Introducción
Usa esta guía para reemplazar una pantalla rota en tu MacBook Pro Unibody.
Qué necesitas
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Con el estuche cerrado, coloca el Unibody boca arriba sobre una superficie plana.
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Presiona el lado ranurado del pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso lo suficiente para agarrar el extremo libre. Levanta el pestillo de liberación hasta que quede vertical.
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Agarra la lengüeta de plástico translúcido y extrae la batería de la Unibody.
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Si se presiona el pestillo, se bloqueará la batería en su lugar.
Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?
No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.
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Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior al chasis:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 5.4 mm.
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Tres tornillos Phillips de 14 mm.
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Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3.5 mm.
Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(
The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.
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Usando ambas manos, levanta y retira la caja inferior de la caja superior.
About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.
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Desconecte el cable de la cámara tirando del extremo macho directamente desde su zócalo hacia la abertura de la unidad óptica.
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Desvíe el cable de datos de la cámara del canal de la unidad óptica.
I have a problem with previous made unprofessional teardown of this mac, and the port that the camera cable is connected to, on the m-board, is cracked, because somebody pulled it straight up .. can someone please, share an idea about the way of fixing it, or maybe a name of the part i need ?
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Retire los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del cable de la cámara a la caja superior.
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Separe el soporte del cable de la cámara del cable de la cámara y retírelo del ordenador.
For reassembly, it would improve the instructions to note the exact orientation of the camera cable, as well as the LVDS cable, in these steps (7-10). This avoids confusion as to where those cables go when the display is reattached (working steps 11-13 in reverse).
As viewed from the orientation of the laptop at this point (looking into the motherboard from the underside), these cables are routed ABOVE the mounting plates for the hinges.
Viewed from the front of the machine (as it would be sitting on the desk in front of you during normal use), they are routed BELOW those plates.
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Retire los dos tornillos Torx exteriores de 6 mm que sujetan cada lado de la pantalla a la caja superior (cuatro tornillos en total).
Ccouldn't make it past step 10 as the two T6 screws on the right stripped. I was using the correct tool, correctly seated, but the screws were simply unwilling to turn and the screw head gave out before they turned at all. The ones on the left came out alright, but there seems to be some type of thread glue on them. Recommendations on how to break that seal without stripping the screw heads might be a good idea. Otherwise - be forewarned.
I have the same problem with step 10. Can't remove the screw on the left, it is all damaged.
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Abra su MacBook Pro de modo que la pantalla quede perpendicular a la carcasa superior.
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Coloque su MacBook Pro abierta sobre una mesa como se muestra en la imagen.
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Mientras sostiene la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la otra mano, retire el tornillo Torx de 6 mm del soporte inferior de la pantalla.
Unlock without removing them , the two remaining center 6mm Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.
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Retire el último tornillo Torx de 6 mm restante que sujeta la pantalla a la carcasa superior.
One of the Torx screws holding the Display in place failed to come out. I tried too hard and it shredded the head of the screw so there was no physical leverage to the screw driver, so I left it to avoid any further damage.
So instead I removed ‘not’the torx screw on the computer but the one on the display itself. There are three on the inner part of the screen, two facing the display and the third on the other side. It sled out easily.
It only added a couple of minutes to my time removing it.
But a word of caution, you must remove the long plastic housing that holds the cables for the iSight and display, just be gentle and slide it off trying not to snag the cables, it should come off easy.
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Sostenga la carcasa superior con la mano derecha y gírela ligeramente hacia la parte superior de la pantalla para que el soporte de la pantalla superior despeje el borde de la carcasa superior.
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Gire la pantalla ligeramente alejándola de la carcasa superior.
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Levante la pantalla para separarla de la carcasa superior, teniendo en cuenta los soportes o cables que puedan quedar atrapados.
If I purchase a MBP 15' for parts that has a good top case, LCD and Glass, could I stop at Step 14, replace the entire top case and reverse from Step 13 to put it back together? Or do I need to proceed with steps 14 to 21, loosening the glue, lifting the glass, replacing the LCD?
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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6 comentarios
I used this guide to replace my hinges, but I noticed that the real problem was that the display was separating from the case. I Googled it and found a few reports like (https://discussions.apple.com/thread/371...) indicating that Apple has a replacement program in place addressing this as a latent defect.
I took my machine to the local Apple store, and even though I bought it at the end of 2008, they replaced the display for free.
If you're having a display separation issue it's worth seeing what Apple says before digging into it.
This thread is now "not authorized" for viewing. I think Apple doesn't want anyone to know about this issue!
This is a great guide. I also read the guide pertaining to the 2.53 GHz Mid-2009 MacBook Pro Display Assembly.
I wanted to report that I successfully removed the display assembly from a Mid-2009 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz - no discrete graphics) and installed it on the Late-2008 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz with dual graphics).
Everything appears to be identical, except (strangely) the screws, that are generally captive in the camera cable and the LVDS cable, need to stay with their original MacBook Pro. Meaning, keep all the screws with the same MacBook Pro. The other screws did appear to be identical though.
Bottom line, keep the screws to the same MacBook. That's easy enough, just remove the captive screws from the cables to keep them with the same MacBook Pro they were from.
(Also, the camera cable where it attaches the logic board was slightly closer to the optical drive and seemed to overlap it slightly when transferring the Mid-2009 display to the Late-2008 MacBook Pro. This didn't seem to pose a problem.)
I have to add to my previous comment about switching a mid-2009 15 inch MacBook Pro display to a late 2008 MacBook Pro. The reed switch that causes the computer to sleep when closing the display is on the other side. I tested this by holding a broken display (which has lots of magnets across the top) near the right side and this 2.53 GHz late-2008 Unibody MacBook Pro went to sleep. The magnet for the reed switch on the mid-2009 display is about halfway up the left side of the display. So I didn't notice this until I tried to close the MacBook and the backlight stayed on.
So while the display works perfectly and the hinges, camera cable, and LVDS cable match, the reed switch magnet is on the left side now (that meets the ExpressCard/34 slot, instead of the SD Card slot) instead of on the right (near the security slot) where the actual reed switch is for the late-2008 MacBook Pros.
I can just choose sleep from the Apple Menu every time, or put a tiny "refrigerator" magnet on the right side of the display.
gatortpk -
So I managed to do all this perfect except now my wifi card isn't recognised. I did miss out step three, which may well be my fatal error. I've ordered a new wifi card and I hope swapping this out will fix it. Anyone come across this?
The A1286 has no Access Door.!!
I actually can see no sign of the battery!...
aguib - Contestar
I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.
lgc90 - Contestar
when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?
irishking - Contestar
Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?
Max
Max - Contestar
On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. Reemplazo del disco duro del MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.
Can you confirm this?
Many thanks in advance.
ahothabeth - Contestar
My display and aluminum casing has separated.
I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.
I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.
I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping
portion have been broken........
SHerwood Ball - Contestar
When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?
thvv - Contestar
We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.
Andrew Optimus Goldheart -
Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.
I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.
The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.
Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!
landryd - Contestar
Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?
jegonzalez80 - Contestar
Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.
kenneth krabat - Contestar