Introducción

Restaura el sonido a tu ordenador portátil reemplazando los altavoces.

  1. Usa tus dedos para empujar ambas lengüetas de liberación de la batería lejos de la batería, y levanta la batería de la computadora.
    • Usa tus dedos para empujar ambas lengüetas de liberación de la batería lejos de la batería, y levanta la batería de la computadora.

    Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

    ColmillodeChile - Contestar

    Besides using WD 500GB models, are the WD 640GB and WD 750GB (the 9.5mm thickness model) good to go for? I am still considering as I have heard from other websites on the computer does not draw enough power to power up the 640 and 750 as it has the clicking sound and the rainbow keeps appearing. Anyone has install one before yet?

    Please advice. Appreciated! Thanks a million to all the Mac gurus out there!

    Danny Lim -

    Cita de ColmillodeChile:

    Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

    What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

    Adrian - Contestar

    No, that's nonsense

    max damage -

    Cita de Adrianthomaspre:

    What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

    Wait, I misunderstood you. I thought the comment was directed at the PRAM battery removal page. Silly me.

    Nevermind. Yes, it is always a good idea to backup one's data before doing stuff like this. I never do, and have never had any problems, but it's still a good idea.

    Adrian - Contestar

    The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

    Doug - Contestar

    Cita de Doug:

    The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

    I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

    (MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 RAM Replacement)

    Don - Contestar

    I'm not sure how the user notes get attached to the various procedures here, but my comment does seem to show up properly when viewing the steps for Hard Drive Replacement. However, the number of the step may be off if viewed as part of another procedure.

    Cita de Don:

    I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

    (MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 RAM Replacement)

    Doug - Contestar

  2. Retira los tres tornillos idénticos PH000 Phillips de 2 mm de la puerta de la memoria.
    • Retira los tres tornillos idénticos PH000 Phillips de 2 mm de la puerta de la memoria.

    • Levanta la puerta de la memoria lo suficiente como para agarrarla y deslizarla hacia ti, separándola de la carcasa.

    These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

    Maarten Van Coile - Contestar

    Replacing RAM on an A1226: The instructions said Phillips #00, but the screwdriver that fit the RAM Shield screws for me was a Phillips #0.

    dlyons - Contestar

    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 2,8 mm en el compartimento de la batería cerca del pestillo.

    These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

    Maarten Van Coile - Contestar

    Keep these two Philips screws separate. The screws are approximately 0.5mm shorter in length. When using one or two of the other longer screws in the battery compartment when reassembling, the lid will not open because the screw(s) do yam the lid button.

    Peter van Nes - Contestar

    I had a logic board replaced by Apple (bad nVidia GPU), and believe it or not the Apple tech mixed up the screws. My latch did not work as good until I discovered and swapped the misplaced screws.

    madmaxmedia - Contestar

    I removed the memory here as you would normally if you were changing it.

    Mike Matthias - Contestar

    • Retira los siguientes 6 tornillos:

      • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 10 mm a cada lado de la ranura RAM.

      • Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 14.5 mm a lo largo de la bisagra.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los cuatro Phillips PH00 de 3.2 mm en el lado de los puertos de la computadora.

    If you are using a muffin pan to keep removed parts separate (a method I recommend highly), note that Steps 5, 6, and 7 involve removing the same size screw—and thus you can put them all in the same pile. This is unlike just about every other part you will remove during this procedure.

    Matt McCaffrey - Contestar

    Using shot glasses!

    peterbcpa -

    If you are a mac newbie like me take care when you reassemble not to insert a screw in the DVI display port screw holes (shame). I cannot manage to get it out anymore.

    tai manu - Contestar

    I did the same thing once, and eventually got it out. Try tweezers, a screwdriver, magnets, holding the MBP on its side so gravity is working with you, etc. Eventually the little bugger will come out, you just have to keep working at it.

    madmaxmedia -

    It would be a good idea to put some sticky tape on those two DVI display port holes, so that you never make the mistake to insert (when reassemble) any of the screws!

    genik - Contestar

    RE: Misplaced Screws in the DVI port, I was upgrading an early 2008 MacBook Pro with an SSD to get some more life out it, and sure enough, misplaced one of these small screws into the DVI port upon reassembly. Screwdrivers, shaking, gravity... nothing worked. UNTIL I went to my dad's house and his super-comprehensive workbench, where he found a small, high-pull magnet and the little bugger flew right out. Refrigerator magnets won't cut it, you will need a more powerful magnet, such as these: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?...

