Saltar al contenido principal

Repara tus cosas

Derecho a reparar



Use this guide to replace a broken hard drive cable. The hard drive cable also contains the sleep LED and the IR sensor.

  1. Remove the following ten screws:
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

    Does void the warranty?

    jfondeur - Contestar

    No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically:

    oakdragon12 - Contestar

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Contestar

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

    Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Contestar

    Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

    Seji the veggie -

    What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

    Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

    pmhparis -

    The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

    While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

    Dan -

    I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

    John Adam Wickliffe - Contestar

    Hey guys,

    this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

    I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

    renatumb - Contestar

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Contestar

    Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

    kschmesk - Contestar

    Totally agree!! I used the #00 screwhead for 7 out of the 10, but for the remaining tricky ones I used the #0 screwhead and it helped me out. I was so worried I would strip the tiny screw, but this comment saved me!

    Juliana Mak -

    I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

    Alex - Contestar

    The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

    . Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

    I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

    brian whittle - Contestar

    Hello MacWorld,

    Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

    wer 10/5/15

    tayseer999 - Contestar

    I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

    ForumHermit - Contestar

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Contestar

    on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

    Maximilian Klotz - Contestar

    I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

    gilded yak - Contestar

    Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

    Jack - Contestar

    I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

    Michael Wilkens -

    I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.

    otetz -

    Same here… I could not notice hte difference. Anyone at iFix would like to comment?

    LDS -

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Contestar

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

    Stephen Smith - Contestar

    A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

    Wilder Torres - Contestar

    Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

    airshack - Contestar

    when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

    this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

    Matt - Contestar

    It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

    Luca Giancarli - Contestar

    If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.

    Raymond Ives -

    The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

    Don Cely - Contestar

    Two screw types:


    Shouldered Unshouldered






    El Crashitan - Contestar

    If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

    Patrick Langvardt - Contestar

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Contestar

    I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)

    Javier Campos Delgado - Contestar

    WIll this card be good with MacBookPro 17 inch 2011

    Zafar Ali - Contestar

    I just followed this guide and it really helped me install a replacement cable and a new Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD in my aging MacBook Pro 13 A1278 MID 2012. It’s performing like a new machine now! The guide worked fine, but I’m curious why this HD cable costs €45 on Ifixit’s webshop, and only €13 on (I live in Europe)? The Amazon purchase also included two screwdrivers and a spudger.

    Jeff Baker - Contestar

    I found out that one way to reduce the chance to loose screws is to leave them in their holes of the lower case right after unscrewing them. In fact, you can put the lower case back in place with all but one screws in place. The only one that I ever needed to put apart was the long one at the top right in the picture (the one that goes close to the display data cable underneath the lower case). Hope this help others! and you stop wondering about shouldered versus not shouldered short (3.5mm) ones :-)

    LDS - Contestar

    For a MBP 2011, I’m not able to unscrew one of the 14.4 mm in the lower back. Can I know how can I get that done?. Thank you..

    Rajesh Rajasekharan - Contestar

  2. Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent. Remove the lower case.
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

    If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

    Thanks for your help.

    Mikell - Contestar

    bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

    Shi Feng - Contestar

    Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

    Claire Rapp -

    Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

    Volkan Ogul - Contestar

  3. Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Contestar

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Sooo the track pad is under the kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

    stiknrudder -

    This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

    Steven Layton - Contestar

    My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

    Diego Hernandes -

    Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

    stiknrudder -

    Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

    ausmkv - Contestar

    wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

    Peter - Contestar

    I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

    John - Contestar

    simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

    toiu - Contestar

    What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

    Anrothan -

    Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

    fasthans - Contestar

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Contestar

    Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

    MacProUser - Contestar

    Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

    Simon Mundy - Contestar

    I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

    Zeerachen - Contestar

    Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

    Ed Oliver - Contestar

    DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

    Bradley Marks - Contestar

    Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

    No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

    nichoferr - Contestar

    Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

    Mfernandez - Contestar

    This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

    Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

    BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

    wassberg -

    Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

    Stephen Smith - Contestar

    I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

    Raymond Rinaldi - Contestar

    Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

    Marijke de Vries - Contestar

    The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static.

    B T - Contestar

    I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

    airshack - Contestar


    Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

    Myzcio - Contestar

    I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro 13in and did not disconnect the power from the battery. I upgraded from 4gb to 16gb and worked perfectly. Just make sure to power it down and be gentle. It was super easy and quick, and I feel a significant boost in performance. Cant wait to install my 1TB SSD Samsung 860 next!

