Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar una placa AirPort/Bluetooth rota.
Qué necesitas
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Extrae los siguientes diez tornillos:
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Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 14.4 mm
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Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm
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Cuatro tornillos de resalto Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm
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Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca para extraer su toma de corriente de la placa madre.
Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.
Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.
I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine
I whittled down ends of two wooden strips to use, along with my fingernails to start with. I used halves of a wooden clothespin, but popsicle sticks should work too.
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Dobla el cabre de la batería ligeramente para alejarlo de su conexión en la placa madre para evitar que se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabajas.
I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.
That's a good tip
Anrothan -
Great tip, I did that too
One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)
On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.
I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs
Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years
First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,
I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe
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an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!
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Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable de cinta del AirPort/Bluetooth de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.
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Con cuidado tira del cable de la camara y sácalo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
My cable is broken, have the part number or code to buy?
I found there was plenty of length in the camera cable (as it goes around two sides of the optical drive) so does not need to be disconnected - just ease it out of the slot alongside the drive and lay it diagonally across.
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Mueve con cuidado el cable de cinta AirPort/Bluetooth fuera del camino cuando despegas el adhesivo que sujeta el cable de la cámara al subwoofer y al soporte del AirPort/Bluetooth.
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Desvía el cable de la cámara desde debajo del dedo de retención moldeado en el soporte AirPort/Bluetooth.
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Usando el método descrito en el último paso, desconecta los tres conectores restantes de la antena.
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Desvíe sus cables de las ranuras cortadas en el soporte AirPort/Bluetooth.
I found re-attaching these antennae connectors the trickiest bit by far as they appear very delicate and seating them correctly was fiddly. In the end lighting them from the side with a small torch helped to check their position before gently pushing them down. The first one made a clicking sound as it connected, the other two went on silently. MBP wifi working perfectly now. I’m fairly sure that was at least £100 of labour had I taken it in for repair so thanks ifixit for saving me money and for the warm glow of accomplishment!
Actually, on my repair attempt, one antenna cable broke (on the image the bottom right one in the red square), I’m not sure whether it broke already before or was morbid somehow. Fact is. suddenly I had this cable in my fingers, and was sure I completely broke the macbook and need to find a new display now.
But as it turned out: the Mac is still fully working, including WIFI, BT, Camera etc. So apart from my huge relief, I want to address that these cables may break easily at their connection with the display. And that one antenna might be not mandatory for WIFI to work.
How do I know which of these cables goes in which slot when attaching the new display?
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Retira el trozo de cinta EMI que cubre el conector del cable AirPort/Bluetooth.
once you peel the emi tape off it you might not be able to put it back on
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Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable AirPort/Bluetooth de su zócalo en la placa AirPort/Bluetooth.
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Retira el cable AirPort/Bluetooth.
Hi, any one know the name or the number part of the female connector of the flex cable? (the one on the card)
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Retira la placa AirPort/Bluetooth de su soporte.
Why doesn't the replacement bracket come with a thermal pad, or maybe I didn't see a hint to buy one too?
Why doesn't the bracket come with a thermal pad or a hint to buy one?
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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10 comentarios
If you change your bluetooth card, its MAC address will change. Since pairing is done by MAC, you will need to re-pair all devices.
My Wifi failed, "no hardware found", but the Bluetooth still worked. I replaced the board, but still no dice. Turns out it was the cable. Lesson learned: try the cheaper part first! Not a total loss, now I have Bluetooth 4.
hi there. Where did you get the cable. I'm looking everywhere, but I only see cables with 3 antenna connectors (but I see 4 connectors on the board) & they all have the isight wire (which i need as well).
Also did you find a good tutorial on how to replace the wire rather than the board?
any help here extremely appreciated!
Hello,
I was able to complete this repair in less than 40 minutes, thanks to the author and his easy-to-follow guide!
Regarding Step 10 - I found it easier to use a Phillips #000 screwdriver (instead of the recommended #00 size) for the two “orange” 3.1 mm Phillips screws, as it did not slide off the tiny screw heads like the larger-sized screwdriver would.
This is an amazingly succinct and clear at of instructions! My Hat is of to you!
I discovered that the flat wifi cable was not properly plugged in, so I plugged it back in and went no further! Yea it worked!
I added this note already in step 7, but want to make more visible for those that might encounter a broken cable:
Actually, on my repair attempt, one antenna cable broke (on the image the bottom right one in the red square in #7), I’m not sure whether it broke already before or was morbid somehow. Fact is: suddenly I had this cable in my fingers, and was sure I completely broke the macbook and need to find a new display now.
But as it turned out: the Mac is still fully working, including WIFI, BT, Camera etc. So apart from my huge relief, I want to address that these cables may break easily at their connection with the display. And that one antenna might be not mandatory for WIFI to work.
thanks - which one broke for you - I broke 2 and still have bluetooth and can connect to wifi but cannot surf on wifi - on ethernet till I can find a replacement - I also broke my isight cable trying to remove it from the logic board
While replacing the Airport/Bluetooth card, I broke the airport cable. The little connector piece is still connected to the logic board and I cannot take it off. Is there any solution?
did you figure it out. I suppose you tried tweezers. They pop right off. I broke two wires removing the right under/super drive tweeter. such a bummer. And I cannot find a full dongle of the isight cable with the 4 antenna connectors (I am only seeing ones with 3 antenna connectors)!
lmk if you found the bundle, where was that?
Anyone know if the form factor/interface of this card is an industry standard or if it is custom fit for Apple? I know in earlier MacBooks they used a Mini PCIE interface, and I was able to swap the built-in 802.11n Airport card for a higher-performing and more compatible Intel 802.11ac card when running Linux. Just curious if I'd be able to do something similar with this model.
How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?
gunes314 - Contestar
You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.
Marshall WahlstromHelgren -
Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.
Robert Wacker - Contestar
Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?
taylornya - Contestar
iFixit sells a kit: MacBook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set
Darrell Johnson -
I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?
rodrigosady - Contestar
I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.
Michael Wilkens -
We have a guide for that!
Cómo quitar un tornillo barrido
Sam Omiotek -
My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.
jeremyyoung - Contestar
A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.
Iain Boyd - Contestar
I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better
cam2000deluxe -
Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.
Patrick Langvardt - Contestar
That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.
Gary Register -
Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.
Degeorges - Contestar
Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !
Claire Miesch -
Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table
Moritz - Contestar
Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)
Cinemated Man - Contestar
What's the difference between the shouldered and non shouldered screws? They look exactly the same to me.
MLNLRD - Contestar