    Hope this helps someone... it was an easy solution to a frustrating problem

    John Lee - Contestar

    • Gira la computadora 90 grados y retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 3,2 mm de la parte posterior de la computadora.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Gira la computadora 90 grados nuevamente y retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3,2 mm del lateral de la computadora.

    Agregar Comentario

    • No quites la cubierta superior rápidamente. La carcasa está unida a la placa lógica mediante un cable plano.

    • Levanta la parte trasera de la carcasa y mueve los dedos a lo largo de los lados, liberando la carcasa sobre la marcha. Una vez que hayas liberado los lados, es posible que debas mover la caja hacia arriba y hacia abajo para liberar el frontal de la carcasa superior.

    • Hay cuatro clips de plástico encima de la ranura del DVD, y otro arriba y a la izquierda del sensor IR. Estos clips pueden ser muy difíciles de desenganchar sin hacer palanca. También pueden ser difíciles de volver a conectar durante el reensamblaje.

    • Consejo de reensamblado: presiona firmemente la punta de la carcasa superior sobre la ubicación de cada clip hasta que oigas un chasquido para volver a colocarlos en sus ranuras.

    • Consejo de reensamblado: Los dos clips centrales del DVD rara vez se ajustarán de nuevo correctamente sin ayuda, y la presión hacia abajo simplemente deformará el marco de la ranura del DVD. Apoya el marco insertando un spudger en la ranura del DVD directamente bajo el clip hasta que se ajuste, luego presiona hasta que oigas el chasquido.

    The clips above the DVD slot (below the deck palm rest) are an absolute bear. They're hard to get released, and even harder to get back locked when you reassemble. (I've read to tilt the deck toward you when reassembling, inserting the front edge first, and press about an inch back from the edge to get all the front clips locked first before lowering the rest (back) of the deck.) No success for me yet, best of luck.

    sonofray - Contestar

    I thought these two videos did an excellent job of showing the technique of removing and replacing the drive.

    MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 1 of 3):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv...

    MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 3 of 3):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWeFXWXpp...

    After watching that, I had the keyboard replaced in 2 minutes.

    Chris -

    the technique you describe of putting the front down first, is exactly what I did and it worked well

    dillonsavard -

    Those clips on the front edge are very challenging. I have a set of nylon pry tools that are for taking apart car dashboards without scratching the vinyl or plastic. I was able to get a long one in from the side and twist it which freed the clips without damaging the plastic on the upper case or the aluminum on the lower case.

    Putting it back together presented another challenge. When I first re-assembled it I think I pushed too hard over the DVD slot and accidentally bent the metal down. I was able to bend it back up using a thicker part of those same nylon pry tools, and then i was able to get it snapped back down successfully. Had I known this would happen, I would have just put the nylon tool in the slot to reinforce the metal as I was snapping the case back down.

    Nick - Contestar

    As everyone has said, the front clips by the DVD can be really tight. Use the spudger to pry the top and bottom halves apart. Slow work it in from one side to separate the top and bottom.

    When reassembling the case, work the front clips by the DVD drive back in first. Once you slide them back in, the rest of the case fits easily.

    Ted Wise - Contestar

    i've used an old atm card, it works fine.

    rotarypot - Contestar

    I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

    I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

    David - Contestar

    You're on the right track David. But what works really good is something that gets more surface area contact than the pen--I carefully insert a stack of 3" square post-it notes about 3/8" into the slot. And because they're stacked, you can easily add/subtract post-its to get as tight a fit as possible. Then, assuming you have everything lined up, use quite a bit of downward pressure. You should hear a few snaps as the clips reseat.

    Quote from David:

    I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

    I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

    John Kassler Niemann - Contestar

    John, I didn't think of that. But yeah you are right, it would give it a lot more support.