    Rock Hash - Contestar

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Contestar

    u can use 16GB DDR3 @ 1600mhz. intel says 16 @ 1333, and apple 8.

    apple will solder even the folders to the background for to sell you the “open” or “move to the trash” command. if the battery is not removable, its not a casuality…. u can be sure

    Oscar Sanchez - Contestar

    Would draining the battery (by using the machine until it runs out of power) do the trick for this? Seems it would be less risky than potentially damaging the connector/cable during disconnection for example.

    moshimoshi - Contestar

    Cannot install any os on new ssd ? Mac is reading it.. please help

    robertbruen - Contestar

  4. Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

    Diego Hernandes - Contestar

    The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

    The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

    One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

    Great guides. Thanks!

    timgunkel - Contestar

    Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

    Sal Ergrapes - Contestar

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Contestar

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

    Ian Thal - Contestar

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Contestar

    does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

    Darren Rose - Contestar

    Très bonnes explications. Concernant le débranchement de la batterie, faute de “smudger”, on peut le faire tout doucement avec le bout des ongles (s’ils ne sont pas coupés trop à ras, LOL), et surtout ne pas tenter de le faire d’un coup: il faut y aller tiers de mm par tiers de mm. Le retrait des anciennes mémoires n’est pas facile non plus, car on a très peu de place pour manœuvrer, là encore il faut y aller petit à petit, avec les plus grandes précautions! La barrette située le plus profond doit être soulevée assez fortement dans sa partie libre pour pouvoir être extraite de son étroite cuvette et ce n’est pas simple. Le remontage est nettement plus simple que le démontage. Il faut surtout faire très attention à ne pas confondre les petites vis à épaulement avec celles qui n’en ont pas. Je conseille, avant de remettre le couvercle de fond du Mac, de faire un essai de redémarrage pendant une minute ou deux pour bien voir si tout est OK.

    Lionel Colbere - Contestar

  5. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

    • These screws will remain attached to the hard drive bracket.

    These were Philips #0 screws in my computer.

    Church Tucker - Contestar

    Yup I think should be #0. Fits better.

    ezkay -

    FYI my used Mac didn’t have the bracket or screws. 3D printed the bracket someone did (it’s on Thingiverse), M2x10mm screws were short but worked.

    sbierly - Contestar

  6. El kit de herramientas esencial

    Las herramientas más útiles en nuestro kit más compacto.

    Compra ahora

    El kit de herramientas esencial

    Las herramientas más útiles en nuestro kit más compacto.

    Compra ahora
  7. Remove the hard drive bracket.
    • Remove the hard drive bracket.

    • The hard drive bracket may be firmly seated against the upper case.

    Don't miss this step: I almost did and of course couldn't get the disk out until I looked at the video !

    francistasset - Contestar

  8. Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case.
    • Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case.

    • Don't try to completely remove the hard drive just yet. It is still attached to the hard drive cable.

  9. Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive. Remove the hard drive.
    • Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive.

    • Remove the hard drive.

    The hard drive cable is a recalled part on these machines. You may need to replace it before your drive will be read correctly. The Apple Store will replace your cable for free if it's problematic.

    Eric March - Contestar

  10. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  11. Remove the following four screws:
    • Remove the following four screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 9.7 mm Phillips screws

    I'm missing the two 3mm Phillips screws and need to buy some. Are they 3mm long or is it the diameter or both? If you can copy a link with the right screws to buy that would be really helpful! Thanks a lot.

    Tartine - Contestar

    I'm finding that it's pretty much impossible to remove the two 3mm screws holding the cable down. Any hints on that?

    Andrew Huey - Contestar

    is there anywhere i could buy another set of the screws that hold down the hdd cable? i think mine is broken and i could get it out of it's socket, any information about the screw specs is very appreciated, thanks

    Andy Wijaya - Contestar

    Is there a special technique to "bend" the mid-attachment of the replacement cable into place? The cable is straight and I don't want to use force or a tool to bend it down over the edge. The 3mm screws won't go in (as they are pretty short), as long as the holes of the cables are right above the screwholes of the macbook. Thanks a lot in advance.

    Thomas Lange - Contestar

    Andrew Huey & Andy Wijaya, how did y'all take out the two 3mm Phillips screws? I stripped mine. I've tried the rubber band, doesn't work. I'd rather not try the super glue. This is all I have left to take out. Please help; thank you. God bless (1 Corinthians 15:1-4 KJB)!

    Glenda - Contestar

    I also would like to know where to buy a new set of the 3mm screws, anyone?

    Nick Lauritzen - Contestar

    I have a mid-2009 MBP. Removing the 3mm screws was nearly impossible. I read that Apple uses loctite glue to secure the screws. Someone recommended touching the hot tip of a glue gun (minus the glue, of course) to the screw head. Doing so heats the screw and loosens the loctite. It worked well for the first one, I rushed the second and striped it so badly that I had to use a drill to bust up the screw head. I didn’t have a bit small enough to breakup the entire the screw, but I was able to pulverize the head so that the mounting surface was flat, which enabled me to install the new cable. At the moment, my cable is held in on that side by just the one screw and the weight of the hard drive. I’d like to replace the missing 3mm screw but I’d have to drill out the rest of the broken screw to have hole to put it in. Not exactly looking forward to that….perhaps if I just use some electrical tape to secure it down? On the upside, the new cable is working and my mac is up and running again.


    jojojo5683 - Contestar

    Replacement screws can be bought on Amazon - search 3mm laptop computer screw kit

    jojojo5683 - Contestar

  12. Carefully peel up the thin IR sensor/sleep LED ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Carefully peel up the thin IR sensor/sleep LED ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  13. Pull the front hard drive bracket containing the IR sensor/sleep LED away from the front edge of the upper case.
    • Pull the front hard drive bracket containing the IR sensor/sleep LED away from the front edge of the upper case.

