Introducción
Sustituye la placa lógica de su MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010.
Qué necesitas
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Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:
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Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.
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Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.
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Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Usa un spudger para sacar el conector del ventilador de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Thankfully there is a helpful guide in the comments on this post for fixing the socket in the likely event that you snap the sucker clean off like I did:
Broke it as well the picture is very misleading.
Local mobile repair shop soldered it back for me.. but it cost me twice as much as fan I ordered from china. They told me to use two tools in the future.. one to keep the edge down and other to gauge gently from under the cables...
Bade -
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Toma la lengüeta de plástico asegurada al candado del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.
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Tira con cuidado del conector del cable de datos de la pantalla paralelo a la placa.
On my system the pad on top of the connector was shifted making the bracket difficult to rotate into the up position. The bracket looks like a handle so my first instinct was to pull it straight up. Big mistake. I ended up popping the brass guard off the connector on the logic board. The instructions could benefit from an arrow indicating the direction to pull and rotation of the bracket.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el subwoofer y el conector del altavoz derecho de la placa lógica.
The first time i tried this on a MBP 13 I broke the connector form the board. It should be noted that you have to be very careful in this step, as the plug fits very tightly and you can easily use too much force to tear the connector from the board. Use a second spudger to hold down the connector at its border and try very gently using a second spudger to move the plug out of the connector upwards.
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Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia la unidad óptica para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.
As mentioned, the socket can be easily damaged when re-inserting it. I didn't care enough and one pin was damaged. Wifi was not detected.
Hopefully the pin was not broken (only bent). Putting it back in its correct position, the wifi re-appeared.
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Usa la uña o la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano del teclado.
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Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano del teclado fuera de su zócalo.
Sometimes spulger is not the best tool to slide the cable out. If it is difficult to slide, try two toothpicks to pull the cable from two sides simultaneosly.
Toothpicks did the trick, thanks
As Mateo said, replacing the zif cable is NOT easy, and in this case, will leave you with a computer that won't power on- this cable connects the power button. I learned a trick somewhere for dealing with these cables- put a piece of good sticky tape on the cable, and use it to pull it back into the connector. Works every time.
Yeah! The tape trick worked for me. Thanks!
Thank you Steve, it’s works perfectly.
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Despega la pequeña tira de cinta negra del conector del cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.
Be very careful while taking this black tape off. I accidentally broke the chip off the motherboard and so my keyboard is not backlit any more.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del cable en el zócalo ZIF para el cable plano de la retroiluminación del teclado.
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Usa tu spudger para deslizar el cable plano de luz de fondo del teclado fuera de su zócalo.
Be especially careful as my hole socket detached from the board. It would have helped to vertically press the socket to the board with the tip of a spudger. Thus partially blocking the strap, you can first peel the free end, then change position and peel the rest. Slide the ribbon cable perfectly horizontally.
I had the same issue of trying to get the ZIF cable back in but found that if I used a piece of scotch tape, it worked. I followed this guide. MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in
A reassembly trick that works for me is to use some 3/4" blue painters tape to stick to the very back (lower end) of the ribbon cable so I can pull it up and back before locking the cam. Trying to get a good grip without cutting, or crimping the ribbon means no tweezers or pliers can be used.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del indicador de batería de la placa lógica.
If you’re swapping top cases, you might need to remove the battery indicator from the case and swap it to the replacement top case. It attaches with three very tiny Phillips screws. I wasn’t aware that my replacement top case didn’t have this part and got confused when reversing the steps to reassemble and I didn’t have this connector. I had to take the battery back out in order to swap the indicator over.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar el micrófono del adhesivo que lo une a la carcasa superior.
on the Australian/Asia version speaker cable is located underneath the logic board.
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Levanta la placa lógica desde su borde izquierdo y levántala hasta que los puertos despejen el costado de la carcasa superior.
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Separa la placa lógica del costado de la carcasa superior y retírala, teniendo cuidado con la placa de entrada de CC que puede quedar atrapada.
Be careful while taking the board out, as the heatsink usually is caught by the optic drive.
mid 2012: Careful of the left speaker (on your right because unit is upside down). Gently remove with spudger tool before removing logic board and when reinstalling press firmly back into place with spudger. Install speaker after putting logic board in place but before installing screws.
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Retire los cuatro tornillos Phillips de 8,5 mm que sujetan el disipador de calor a la placa lógica.
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Levante con cuidado el disipador de calor de la placa lógica.
As the pic in step 22 reveals, the Apple factories in Asia apply a huge amount of thermal heat sink paste goop to the top surface of the processors. The need for a special primer on this reapplication procedure (other than the removal and cleaning of the old paste from the processors' surfaces) is over-rated.
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Retira la cinta adhesiva que cubre el conector del cable del micrófono y el conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo.
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Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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5 comentarios
My Mac book pro mid 2010 unibody 13' suddenly stopped working and was diagnosed for water damage. followed step by step instruction to disassemble and reassemble the logic board. Even the cleaning procedure for the water damage was available on the ifixit website. The author's instructions are very clear and precise and the colour coded markings about the screws and all other instruction are very precise. My mac book is now back to life after two years. THANKS A LOT to IFIXIT and the AUTHOR.
Thanks so much. A Wonderful Resourse. The Logic board Tutorial is great and computer is working so far!
Logic board purchased from ifix also!
nope, It looks like it would, but no
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Contestar
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Contestar
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Contestar
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Contestar