    David - Contestar

    I have none of the problems above just was very careful, but inserting the palm rest in first does most of the work , gently does it looking at the alinement of the clips as you go straight in she goes!

    swissgrip - Contestar

    I would agree with everyone that the clips above the DVD drive are very temperamental. They came off easily for me but were a pain getting to clip back in place correctly.

    Make sure you have the front clipped on securely before screwing the case back together otherwise the lid will not close properly.

    Nicolas - Contestar

    I have taken apart quite a few laptops but this is my first Mac. This confirms my statements, to anyone that will listen, that these are the most "exquisite" machines ever produced. I just performed these HDD Replacement steps and with appropriate fear and trepidation popped the clips off. It would have been very helpful if someone had mentioned that they come straight up. I wasn't sure so I wiggled and (carefully) pried with the spudger until one of them went "POP". The credit card idea was helpful but my card was pretty soft so I didn't dare use it with too much force. When I got the top cover loose I just leaned it back against the screen so as not to take a chance on damaging the cable. Reassembly was according to the notes, but again the spudger was perfect if inserted into the drive slot (careful on the felt!) to support the base of the clips. Thanks to all for the notes. BTW; Prayer helps!

    mikedotten331 - Contestar

    There is a fifth plastic clip between the IR sensor and the screw hole. (ie. 1 cm left of the IR sensor)

    Maarten Van Coile - Contestar

    On the top of the case mark the center of each of the four clips that are over the CD slot and the one clip to the left of the latch with a pencil. When re-installing the top case apply pressure over the clip to the left of the latch until you hear a snap. For the four clips over the CD slot, upend the entire case. Then insert the flat end of the spudger into the CD slot under the center of each clip. Apply pressure from the top of the case while providing support with the spudger in the CD slot until the clip snaps in. This will minimize the chances of bending the CD slot which would prevent CDs from ejecting.

    danno - Contestar

    Take care reassembling new the DVD drive. It's easy to bend the top piece of metal down (the one that engages the clips) and your DVD can get stuck occasional ejecting. Very annoying. Maybe give it a little prophylactic bend upward. I placed a blunt letter opener in the slot and torqued it, while applying downward pressure from the top deck... This allowed the clips to engage nicely without bending this piece down.

    davidkkim - Contestar

    I use the iSesamo tool to loose the clips, its a very good tool for this and many other things (I don´t work for iSesamo or iFixit hehe).

    araujogac - Contestar

    i've used both of my inch nails, it works fine as well. no trouble to report.

    cnoblemasson - Contestar

    i used a pry tool i had left over from replacing the screen on my iphone, any flat stiff item, like a credit card would work. watch the youtube video linked above, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv..., skip ahead in the video to 4:57 where you see her use a pry tool. I had no problem separating and reassembling this section. Only issue i had was the two screws in the battery area. Only one of them would grab, so I left the other one out.

    owenmhv - Contestar

    Here is an additional video showing how to remove the cables for both the left and right fans. At time 2:00 in the video he starts to work on the left fan. This video will help prevent you from attempting to detach the cables incorrectly.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apn3j3mAR...

    owenmhv - Contestar

    I've opened these up many, many times, and by far the easiest method I have found to disengage the front clips is as follows:

    Lift up the top case by the rear corners near the hinge, keep lifting so the top case is tilting towards you. You will feel some resistance, but keep lifting and you will hear the clips disengage with a 'snap'. Doing it this way should not bend the top case metal or loosen the spacing between the top case metal and plastic trim. The clips will not break, they will still engage when you put the top case back on.

    It basically takes me 5 or 10 seconds to take off the top case now, and the case goes back on nice and tight as before.

    YMMV and all that, but that's my experience.

    madmaxmedia - Contestar

    Thank you for all the advance warnings, I had no issues with replacing the case. It just snapped into place with a little help from the spudger.

    acuella - Contestar

    You're welcome! I was the one who added the spudger tips, as I had a devil of a time making the DVD drive clips snap back into place without one when I followed this guide.

    CaptFrost -

    Hello,

    I didn't have much problems reassembling the MacBook. Thanks a lot!

