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Use this guide to replace the Logic Board in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015.

Don't forget to clean and re-apply thermal paste if you remove the heat sink. Follow this guide to learn how.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Contestar

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Contestar

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - Contestar

    Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).

    Andrew Poindexter -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Contestar

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Contestar

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Contestar

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Contestar

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Contestar

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Contestar

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Contestar

    You don't have to take so many steps.

    santa1234 - Contestar

    I have magnets- is this the wrong guide?

    Benjamin Jones - Contestar

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Contestar

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Contestar

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Contestar

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Contestar

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Contestar

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Contestar

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Contestar

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Contestar

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Contestar

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Contestar

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

  6. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way. The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable. To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - Contestar

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - Contestar

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - Contestar

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - Contestar

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - Contestar

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - Contestar

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - Contestar

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - Contestar

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - Contestar

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - Contestar

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - Contestar

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - Contestar

    How? can you explain the procedure?

    Cosimo Soderi -

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - Contestar

    Can anyone explain how to remove the card instead of wires? About to try that out instead, but am going in blind! I see the screw holding the card down, just not sure what to do next…

    Peter Scalzitti IV - Contestar

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - Contestar

    Is tihs needed? I just want to replace the right speaker.

    jrmc2323 - Contestar

  7. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    Malcolm Hall - Contestar

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - Contestar

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - Contestar

    This step is unnecessary if you are only replacing the right speaker. - simply loosen the cables that run across the fan, and you will later be able to remove the fan without disconnecting this cable. If you are replacing the left speaker, you do need to remove it, as otherwise the cable will be in the way when you lift out the logic board.

    Gareth Jones - Contestar

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - Contestar

  10. Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.
    • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - Contestar

    My cable connector covers are not screwed down. Mid 2015 15” MBP. That’s the computer in the title of this article so idk.

    Andrew Sauk - Contestar

    I’m having trouble breaking the 2.2 mm screws loose and I don’t want to strip the head. I’m using the T5 screwdriver. Does anyone know any tricks or suggestions?

    Madeline Young - Contestar

    Ok, so the correct size Torx is the T4, not T5

    Madeline Young -

  11. Remove the left connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the left connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  12. Remove the right connector cover. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Remove the right connector cover.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    When re-assembling, the right connector cover is the smaller of the two.

    richardgraham_2000 - Contestar

  13. Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.
    • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    • Remove the cable.

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - Contestar

    Why is this suddenly the Top I/O cable rather than just the I/O cable? This may seem trivial, but the change in terminology suggests its not the cable we just unfastened and to look for another one.

    prreitz - Contestar

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm screw

  15. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    This step needs a larger picture to show the retaining flap hinged upward. This photo doesn’t convey what the words say.

    prreitz - Contestar

  16. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

    I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.

    Bill Klemme - Contestar

    Using a spudger does help alleviate stress on the cable. I also used it to help get the cable up from being adhered to the logic board.

    Joshua McMillan - Contestar

    Adding to the other comments, the fan is very light and has no resistance lifting out of the place it sits in.

    I carefully lifted the fan just before there was any tension on the cable.

    With the fan held in my right hand and spudger in my left, I moved the spudger under the fan approaching from the left side.

    This allowed me to easily place the flat end of the spudger under the cable where the thicker plastic sits and gently pry the cable up until the cable broke away from the body.

    I then used the pointed part of the spudger to gently pry the connector part of the cable away from the socket while gently pulling the fan away until the cable was disconnected and the entire fan was free.

    David Carroll - Contestar

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  18. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  19. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I didn’t have any problem unlocking the cable but rather after finishing the job and closing the hinged retaining flap. The hinged flap wiggles, it moves and wasn’t 100% properly aligned. It’s not like it was badly out of place and I tried to force it, no, on the contrary, I was being extremely delicate, but it wiggles in place so so very slightly since it’s not a real hinge. You need to make sure it hasn’t moved before applying any pressure trying to close it or IT WILL break off. It’s frustrating that I damaged the fan connector, not by prying on the socket, but in the last step of just locking the latch.

    Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it maybe not making a proper connection. I am now wondering how other’s have fixed your damaged connectors? As I mentioned at the beginning, I’m sure I’m not the first since all the connectors are incredibly fragile. Any feedback?

    Robert Habib - Contestar

  21. Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket. The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.
    • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

    • Remove the fan.

    Same comment as on step 16…use spudger.

    Bill Klemme - Contestar

  22. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  23. Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it. Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  24. Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector. Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

    • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

    • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

    Oh, you rotated the computer while I wasn’t watching.

    prreitz - Contestar

  25. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - Contestar

    It's interesting that you had to remove the heat pipe screw. This didn't seem to be in the way for me. The I/O board came out quite easily without any issues.

    But… it could be different for others as it was for you. I just thought I'd share my experience.

    David Carroll -

    Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down

    Keith Kern - Contestar

  26. Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case. Remove the I/O board.
    • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

  27. Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

    • Remove the cover.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board. Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

    • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

    • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

    seems to be a photo of a different model. connector is more or less in the same place though.

    Gareth Jones - Contestar

  29. Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

  30. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

    Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

    Peter G - Contestar

    Screw with blue circle was in a slightly different position on my logic board; the gold plating surrounding it is the giveaway.

    prreitz - Contestar

  31. The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.
    • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

    • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

    I think it would be helpful to mention at this point that the detail of how to disconnect each individual connector is shown in the next six steps.

