Introducción

If your MagSafe 2 power adapter has been damaged, you can replace it. Use this guide to install a replacement MagSafe DC-In Board.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

  3. Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

  4. Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

  5. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

  7. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan. Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive. Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

  8. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

  9. Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.  On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex. In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board. Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.

    • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

    • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

  10. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

  11. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.
    • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

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  14. Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

  15. Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
    • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

  17. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

  18. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

    • Lift the left fan out of the device.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  19. Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  20. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

  21. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer. Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  22. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board. Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

    • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

  25. Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
    • Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

  26. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.

  27. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  29. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

  30. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  31. Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.

  32. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.8 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.5 mm Silver T5 Torx screw

  33. Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro. Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board. When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.
    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.

    • Clockwise from top: keyboard, trackpad, battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, display, microphone, headphone jack, left speaker.

  34. Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

  35. Rotate the device 180 degrees to more easily access the rest of the internal components. Remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
    • Rotate the device 180 degrees to more easily access the rest of the internal components.

    • Remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

    • Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right free it from its recess within the upper case.

    • Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 personas más completaron esta guía.

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Thank you for this guide, my room flooded and my laptop got wet. the entire display had a water bubble, but i kept it under 2 fans for a month, and the water dried out except for a little spot at the bottom of the screen. But, my computer stopped charging, and i didnt see any lights on the charger turning on. the laptop worked as long as connected to power, but wasn’t charging my battery. When my battery power eventually hit zero, my laptop wouldn’t switch on anymore. Took it to an apple store, they quoted me a price of $1350, when a new laptop starts at $1200. I found out the problem was the magsafe port, ordered the part and the screwdrivers needed, followed this guide, and in about 3 - 3.5 hours and parts cost under $50, my laptop is working properly again with no problems. For a first timer, the whole process looks daunting, but it was kind of fun and not at all as problematic as I thought it would be. Thanks again.

lakshay puniani - Contestar

OMG! It is entirely possible to both remove and replace the MagSafe Connector without removing the logic board, making this 5 or 6 steps instead of 33!!

Once you remove the lower case (and disconnect the battery if you feel you must—I’ve been inside my MacBook a dozen times and no longer find that necessary, although it probably is safer to disconnect it), you can skip skip straight to Step 28 and remove the display data cable. Move that out of way and remove the two screws securing the MagSafe Connector.

Now, with a little finesse you can lift the MagSafe board and slide its connector out of the logic board. I nudged it out a bit with a screwdriver from the part that was visible (on the other side of the logic board) and gently pulled the five wires and it slid right out. It didn’t put any stress on the wires at all.

To give myself some wiggle room I also removed:

one screw from step 30 (5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw)

two screws from step 16 (4.4 mm T5 Torx screw and 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar)

Douglas Krugman - Contestar

I’ve read this all through and at first it looked daunting, but the above comment which reduced it to many fewer steps got me interested. What is the most difficult part (I really don’t want to damage anything, rip off delicate connections etc.)

I’m hoping my magsafe connector is fried, as not expensive to replace. What visible evidence is there showing it has failed? Does it have to show signs of burning, or can it fail with no obvious damage?

Charger was getting very hot and no LEDs lighting up.

I replaced the power adapter and cleaned all magsafe contacts, the outer two were black (the ground terminals?) but plastic surround not melted. Laptop works fine with charger connected, but only shows 2% charge which never changes. If I take out connector, laptop closes down quickly. I hope the logic board is OK……

Jules - Contestar

thx . useful info

Maciek - Contestar

This is the first time I opened my MacBook Pro. Thanks for your procedure. The keyboard ribbon from the Step 24 is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine.

Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass or Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

Jay Rajamanickam - Contestar

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