    For the hard reassembly part with the clips: I pushed quite hard with both thumbs directly over the place where the clips are. You need to figure out exactly where they are, but it worked well.

    I repeat it to make it clear: I pushed from the top on the location under which the clip sat, with two thumbs after having checked that the lid was well in place.

    My tools were one spudger and a basic tech toolkit from iFixit.

    Thanks a lot!

    momogingins - Contestar

    I had not problem easing GENTLY the top case from the computer even around the DVD but I didn't understand how easy it was to disconnect the top case from the mother board. TAKE CARE HERE. It will make reassembly much easier it YOU get to disconnect the plug. See my note on step nine

    reb - Contestar

    • Desconecta el el cable plano del trackpad y del teclado de la placa lógica, retirando la cinta según sea necesario.

    • Nota: Es posible reemplazar el disco duro sin desconectar el teclado del chasis, pero deberá mantenerse en posición vertical para mantenerlo alejado, al mismo tiempo que permite a ambas manos trabajar en la extracción de la unidad.

    • Ten cuidado al retirar el cable plano del teclado-trackpad para asegurarse de que la parte posterior de la carcasa superior esté desenganchada del área cerca de la bisagra. Es fácil doblar accidentalmente los receptores de tornillo a cada lado del teclado.

    • Retira la carcasa superior.

    If you does not have the spudger, use the Dremel to file a wooden piece

    (Chinese stick maybe) to transform in a spatula. Works fine for me

    ColmillodeChile - Contestar

    If you don't have the magic "spudger," try using a plastic (eating) knife.

    jpkjpkjpk - Contestar

    I read that you can actually also use the corner of a credit card. I didn't have a spudger and this worked perfectly for me. If you hold the card quite close to the corner and it has just the right amount of flex.

    David - Contestar

    You may be able to unplug the ribbon connector by lifting each end of the tape.

    MrSafety - Contestar

    Where can I get the cable from step 9 above?

    just broke it!

    Derry Manley - Contestar

    That cable is attached to the upper case. It can be found here for the A1226 and here for the A1260.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    To unplug the cable, pull the black connector straight up from the logic board.

    Robert MacLeay - Contestar

    These are instructions for the right Fan. Step 9 mentions the hard drive not the right fan.

    karen - Contestar

    I didn`t need to unplugged the cable to change the right fan. As Karen wrote above, it is for a fan to change not necessary.

    cnoblemasson - Contestar

    I chose not to disconnect this ribbon cable. I used a chopstick to prop open the front panel; just gently place in lower right corned of case and upper right corner inside the top panel. Saves the risk of disconnecting.

    jimmora - Contestar

    I didn't look well before the plug connecting top case to motherboard (see my note in step 8). When it came time for assembly it took a while for me to figure out when the plug connected in the motherboard. Take care on step 8 so that YOU have to make the disconnection in step 9. Then reassembly on this step will be much easier.

    reb - Contestar

    Step 9, 2007 Mac Book Pro right fan replacement. It’s not necessary to disengage the keyboard ribbon, you can just tilt the upper shell back and support it against the screen. Be sure not to put tension on the ribbon and to check that the ribbon “plug” is seated securely on the base before reinstalling the top shell.

    These instructions were really great. For $15 I got a used fan off eBay and a Torx T6 driver and Phillips 00 driver from the hardware store. Thanks also for the comment about marking where the plastic clips are by the DVD and IR slot with pencil. When reassembling I slotted a piece of wood (kebab skewer) into the DVD slot and pressed down on the pencil mark with the eraser end of the pencil.

    My 10 year old MacBook Pro is going strong. Thanks for these very much. It was fun to do as well.

    Kirsten - Contestar

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar de la placa lógica el cable plano naranja de la SuperDrive, retirando la cinta según sea necesario.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los 4 tornillos siguientes:

      • Dos tornillos Phillips plateados de 3.3 mm a cada lado del SuperDrive.

      • Un tornillo plateado Torx T6 de 4,7 mm de la esquina superior izquierda de la unidad.

      • Un tornillo negro Phillips de 6,2 mm en la esquina superior derecha de la unidad.