    Jaap Van den Berg - Contestar

  32. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

  33. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

  34. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

  35. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

    The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.

    vincentdrummer - Contestar

    Same thing happened to me. Didn’t really put much pressure either.

    meadowsd -

    I had the same issue. Did you find a way to change the retaining flap?

    Olivier -

    The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?

    Bill Klemme - Contestar

    I can confirm blue colour of cable tip.

    Mighty Sashiman -

  36. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

    Note that the connector sits inside of a little “box” which is the socket. Don’t try to pry up underneath that but stay under where the wires are connected. The pictures are good, and you can see the “box” in the last picture.

    Bill Klemme - Contestar

  37. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.

    Bill Klemme - Contestar

    Thanks for calling this out. I took a picture of the socket after disconnecting. I can see why it might have been less obvious on reassembly.

    David Carroll -

  38. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - Contestar

    My mid-2015 has a flexible plastic tape on the cable lock bar, pulling the tape up with tweezers easily rotated the locking bar.

    prreitz - Contestar

  39. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.
    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

    • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

    The wording of the instruction: “Pull the display data cable STRAIGHT OUT of its socket on the logic board” could lead to errors. It almost happened to me.

    Instead you should word it: “Pull the display data cable parallel to the face of the logic board being careful to keep it straight and NOT LIFT UP on the cable”.

    I realize you mention it later in the warning immediately below, however, by first saying “pull the cable straight out” leads to confusion and could lead the user to attempt to interpret “PULL STRAIGHT OUT” as “PULL UP” unsuccesfully only to later notice, maybe after breaking it, that there was a warning.

    Wording it properly the first time will make the warning unnecessary.

    Robert Habib - Contestar

    I had the same thought as I almost proceeded without noticing the red text warning.

    I especially think the second warning about not touching the contacts on the data connectors should be listed before the instructions on removing it.

    David Carroll -

    Agree with Robert. Suggest “SLIDE the display cable to the right, out of its socket…” would be less misleading.

    prreitz - Contestar

    I think it bears repeating just how fragile this connector is, particularly on reinsertion. The problem isn’t just technicians touching the connector end; you can damage the pins simply by inserting it slightly out of alignment, or at an angle, because the outermost pins are VERY close to the edge and are very fragile. They have the appearance of being embedded in the connector but they’re actually spring traces just lying on top of it. I managed to bend the southmost pin upwards reinserting it; luckily it flattened out again and worked, but if it had not been possible to do that it’d have been a whole new screen assembly.

    Jerome - Contestar

  40. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.
    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

  41. Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
    • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

    • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

    When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.

    Andrey Pirozhenko - Contestar

    Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.

    Alek Curless - Contestar

    Yes. This step is crucial. Thanks for pointing it out!

    jonvdez -

    I was struggling to align it and was beginning to get frustrated. I had to look back at photos to make sure the tabs had to go under the lip of the aluminum frame. Unfortunately I read your comment after the fact. Thank you.

    Robert Habib -

    if you’re only removing the right speaker, no need to remove the logic board. Simply lift the edge of the logic board to remove the speaker cable.

    Gareth Jones - Contestar

  42. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable. Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.

    • Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Just like the display data cable, be sure to pull the connector out of its socket parallel to the face of the logic board. Do not lift the connector up. Do not touch the connector.

  43. Pull the MagSafe 2 connector straight out of its socket (parallel to the logic board). Pull the MagSafe 2 connector straight out of its socket (parallel to the logic board).
    • Pull the MagSafe 2 connector straight out of its socket (parallel to the logic board).

  44. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the logic board.

  45. Lift the end of the AirPort board up enough to pass over the heat sink directly behind it. Do not lift the AirPort board too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Pull the AirPort board straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Lift the end of the AirPort board up enough to pass over the heat sink directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the AirPort board too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

    • Pull the AirPort board straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • There is a slightly adhesive thermal pad beneath the AirPort board. Be sure to reapply this when reinstalling the board.

  46. Remove the four 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws from the heat sink brackets. These screws hold two springy heat sink brackets in place, which hold the heat sink against the CPU. They may spring up when you remove the first screw. Remove the heat sink brackets.
    • Remove the four 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws from the heat sink brackets.

    • These screws hold two springy heat sink brackets in place, which hold the heat sink against the CPU. They may spring up when you remove the first screw.

    • Remove the heat sink brackets.

  47. Remove the heat sink.
    • Remove the heat sink.

    • On reassembly, be sure to clean the CPU and heat sink and reapply thermal compound to the CPU. Follow this guide to learn how.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Any tips on where to purchase a replacement logic board?

Isaac Hake - Contestar

eBay eBay eBay

Jon Lewin - Contestar

What are the sponges between the heat sink and logic board? Where can i get them, or maybe some replacement?

Alex B - Contestar

Can i use the mid-2015 logic board to mid-2012?

Odie Miranda - Contestar

This logic board is the model whit just one graphic card, in the other model the logic board have one IC close to processor

george2 alcivar2 - Contestar

Can the heatsink be removed without taking out the logic board?

Shazz Mahfudz - Contestar

i have a mid 2015 2.5ghz MacBook pro. Can I replace the defective logic board with the 2.8ghz logic board?

geomatrixx - Contestar

thanks, i managed to clean up my mac and change cpu and gpu thermal paste. finally, no underclocking when reaching high temps!

Radu Ursache - Contestar

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