  14. Remove the hard drive cable.
    • Remove the hard drive cable.

    • Your replacement part may come with several adhesive foam bumpers. These are to ensure a snug fit of both bracket and hard drive. Apply only as needed.

    The replacement cable comes without the sleep led attached. Thus you have to remove the flat cable of the sleep led from the socket of the old hd cable. Take your fingernail and lift the side of the socket opposite to the cable. It's really tiny! Afterwards insert the new cable and push gently on the part lifted up before.

    Skyynet - Contestar

    Hi, I feel like this article is missing an important step at the end. How do I replace the new IR sensor/sleep LED with the old one that is still attached to the front hard drive bracket? I see Skyynet answered this but it is still nor clear. Pictures would be nice. Thanks!

    Reece - Contestar

    You just gently pull out the old cable and insert the new cable into the small plug as skyynet suggested. It all seems to smoothly realign and guide itself.. you don't have to do much work to get things to affix.

    ydlwhite -

    Hi. What is the purpose of the 5 black rubber pads that are shipped with the cable kit?

    coffeenow - Contestar

    Step 13 has the note: "Your replacement part may come with several adhesive foam bumpers. These are to ensure a snug fit of both bracket and hard drive. Apply only as needed." - This would be if the drive width had a gap and allowed it to move "sideways" in and out of the torx post holes. I didn't need them.

    prall -

    it's not clear whether the new cable should come with a new bracket or the old one is also fine ? here in europe most hdd cables ship without bracket

    natalie - Contestar

    Yes, this was fiddly and it needs extra photos. I only got this done with the aid of a magnifying glass.

    John Walker - Contestar

    Does it matter if I accidentally folded the cable? I was trying to replace the harddrive and my cat jumped on me. There is an obvious fold line on the cable but the harddrive is still readable and everything seems to be fine. Do I need to replace the cable?

    John - Contestar

  15. Your replacement part may or may not come with the front (sensor) bracket. If it does not, you'll need to transfer it to your new cable. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the "lever" of the ZIF connector (left side in first photo) on the hard drive cable. The connector does not come off, see next instruction. Gently pull the yellow sensor bracket cable out of the ZIF connector (to the right, in the second photo).
    • Your replacement part may or may not come with the front (sensor) bracket. If it does not, you'll need to transfer it to your new cable.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the "lever" of the ZIF connector (left side in first photo) on the hard drive cable. The connector does not come off, see next instruction.

    • Gently pull the yellow sensor bracket cable out of the ZIF connector (to the right, in the second photo).

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable up off the sensor bracket to which it is adhered.

    • Remove the adhesive backing from your new hard drive cable, stick it onto the sensor bracket, and connect the sensor bracket cable.

    • Many fixers cover the length of the thicker cable in the pair with sections of electrical tape on both sides because it can rub the tiny ridges inside the aluminum case causing a short to the case itself or simply breaking the connection.

    This section is backwards, do not try to remove the IR sensor ZIF connector until you have removed the hard drive cable gently from the bracket as @Skyynet says above, by using a "fingernail (or the spudger) and lift the side of the socket opposite to the cable" gently, it's glued on. Then you can wiggle the ZIF connector off of the hard drive cable with your fingers.

    Mark Mikofski - Contestar

    My apologies, I was incorrect in my previous comment. The ZIF connector is a little flap on the hard drive cable that can be opened by flipping it up. This makes extracting the IR sensor easier. Removing the hard drive cable from the bracket may also make removing the IR sensor from the ZIF connector, but only if you've opened the flap. The new cable should already have the flap of the ZIF connector open, so make sure to close it. But does anyone know how you can tell if the IR sensor is connected? It's so small it's hard to tell if it can slide in further.

    Mark Mikofski - Contestar

    Also note there are 3 photos in this step, you can view them by hovering over each one. Click to enlarge.

    Mark Mikofski - Contestar

    Very nice set of close up photos of the hard drive cable IR sensor ZIF connectory are here:

    Mark Mikofski - Contestar

    I would recommend using tweezers that come with the ifixit tool kit to properly insert the sensor bracket cable back into the sensor bracket. I had trouble with my computer in which the solution was that this step was not executed properly in my repair of the hard drive cable installation. I encourage everyone to make sure the bracket is fully and properly put back in the bracket otherwise the hard drive will appear to malfunction.

    chasethomas642 - Contestar

    I have replaced my cable and my hard drive is now functioning normally again. Unfortunately, the sleeping LED is no longer functioning. I've removed the HD once again and realized the lever wasn't down on the ZIF connector. I pushed it down and put the bracket back into place. Unfortunately, the LED is still not working. I am assuming the connector is either not far enough inside, or the LED on my new cable is broken. I am however reluctant to open everything up again but I am afraid I will break something on the connector, eventually. Am I risking any missing functionality on my Mac by not fixing the sleeping LED? Will my Mac/HD still fall asleep, do Bluetooth devices still work?