    • Levanta la unidad óptica hacia arriba y fuera del ordenador.

    The bent metal clip on the right hand side can make the drive seem stuck, even once all 4 screws are removed. You can tilt the drive forward and gently wiggle it up and down to see the clip coming out, and pull by the clip to remove the drive.

    Matt Gorbet - Contestar

    • Desconectar los conectores del disco duro y de la ExpressCard del lado izquierdo de la placa lógica.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Desconecta de la placa lógica los cables de la iSight y de datos de la pantalla deslizando los cables fuera de sus conectores, quitando la cinta según sea necesario.

    Where are the images for step 13, Step 15 and Step 18?

    Without them it makes the rest of the guide useless

    werbinik - Contestar

    For the cable on the right, about 1/2" ribbon cable, you have to slide the black bar near the screen back toward the screen to get the cable out safely.

    Kate Clair - Contestar

    for that little tiny connector on the left: look carefully at it and you will see a line running down it, creating a backward C on the right. You have to gently get the smudge tool it at the bottom left and angle it a bit, this is where it will come apart.

    Kate Clair - Contestar

    • Desconecta los ocho conectores indicados colocando un spudger debajo de cada uno y levantándolos.

    • Ten cuidado al desconectar algunos de los conectores más pequeños. Un golpe fuerte con el spudger puede romperlos accidentalmente de la placa lógica.

    i managed to break the connectors for the left side ambient light sensor and the right side thermal sensor while attempting this step, i was trying to remove the logic board in order to attempt to reflow the gfx chip as my laptop has been dead with that issue for a year or two, will it run when i put it back together without these?

    Jack Davidson - Contestar

    I also learned the hard way that you should not pop off the entire connector. The connector is a U-shaped holder (should remain attached to circuit board) and the piece with the wires that snaps into that holder. You may want to try using tweezers to hold the U-shaped piece down while slowly pry the wires and its piece out.

    mstreich - Contestar

    Its important that you DO NOT pry from the side opposite of the cable, as that is what will pull the connector off of the motherboard. If you look very carefully, the cable connector has the word "PUSH". If you pry from the cable side and gently lift the connector directly upward, it should disconnect smoothly.

    In fact, the word "pry" is very misleading...

    Liz Paglione - Contestar

    A gentle twisting motion of the flat end of the spudger seemed to work best.

    Liz Paglione - Contestar

    When reassembling be sure not to bury any of the various connector wires under the logic board.

    pprod - Contestar

    • Retira el parachoques de espuma de la parte superior de la bisagra derecha de la pantalla.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira el tornillo plateado Torx T6 de 9,5 mm que fija la toma de tierra en el cable de datos de la pantalla a la carcasa.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira el único tornillo negro Torx T6 de 6 mm que asegura la parte superior de la placa lógica a la carcasa superior.

    This is a torc6 screw not philips

    james2m - Contestar

    I've done this operation twice, and it was missing from my computer both times....

    Matt Gorbet -

    • Despega la cinta naranja Kapton que fija el cable del sensor térmico derecho a la placa lógica.

    right thermal sensor? I think it should be the Middle Thermal Sensor??

    PC Doc - Contestar

    • Retira los siguientes 15 tornillos:

      • Un tornillo Phillips negro de 4,4 mm a la derecha de la ranura de la ram.

      • Ocho tornillos plateados Torx T6 de 4,7 mm que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa inferior.

        • Si dejas los cinco tornillos anaranjados superiores en su lugar, los disipadores de calor/tubos salen sin esfuerzo, todavía montados en la placa principal. De esta forma, se conservará su conexión térmica y no tendrás que volver a aplicar la pasta térmica siguiendo las instrucciones de los dos pasos siguientes.

      • Un tornillo negro Torx T6 de 6.2 mm en el lado derecho del ventilador izquierdo.

      • Cinco tornillos plateados Torx T6 de 9,4 mm que aseguran los ventiladores izquierdo y derecho.

    The orange screws actually just secure the heat synch to the board, not the board to the case. You can leave them in as mentioned in the next step.

