely) the screws, that are generally captive in the camera cable and the LVDS cable, need to stay with their original MacBook Pro. Meaning, keep all the screws with the same MacBook Pro. The other screws did appear to be identical though.

Bottom line, keep the screws to the same MacBook. That's easy enough, just remove the captive screws from the cables to keep them with the same MacBook Pro they were from.

(Also, the camera cable where it attaches the logic board was slightly closer to the optical drive and seemed to overlap it slightly when transferring the Mid-2009 display to the Late-2008 MacBook Pro. This didn't seem to pose a problem.)

gatortpk - Contestar

I have to add to my previous comment about switching a mid-2009 15 inch MacBook Pro display to a late 2008 MacBook Pro. The reed switch that causes the computer to sleep when closing the display is on the other side. I tested this by holding a broken display (which has lots of magnets across the top) near the right side and this 2.53 GHz late-2008 Unibody MacBook Pro went to sleep. The magnet for the reed switch on the mid-2009 display is about halfway up the left side of the display. So I didn't notice this until I tried to close the MacBook and the backlight stayed on.

So while the display works perfectly and the hinges, camera cable, and LVDS cable match, the reed switch magnet is on the left side now (that meets the ExpressCard/34 slot, instead of the SD Card slot) instead of on the right (near the security slot) where the actual reed switch is for the late-2008 MacBook Pros.

I can just choose sleep from the Apple Menu every time, or put a tiny "refrigerator" magnet on the right side of the display.

gatortpk -

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