    Joff19 - Contestar

    Thank you, it worked fine.The connection to the LED is very hard using my fat fingers...

    alfredovogel - Contestar

    Thanks for this - yes, the final little detail about getting the yellow ribbon in is tricky indeed, I feared I’d bend it too many times and end up breaking it. Also, as there is no way to know if it’s placed far enough in, a bit of guess work. But, 3 mins to re-assemble, and hit power - booted up like immediately, perfect. Cheers - Pat

    Patrick Sgro - Contestar

    Great thumbs up for very hi-res photos for this section. This thing was THE hardest in this guide. If you haven’t got courage to do this, just buy the one with bracket. Even if you have - zoom into the picture. It will save the day.

    If you have hard time putting the cable back into the ZIF connector, try gently pushing the cable down against the bracket while pushing it into the connector. Simply pushing the cable into the connector doesn’t seem to work well.

    Collapsed PLUG - Contestar

    Super good guide, I saved my old MacBook Pro 2012 from blank screen.

    Simba Z - Contestar

    I just did this step and I’m concerned I might have bent the little yellow cable or not seated it far enough into the connector. More will be revealed.

    My suggestion might be to re-insert the cable before sticking the hard drive back onto the bracket. It might provide more flexibility and a better angle at getting the sleep LED cable back in the ZIF connector.

    This is just for the sleep LED? and the IR sensor? right so if we don’t care about the LED for sleeping hard drive and never use the IR sensor then it doesn’t matter, right?

    Adam Hechler - Contestar

    Just replaced this and saved my mac and me from purchasing all new cloud software ! THANK YOU!

    adesign101 - Contestar

    Good guide, great, thanks! It simply works like a charm.

    I’d extend Adam’s suggestion: insert the LED cable into the connector before glueing the connector plate onto the holder. This way you can use both hands, find the correct angle and fiddle the little thingy into place. If you do it behind a magnifying glass it’s even easier.

    Grix - Contestar

    Thanks for this useful guide that enabled me to do this job myself. I found the last step was the trickiest one, so much so that even though I was careful I managed to break the ZIF connector as I was trying to put it back in after also having some difficulty figuring out how to disconnect it. Part of the problem was that I stuck the new cable to the base of the holder before I tried to plug the ZIFF connector back in and did not manage at first attempt to get it close enough to the white housing to be easily within reach of the ZIFF connector that I think is why it broke when I tried to put it back in. It was not a nice surprise but fortunately when I completed the reassembly the hard disk started working again with no problems that was my reason for changing the cable, so losing an LED light and some sleep (pun intended) was worthwhile.

    hundredmeterskoven - Contestar

    Fantastic guide!  This was my first foray into any computer, and now my MacBook Pro is good as new.   Many, MANY thanks!!!

    Richard Belcher - Contestar

    Hi everyone, I followed all the steps, everything is ok but the LED does not work and not even the closing sensor. What else can I do?

    riumalab - Contestar

    How to tape the Kable? Only where the “sharp” aluminum edges are, or everywhere. A picture would be helpful.

    If only the aluminum edges are the problem, would it be an option to tape the edges, not the cable itself?

    Moritz Pfeil - Contestar

    I agree, please provide pictures for that one!

    Phil Wagner -

    I don't know If you guys are still looking for one but I am suddenly finding myself in this predicament and I ran across a YouTube video.

    ?v= Amg5w0rlwDo

    imark7777777 -

    My replacement cable arrived today, and sadly, it doesn’t seem to be working. If I have it plugged into the motherboard the computer won’t even start up; with the old, faulty cable plugged in the computer starts. Any suggestions for things to try?

    clovell - Contestar

    silly suggestion, but hey just in case, did you check the battery was fully plugged before putting the lid back on?

    Gustavo Gomez - Contestar


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

588 personas más completaron esta guía.


iFixit Miembro de iFixit


131 Miembros

13,426 Guías creadas

Thank you Ifixit and Andrew "Optimus" Goldberg, the parts and tools arrived today i went to the shop to buy lunch when i had returned (15 mins later) my Husband had replaced the part (hdd cable) and my Macbook pro is super speedy again. Nice repair guide thank you i doubt i can say thank you enough.

carynturner - Contestar

After many hours of trying to get my SSD drive to work, I read elsewhere that other users had issues with the HD cable that came with the laptop. From when I opened the envelope until my SSD booted was less than 30 minutes. If you have the right tools this is an easy fix. Just keep in mind that there is adhesive on the cable that goes to the bracket -- don't forget to peel off the paper backing and line it up correctly.

mbj - Contestar

Hello, I have a mid 2009 Macbook pro 13. I have bought a hard disk cable that looks almost the same as the original one except for greater width and shorter length. I guess that this new cable fits the 2012 model, SO YOU MAY HAVE TO UPDATE THE GUIDE accordingly.

