Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar todo el ensamblaje de la pantalla.
Qué necesitas
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Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:
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Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.
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Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.
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Levanta ligeramente la tapa inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberarlo de las pestañas que lo sujetan
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del parlante derecho/subwoofer de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Desconecta el cable de datos de la cámara del canal en la unidad óptica.
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Toma la lengüeta de plástico asegurada al candado del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.
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Saca el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo.
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Asegúrate de tirar del conector directamente y no hacia arriba de su zócalo.
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Retira los dos tornillos Torx T8 exteriores de 6,5 mm que sujetan cada uno de los dos soportes de la pantalla a la carcasa superior (4 tornillos en total).
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Abre tu MacBook para que la pantalla quede perpendicular a la caja superior.
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Coloca tu MacBook abierta sobre una mesa como se muestra en la imagen.
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Mientras sujetas la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la mano izquierda, extrae el tornillo Torx T8 de 6,5 mm restante del soporte inferior de la pantalla.
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Retira el último tornillo Torx T8 restante que sujeta la pantalla a la carcasa superior.
When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!
Save yourself some time and don't drop it!
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Toma la carcasa superior con la mano derecha y gírala ligeramente hacia la parte superior de la pantalla para que el soporte de la pantalla superior quede libre del borde de la carcasa superior.
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Gira la pantalla ligeramente alejándola de la caja superior.
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Levanta la pantalla y sepárala de la carcasa superior, prestando atención a los soportes o cables que puedan quedar atrapados.
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
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5 comentarios
Thanks for the guide, it was spot on. I dropped my beloved MacBook Pro and it cracked the display. Following the guide was a snap even for my old eyes, the ability to make the pictures full screen is great.
Had the standard problem with a loose screen on a MacBook Pro 13in 2010. Followed the guide which is very clear and got to the screws which I could then tighten. Reassembled and on booting could hear the fan but no display aside from a few flashes. Rechecked the screen data cable connection which was slightly mis-aligned. corrected it and it worked fine. That connection is very sensitive!
Saved me $900 quoted by the Macstore - 90 mins work on my own and a few grey hairs. A glass of red wine helps.
Just followed the steps and I successfully reinstalled a new screen/lid assembly. The only problem being was step 4. When gently (underline gently) removed the audio cable, all of the pins fractured and remained in the board so now my onboard audio is highly limited. I have to ask why was that step necessary as the removal/reinstall would have been completely possible without step 4. Greg
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - Contestar
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Contestar
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Contestar
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - Contestar