    Dave Bates - Contestar

    So let me get this straight, if you leave the upper 5 orange screws in, the heatsinks remain attached to the logic board? Does this mean that I won't need to apply new thermal paste in the proceeding steps?

    evankirsh -

    If you leave the upper 5 orange screws on, the heatsink/pipes come out effortlessly, still mounted onto the main board. That way the thermal connections are retained.

    Mike Matthias - Contestar

    • Mantén la placa lógica hacia abajo con una mano y usa tu otra mano para levantar el ventilador izquierdo de su alojamiento. Hay una cinta negra que asegura el ventilador izquierdo al disipador de calor. Con cuidado, retira esta cinta del disipador de calor mientras levantas el ventilador izquierdo.

    • Coloca el ventilador izquierdo sobre la tarjeta Airport. No es necesario quitar el ventilador del ordenador por completo.

    • Levanta el ventilador derecho y despega cuidadosamente la cinta que asegura el ventilador al disipador de calor a medida que avanzas.

    • Retira el ventilador derecho de la computadora.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Levanta el lado izquierdo de la placa lógica y desconecta el cable de alimentación gris y negro de la parte inferior de la placa.

      • Tira del conector del cable de alimentación en paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    • Sujeta la placa lógica por el lado izquierdo y en la sección delgada, y gira la placa lógica fuera de la carcasa inferior.

    • Si separaste el disipador térmico de la placa base dos pasos más arriba, tendrás que limpiar y reemplazar el antiguo compuesto térmico de los chips en la parte posterior de la placa lógica. Usa nuestra Guía de Aplicación de Pasta Térmica para preparar el procesador y las superficies del disipador de calor.

    The power cable slides out in the direction of the cable.

    chaphoto - Contestar

    • Levanta el disipador de calor hacia fuera del ordenador.

    • Despega el cable del sensor de luz ambiental izquierdo desde arriba del ventilador izquierdo, quitando la cinta según sea necesario.

    • Retira el ventilador izquierdo del ordenador.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Desconecta los dos cables de antena conectados a la tarjeta Airport Extreme.

    • Apple tuvo la amabilidad de incluir una etiqueta que muestra dónde se enchufa cada cable de antena de color: solo asegúrate de mirar esto cuando vuelvas a conectar los cables de antena.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los cables de la antena Airport desde su canal en el altavoz izquierdo.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retire el único tornillo negro T6 Torx ubicado justo encima de la tarjeta Airport Extreme.

    • Levanta el pequeño soporte de metal plateado y sácalo del ordenador.

    • Levanta la tarjeta Airport Extreme y deslízala fuera de su conector.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Despega el cable naranja del disco duro desde arriba de la caja de la ExpressCard.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Desconecta el cable del altavoz de la esquina de la placa izquierda de E/S.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Con cuidado, despega la cinta adhesiva negra que sujeta el cable del altavoz a lo largo del borde posterior de la carcasa inferior.

    • Continúa liberando el cable del altavoz de la cinta negra hasta que esté libre de las tres secciones de la cinta.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira el único tornillo negro T6 Torx que sujeta el altavoz derecho a la caja inferior.

    • Usa un spudger para levantar el altavoz derecho de la caja inferior.

    • Retira los altavoces del ordenador.

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    • Retira el único tornillo Phillips plateado que fija el protector de plástico transparente sobre el sensor de luz ambiental izquierdo.

    • Levanta el protector de plástico transparente del sensor de luz ambiental izquierdo.

    • Usa un spudger para sacar la placa del sensor de luz ambiental izquierda de su alojamiento en el altavoz izquierdo.

    • Los altavoces permanecen.

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Conclusión

Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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I noticed that there were not any actual instructions for the Thermal Paste application as recommended. Other than that the instructions were spot on! - Makes repairs much more affordable when I can do it myself. CERTAINLY invest in the spudger if you don't have one though. There really is no other way you can be careful enough when dealing with the logic board and connections.

One other tip - Print out the instructions - get some clear tape and then tape down each screw to the instructions. That will make it much easier to keep track of where everything is going as well as ensuring you don't lose any of the tiny little screws or get one in the wrong spot.

jnewsom22 - Contestar

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