Electrically the wider cable also works on the mid 2009 model (at least for disk access) though it does not fit mechanically.

My friends be careful when you buy this part.

palbarede - Contestar

thanks, Ifixit! Like many, my laptop developed the flashing question mark with startup even though when I removed the drive and put in external enclosure it worked perfectly, and putting in a different HD with a good system install on it also failed. thankfully I found out about the ribbon cable issue with a web search. The part fit perfectly and was easy to install, took about 10 minutes and I was up and running again.

Larry Schwartz

1schwartzmd - Contestar

Thank you so much for this guide! My MacBook pro works! I had the folder of death on my screen so I just swapped out the ribbon and now it turns on. Easy fix and saved a lot of money. EASY TO DO!!!!

Landon - Contestar I can identify the cable should I buy? thank you

Andrey - Contestar

Lookup your Mac's serial number on a site like this and make a note of the model number (for example, A1278). Then search eBay, Amazon for "Macbook hard drive cable A1278"

foragingferret -

I purchased the HDD cable with the bracket, so my installation was a breeze. Remove the old cable and install the new one. Four screws and done. Here was my problem with the MacBook Pro 13 Mid-2012. Bought the i7 model off Craigslist from a student. Seller said the hard drive went bad and she replaced it with a smaller 250GB drive. I thought no big deal because I was going to install an SSD anyway. I bought a 500GB SSD and it would not boot. Rapidly flashing Apple, No sign, and Folder with question mark. The drive booted fine with an external USB case. 750GB drive would not even recognize in the MacBook. Went to Apple and they would not touch it since it had a third-party drive installed, but they suggested replacing the cable since everything else worked. Sure enough, the HDD cable was bad and the replacement cable works perfectly! The 500GB SSD is recognized and boots OS X. Easy fix. So if your hard drive appears bad, check it first, and then determine if the cable is bad.

Peter Hillman - Contestar

I just bought a replacement 1TB SSD/hybrid drive from because the stock 500GB HDD "failed." The 2012 MBP would not read the new drive internally but booted just fine from the new drive on external USB. Replaced the cable, new replacement drive still wouldn't show up in Disk Utility on the internal bus but the original drive works just fine. I put the new drive into the external silicone enclosure and use it for Time Machine backups.

Bob -

It is important to note that the replacement cable ordered from may be of subtly different size from the OEM cable removed from MBP 2012. However the new drive did fit into the drive bay and the lower external case fit without any screw adjustments. Have faith and it should work out just fine.

Bob - Contestar

Pretty easy! However, watch that sleep sensor/ribbon cable. Pretty easy to damage that during the fiddling process of removing it. Also, the adhesive on the replacement cable may still have on it seems to arrive melted via the shipping process. So make sure it hasn't gotten on anything else. Initial symptoms of the HDD cable failure were: slow indexing speeds, spotlight wasn't working, displaying directory listings were slow, complete OSX panics, OSX freezing, HDD folder appearing with question mark on boot. Disk Utility would randomly see the HDD but anything mounted externally it had no problem.

seanakrinsky - Contestar

Where do I find a new ribbon cable..i damaged mine removing it ??? Ugh

cmworms -

I have a MacBook Pro 13" Mid 2012. My hard drive is dead and happy to follow the instructions. Which hard drive do you recommend to buy?

sofiagalligani - Contestar

I had the question mark of doom for a while on boot up until I finally came across ifixit. This guide has been extraordinarily helpful. It will save you a lot of money on repairs. Thanks iFixit for having all of the necessary resources to keep my macbook running! :D

brenmarsh - Contestar

Very helpful tutorial, guided me through the replacement process of the cable in my MacBook 13" Mid 2012.

icecore - Contestar

Fixed my mid-2012 Unibody MacbookPro 13" with this guide and with the cable bought from iFixit. Perfect shipping and quality.

Feels good not to be dependent of a (main) external hard drive anymore !

Dwf Pierre - Contestar

My laptop crashed and could not find its own hard drive. Through process of elimination I figured it was the hard drive cable. Bought the part, replaced it, and the computer booted up by itself and everything was how I left it! Thanks!

Kengo Nagaoka - Contestar

Fantastic guide. After some research to find the problem, I was able to remove the hard drive with this guide, test it externally and find that it is working fine. I was able to order the part from iFixit Europe and Bob's yer Uncle, fixarooney. Thanks iFixit, you're the best!

twitchy53 - Contestar

My 2012 pro was not booting with Sandisk ultra. Replacing the cable worked for me. Thanks for the guide.

Nikhil Sukumaran - Contestar


I have followed your guide to replace my cable and it works, thank you.

