Introducción
Puedes instalar discos duros de hasta 9,5 mm de grosor.
Qué necesitas
Resumen del Video
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Usa tus dedos para empujar ambas pestañas de liberación de la batería para separarlas de la batería y levanta la batería para sacarla de la computadora.
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Retira los tres tornillos Phillips idénticos de la tapa de la memoria.
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Retira los dos tornillos Phillips en el compartimiento de la batería cerca del pestillo.
Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.
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Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips en el lado del puerto de la computadora.
Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.
Been there, done that!
I honestly don't remember how did I ultimately succeeded in getting that %#*@ screw back from the hole...by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM
Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.
To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.
Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!
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Levanta la parte posterior del estuche y pasa los dedos por los lados, liberando el estuche a medida que avanza. Una vez que hayas liberado los lados, es posible que tengas que mover la caja hacia arriba y hacia abajo para liberar el frente de la caja superior. Esta etapa puede ser bastante complicada.
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Sobre el lector de DVD hay 4 pestañas retrasadas que se abren verticalmente.
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Ten en cuenta que las dos pequeñas lengüetas en el frente izquierdo de la caja superior pueden doblarse mientras retiras la caja superior. Al volver a instalarlos, es posible que debas doblarlos hacia atrás para que encajen en las ranuras de la carcasa inferior.
Cita de khank:
On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.
I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?
I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.
That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"
just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees
Cita de Archhawk:
Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.
I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.
I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.
There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.
The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.
After reading all the step 9 comments I was prepared for it to be very difficult. The two bendable tabs on the left front of the case were no bigger than 1/4 inch wide each and caused no trouble taking it off or putting it back on. Lifting the cover off happened before I knew it. I was carefully lifting the cover from side to side and 'poof' it was off and the yellow ribbon attaching between the case and the keyboard was so old and brittle it parted ways without my permission so that took care of step 10 right there but no problem.
Being prepared, reading the guide, printing the guide, taping each screw to the right place on the guide made it all easy. I'm amazed it went so smooth on the first run-through. Thanks iFixit!
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Desconecta el cable plano del panel táctil y del teclado de la placa lógica y retira la cinta según sea necesario.
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Retira la mayúscula.
not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..
-urdus.
I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.
Cita de urdus:
not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..
-urdus.
Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).
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Desconecta el cable plano naranja del disco duro de la placa lógica.
I fully agree with urdus. Step 11 is un-needed when replacing the harddrive.
Cita de urdus:
you dont need to do this. disconnect the sleeplight and IR sensor connectors instead. Just lift the harddrive cable where it is glued. It can still be connected to the logicboard. Dont lift the harddrive too much when disconnecting it.
Yikes! I did Step 11 and now I have loose ribbon cable. How do I attach it back? Do I have to solder it?
I agree with Urdus... less one step if you're careful enough...
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Utiliza un spudger para aflojar con cuidado el adhesivo que sujeta los conectores de la luz de reposo y del sensor de infrarrojos a la parte superior del disco duro.
I didn't have a budger/spudger, so I cut the brush side off a used plastic toothbrush and used the handle after sharpening the cutoff end into a wedge... works great!
I use UN-DU scrapbookers adhesive remover <http://un-du.com/>. (It is hexane.) It temporarily dissolves adhesive bond, then evaporates and the adhesive is sticky again. Much less risky than a spudger.
cheongi -
Agreed! Two hugely tricky steps here. The larger of the two components really did NOT want to come away from the hard drive case (I was afraid of tearing the ribbon cable), AND I accidentally pulled the Bluetooth ribbon out from the case. Heck of a job to replace it! Anyone know where I can get the opaque plastic sheath for the Bluetooth board?
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Desliza la placa Bluetooth fuera de su ranura, junto al disco duro. La placa Bluetooth sigue conectada al cable naranja del disco duro, así que no intentes extraerla por completo del ordenador.
Torx and no bluetooth card in MBP from March 2008.
I couldn't figure out how to 'slide' the Bluetooth board out, so I just left it in place and pulled the hard drive out.
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Levanta el disco duro con una mano y utiliza la otra para retirar el soporte de sujeción del lateral del disco duro.