The problem is I just realise that my new cable is for 2011 macbook while I have mid 2012 macbook. Both are for A1278 but the model number is different. The cable actually works well, but I wonder if it might damage the harddisk or the computer at some point in the future? Please help

Thank you very much.

dennypriyatna - Contestar

Step 14: Note how far in the yellow tab of the sensor bracket cable goes into the ZIF connector before pulling it out. Reinserting was a little difficult, but looking at the photo at full size helped. When all the way in, there will be a line of gold running just in front of the connector. Overall, great instructions and photos. Thank you so much.

Sue Livingston - Contestar

After following these steps, my Macbook will not boot up and the power adapter blinks orange. I did some research on the issue and unplugged and then plugged back in the battery connector, but that still didn't fix it. I may not have got the IR sensor plugged in all the way. if that's the case, would that actually cause the Mac to not even boot up?

Eric Barrett - Contestar

bruuuuuuuuhhhhh, someone have anything on this?

sawydaman -

I bought the hard drive cable from Amazon ( I followed the steps and replaced the hard drive cable. However, when my computer could not turn on again.

I decided to put the original hard drive cable back in place (without the Hard Drive) and I could turn it on. I am running with dual HD, so with the main HD, my macbook boots from the HD that is in the optical drive place.

I suppose that the Hard Drive cable that I bought was bad, since I succeeded to put the original cable back in place.

However, does anyone know why the computer wouldn't turn on at all (no lights, no noise, nothing) ?

pauloau - Contestar

if i can boot a normal hdd with os x yosemite and start the computer but when i boot using ssd samsung 850 evo 120gb it show files missing using same os then i change back to normal hdd okay again .. whats that means? need help is it unibody problem?

Tod - Contestar

I have the same problem. Did you find a fix?

Kaladin -

Hi, I've established that I need to replace the HD cable but like a fool I haven't backed up my hard drive in a long while. Just wondering if there's any chance of my hard drive being accidentally erased or anything when I replace the cable? Or is that only if you're reinstalling the OS?

Alia Te Hira - Contestar

Thanks you for this excellent guide! This was the first time I did anything more involved than changing RAM so the guide was really helpful. As for many others, the problem was that I got the dreaded "question mark in a folder" image upon start up, indicating that the OS could not be found. I managed to make one recovery start-up to repair the hard drive but the problem persisted, I then found comments about the hard drive cable often being the cause of this problem and this article allowed me to buy a new one and install it. Easy and quick!

The cable I bought fit perfectly and had the IR sensor included. It is a MyArmor Replacement 923-0104 HDD Hard Drive Cable 821-2049-A With Bracket for MacBook Pro 13" A1278, £16 on

Also bought ACENIX® 3 Pcs Nylon Plastic Spudger for £4.

perstarrsjo - Contestar

Hello, I have a Macbook pro 2012 and am currently trying to diagnose whether my sata cable could be faulty or could it be the SSD firmware. I have a Samsung 850 Evo and a Sandisk Z400s and for some reason I can't format, partition, erase, or install the OS on either internally, which always results in an error. However, I am able to format them externally using a sata-to-usb adapter and is able to boot internally once the OS is installed externally. Btw the original Toshiba HDD that came with the laptop does not encounter these issues. Does anyone have any ideas what could be the problem? Thank you.

William - Contestar

Scratch what I said about install being able to install externally; it doesn't work either. I have to install the OS on my HDD then clone over to my SSD.

William -

Thanks for guide. Had a strange error with my computer suddenly not booting and showing me strange pictures. Internet recovery did now work and after checking with another disc and read here I could order a new cable and follow this guide. Seams to be quite a common problem but kind of easy to fix as long as you get the cable. Thanks!

johannesloefgren - Contestar

This is a great guide for replacing the hard drive cable. Thank you very much for posting it. With the right tools, its very easy to complete this. The only minor issue i faced was in folding the new hard drive cable. I couldn't do it perfectly because I was worried if I would harm the cable itself by folding too much. Including one more step to show how we can fold the new cable at right points would be nice. Thanks again.

Deepak Shivamurthy - Contestar

Last week, I lifted my MacBook Pro Mid 2012 solely by the front right corner. After that, all operations were incredibly slow and I got lots of spinning color wheels. When I tried to run First Aid on the SSD in Disk Utility, the drive would not even appear in the list of devices. When I checked the SSD's SMART details with ‘smartctl’, there was nothing wrong. Still, I opened up the Mac and swapped out the SSD for a spare known to be working well in another machine. The second SSD also failed to show up in Disk Utility. The hard drive cable appeared to be fine, but after reading the comments here and on other sites, I decided to replace the cable with a new one ordered from ifixit. With the new hard drive cable and the original SSD, my MacBook Pro is now back in business and disk access is fast again. Hooray! Thanks for the very clear instructions. Like the previous poster, I was afraid of damaging the new cable when bending it. I used the flat tip of a spudger to bend the cable.

Bill - Contestar

Hey iFixIt ordered the piece straight from here,

I think I did alright in reassembling everything back to the original after changing the cable, yet now my computer seems to continuosly reboot itself every second? won't turn on, very confused. I removed all the sensor tapes, I've gone back and forth a few times now, pls help

sawydaman - Contestar

Hi, do you know if this hard drive cable is the right one for my macbook ?

All I know is that it says model n° A1322 and serial number is C17J9W27DTY3

Thank You

John Collins - Contestar

Hellos guys, I have a MacBookPro (13-inch, MID 2012), and I had the same problem, today I decided to go to an apple store and they told me that on these macbook models it is very normal for this to happen, (Factory error), then his response was: "We changed it for a new one, it does not matter that you no longer have any guarantee of the product, and will have no cost." So I recommend that if your case, approach the nearest Genius Bar, and fix the problem in less than 15 minutes.

Best regards

oemrebfilm - Contestar

That works by replacing the SATA Cable for internal SSD drive. The SATA cable that came with my MBP 2013 mid 2012 was the culprit. It's possible it's not compatible for SSD. I recommend when upgrading to SSD, buy the internal SATA cable as well. OWC does not stock this cable. I got it at, $14. Problem sold!!! Thank you.

Mario - Contestar

Hi I have changed the part but my Mac is still stuck half way through the loading. What could be the problem ?

Niranth B - Contestar

This is a repair that Apple will do for free if you can get it to an authorized repair shop. Doesn't matter who has owned it or how old - it's a factory recall. I just did this for a friend - but not before trying an aftermarket cable (not the one from iFixit) which was intermittent.

Tim Smith - Contestar

cant find any information on a recall- by any chance do you have a URL?


len kearney -

great guide, but just so youguys know, this problem that you may be having was fixed for apple for free for me. Because it was the ribbon cable and only that, the repair was free. Cost me nothing. And no, I do not have applecare, this was covered because it falls under a different warranty category

dobsongolfer - Contestar

Nice job now is my time

Maurizio Manente - Contestar

Super easy to follow and took me far less time than estimated here (I also replaced the hard drive; didn't mess with trying to figure out if the drive itself or the cable was faulty, just replaced them both and now have a much larger capacity drive!) Made a system software installer on a flash drive using another computer and instructions from Apple and everything is working great now, whew!

bairandrea - Contestar

Thank you for the good instruction. Now the 6 year old MacBookPro (early 2011) of my sister recognizes the harddrive again and works fine!

Stefan Plank - Contestar

Dear Stefan,

I’m getting an error screen when I start my 2012 MacBook Pro. It has a circle with a slash in the middle. I’ve read this has to do with not recognizing the hard drive.

Did you had this same problem? Did replacing the Sata cable fix it for good?

Gabriel Evangelista -

You may have noticed that iFixit list 4 different Apple part numbers (923-0104, 923-0741, 821-1480-A, 821-2049-A) for the A1278 (mid-2012 MBP). Anyone the difference between these? Is any of them better for an SSHD (ie to handle the greater data speeds)? Thanks

A1278 - Contestar

Thanks for posting such clear instructions. Ifixit in Germany got the part to me in Paris in less than 48 hours and I got my MB Pro mid-2012 back up and running in 45 minutes.

James Wilson - Contestar

One thing I would add for anyone trying this now, is that you don’t need to spend money on a spudger. It can just as easily be done with the edge of a credit card. Hope that helps, great guide by the way OP! Used it twice now to fix 2 macs on the cheap. Appreciate your work!

David Lee - Contestar

I just did this project and I believe it worked! Instructions were great and it was not that hard. I can immediately tell there is improvement in speed.

Wayne Burton - Contestar

Excellent tutorial. but you need to add an age limit to it. This stuff is <XXXXX-rated, that is, not to be attempted upon by anyone older than 20. I’m 55, and this requires a vise, two very steady hands, and a steady magnifier with a light (preferably built-in). I’ve gotten so far as managing to pull it the ZIF, and then I had to toss in the towel. I can’t see that close, and I shake too much…

Giving Mac & all loose parts to able-bodied youngsters to fix today…

But otherwise, your tutorials rock! :D

Ciel Udbjørg - Contestar

Replaced- works as new


McGazz - Contestar

Thank you for the guide. So easy to follow and apply. Ordered the part from iFixit and received it within 3-4 business days. My daughter’s Macbook Pro back to super speed performance. Thank you guys!!!

Aleksander Pervaza - Contestar

Hi there,

I have a MacBook Pro 13 mid 2012 model. I recently replaced the hard drive cable and SuperDrive. Everything is physically in place, but the computer boots EXTREMELY slow, and often fails to boot. I was just wondering if anybody has any solutions to this problem.


Tim Becker - Contestar

Maybe there are some other sensor issues. Run asd for your model to know the problem. Asd-apple service diagnostics

Sajan Gurung -

I  Also have same problem. When I clone old hdd is (high sierra) to new Samsung 860 evo 500 GB SSD and Insert to MacBook Pro 2012 i5 2.5 GHz some time it works great but sometimes my mac stucks and does not respond. Now tell me which cable do I purchase for this purpose and is it compatible for my system.