NOTE TO ORIGINAL MBP CORE DUO OWNERS: This picture makes it look like the retaining bracket comes off when you lift out the hard drive at this point, but it does NOT. The bracket is attached to the hard drive via 2 Torx screw (step 17), which must first be removed.
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Desconecta el cable naranja del disco duro.
My new Hitachi drive has the "do not cover" hole right under the place where the IR and sleep sensors need to be attached. The stock drive had the hole on the other end of the hard drive. I just made sure the adhesive didn't seal off the hole, and I think it should be alright. Otherwise, install was easy and these directions were outstanding. Thanks.
I had the same problem with my Western Digital Scorpio 2.5in 500GB SATA 16MB. Otherwise, the instructions were awesome. I had to have the tape "just" left of the breather hole and the ribbon cable wasn't flush, but I don't think it's too big a deal. Drive was recognized by the laptop immediately and good old Time Machine restore is on its way.
Thanks, I managed to put a new 320 GB drive in. Next I partitioned the drive for MAC OS 10.4 and Windows with Disk Utility. Selected Volume Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for Mac OS 10.4 and MS-DOS File System for Windows. Next I restored Mac OS 10.4 with Carbon Copy from the old 100 GB drive, BUT how to restore Windows?@#$%^&* Carbon Copy doesn't do that.....??
Cita de Barbara:
Thanks, I managed to put a new 320 GB drive in. Next I partitioned the drive for MAC OS 10.4 and Windows with Disk Utility. Selected Volume Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) for Mac OS 10.4 and MS-DOS File System for Windows. Next I restored Mac OS 10.4 with Carbon Copy from the old 100 GB drive, BUT how to restore Windows?@#$%^&* Carbon Copy doesn't do that.....??
My new SATA 500GB Hitachi was Initialised and Partitoned with Disk Utility when inside an external USB box ($20.00), and then all the contents of the 80GB was CCC'd over. When the new drive was switched over and tested before reassembly, everything came up identical to the original HD. (but I don't use Windows)! Kudos to CCC, and this site for clear instructions! Thanks, Guys/Gals.
On my MBP, the orange cable was glued for it's length on the top of the original drive. Rather than try to peal it off, I removed the sticker underneath which was easier as the orange cable came with it. It also made putting it back easier.
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Retira los dos tornillos Torx T6 plateados y los topes de goma negros del lado derecho del disco duro.
On my macbook the bumpers are white and the screws are silver. Note that the bumpers are different on the right side than the left side in size as well!
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Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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8 comentarios
i found that i needed to "rock" the upper case left to right, not up and down, in order to remove it. and although i was trying to be careful, the keyboard ribbon cable was so tight that the connection popped off when i released the upper lid. took a minute to find the connection on the logic board.
when i was removing the hard drive, for whatever reason, there was no bluetooth board on top of the retaining bracket.
other than that, the directions were fantastic. i'll recommend you to all my friend!
the only sad part is that it turned out the hard drive was not the source of the "rice crispies" noise, which is what sent me on this journey in the first place. i now think it's the right-hand fan. whoo hoo! more maintennance!
thanks again,
steve shelley
Even better than little bags or a sorting tray--get an old egg carton, 12 or 18, and use a Sharpee to mark the step number on each egg holder. That way, bumping the table won't screw up your sorting, and you can easily find the right screws in the right order.
Worked for me exactly as shown! Thank You!
One thing that was not mentioned is if you are upgrading to a larger capacity hard drive from the original, you can clone the original hard drive (if it hasn't crashed) to the new one then do the swap. You can then use the Universal Drive Adapter to format the smaller drive and use it as you wish.
I followed the instructions exactly and after replacing the drive the device won’t start fully. All I hear are the fans turning on, DVD drive noise and the light on the front displays. No audio and nothing on the display, totally black , not even a flicker. Any thoughts as to what I might have done wrong or damaged? Hopefully someone knows how to fix this? Thanks
Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process
rpbetancourt - Contestar
If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)
Adam - Contestar
Thank you very much!
Evgeniy - Contestar
When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.
mark93 - Contestar
I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.
Tarn Alcock - Contestar