This guide worked well for me but I agree with others that: -

1) A different method for disconnection the battery is needed. I broke the edge of mine doing as instructed.

2) Some explanation of the best way to fold or bend the new cable in place is needed.

This is extremely fidley. My closeup vision isn’t good so resorted to clamping my iPhone in place while using the Magnifier function with lamp on focussed on the job to enlarge what I was doing. I felt like a surgeon doing keyhole surgery :-)

Steven Korunic - Contestar

Merci beaucoup, cette réparation a été très efficace encore bravo

Didier Cugy - Contestar

I was lost trying to figure out the best way to bend the cable to fit into position. The dash lines printed on the cable gave me the “where” but no advice offered with the part or here, as to “how” . Did I miss something? I ended up damaging the cable trying to put the right angle bends in it required to fit it properly.

Paul Vivian - Contestar

Hi i was trying to replace a ssd from one macbook pro mid 2010 to another same macbook pro one booted up but the one with ssd did not boot, stays in question mark folder screen. How do i get it booted

Help please. Much appreciated thank you.


Dhiraj Gurung - Contestar

I was trying to replace my original HDD with a SSD (Samsung Evo 860 500Gb). I could boot up fine on the new SSD via USB (using a USB-SATA cable) but every time I tried to boot when the SSD was inside my computer (in the place of the original HDD), I couldn’t boot (forbidden sign appeared). I read on several forums it was a compatibility problem with the original SATA cable. I seemed strange to me but I decided to buy a new SATA cable via iFixit. I’ve just replaced the original SATA cable with the new one and now I can boot on the SSD without any problem !

Thank you very much for this tutorial, even if I still don’t understand why it doesn’t work with the original SATA cable ^^

Basile Amory - Contestar

I had to change the hard drive after trying to install a new SSD and it wouldn’t work. The SSD was only able to boot via USB. Now it can boot internally after I put in the new hard drive cable. My advice: Be careful with the connectors when putting in this new one, it is quite delicate.

Trieu Hoang - Contestar


is this work with 2nd hdd as well?

I mean I have ssd and an hdd in the optical bay which continuously eject itself, so that’s why I thought it needs a cable replacement.

Can I do the same with the optical bay hdd?

(mid 2012 MacBook pro)


zsombids - Contestar

I fixed my “Question Mark Folder of Death” using this hard drive cable and this guide. I am writing this comment from my repaired MacBook. Thanks a ton.

Justin Reinhart - Contestar

There seem to be different versions of the ribbon cable, visibly different at the screwholes - one is thinner with metal as screwholes, the other one completely black and the screwholes are more a part of the cable itself. Which one is newer / better / recommended?

thekryz - Contestar

Hi, thekryz! Metal-lined screwholes are generally supposed to be more rigid. However, personally I’d accept only a marginally higher price for that feature, since my cable had to be replaced twice in 8 years and the screwholes weren’t the problem in either case. Hope this helps.

Stefan Mayer -

Hi Andrew where can i find that little yellow cable connected to a little white box..the one your canle drive connects to and your suppose to be very careful with it…i apparently wasnt gentle enough…thanks Michelle

cmworms - Contestar

I didn't remove the yellow cable gently enough..can I replace? # on yellow ribbon cable states 1210…

cmworms - Contestar

Don't let me down Optimus!

cmworms - Contestar

Thank you for these instructions! I have been able to replace my hard drive, ram battery and now this hard drive cable on my husband’s laptop thanks to iFixit’s generous contributors!

However, in these instructions more detail was needed to explain the transfer of the front sensor bracket. Here is a video on youtube I found that does an excellent job. Go to 3:34. You have to be really careful with this part because it is very delicate:

Dr. J Pierre - Contestar

This is the second time I have done this repair on same computer. The first time it lasted 7 months. I noticed right before it broke for the second time, the laptop was very hot…I was not using it…lid was shut, but had been putting my CD collection in and the power cord was connected. Hope the new part lasts longer this time!

charles robertson - Contestar

Great tutorial, I forgot and jump the adhesive part so was surprised when try to get out the old conector, hate that I have to blend the new one, and always worried to fo very carefully. So I help me with the screws, at the end feel that was little bigger , but at the end the MacBook Pro 2012 works fine like always. I gonna miss these model in the future not to many people got it and Catalina don’t works with the new gadgets like the iPad Pro share screen, only very new models, hope someone can hack someday this old computers

javiersconde - Contestar

This is a great guide, super helpful. I got the replacement part from iFixit and was a little intimidated by having to bend it into shape, but apart from that the fix was very straightforward. I was stressed as my city is in total lockdown due to COVID-19 and couldn’t get to a shop, but this guide really saved me. So relieved I didn’t lose my university work.

Callum Glennen - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 horas: 86

Ultimos 7 días: 611

Ultimos 30 días: 2,452

Todo El Tiempo: 402,563