Introducción
Usa esta guía para reemplazar el ensamblaje del cable de antena de MacBook Pro 13" Barra Táctil de finales de 2016.
Para tu seguridad, descarga la batería de tu MacBook Pro hasta un 25% de carga o menos antes de empezar.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Enciende tu Mac y ejecuta Terminal.
-
Copia y pega el siguiente comando (o escríbelo exactamente) en la Terminal:
-
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
-
Presiona [return]. Si se te solicita, introduce tu contraseña de administrador y vuelve a pulsar [return]. Nota: La tecla de retorno también puede estar etiquetada como ⏎ o "enter".
-
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
-
-
-
Utiliza un controlador P5 Pentalobe para quitar los seis tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior:
-
Dos tornillos de 6.2 mm.
-
Cuatro tornillos de 3.4 mm.
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
-
-
-
Aplica un asa de succión a la caja inferior cerca del área central delantera del MacBook Pro.
-
Levanta el asa de succión para crear una ligera grieta entre la carcasa inferior y el chasis.
-
-
-
Inserta una esquina de una púa de apertura en el espacio entre la caja inferior y el chasis.
-
Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina más cercana y hasta la mitad del lado del estuche.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
-
-
-
Inserta tu púa de apertura una vez más debajo del borde frontal de la caja inferior, cerca de uno de los dos orificios de los tornillos más centrales.
-
Dale a la púa un giro firme para liberar el tercer clip que sujeta la carcasa inferior al chasis.
-
Repite este procedimiento cerca del otro de los dos orificios para tornillos más lejanos, liberando el cuarto clip.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
-
-
-
Tira de la caja inferior firmemente hacia la parte frontal del MacBook (lejos del área de la bisagra) para separar el último de los clips que aseguran la carcasa inferior.
-
Tira de una esquina y luego de otra.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
-
-
-
Retira la caja inferior.
-
Colócala en su lugar y alinea los clips deslizantes cerca de la bisagra de la pantalla. Presiona hacia abajo y desliza la cubierta hacia la bisagra. Debería dejar de deslizarse cuando las pinzas se enganchen.
-
Cuando los clips deslizantes estén totalmente acoplados y las minúsculas parezcan estar correctamente alineadas, presione firmemente sobre las minúsculas para acoplar los cuatro clips ocultos que hay debajo. Deberías sentir y escucharlos encajar en su lugar.
-
-
-
Con cuidado despega el trozo grande de cinta que cubre el conector de la batería en el borde de la placa lógica más cercano a la batería.
-
Remueve la cinta.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
-
-
-
-
Con cuidado despega el pequeño trozo de cinta que cubre el conector del cable de datos de la placa de la batería.
-
-
-
Usa la punta de un spudger para dar vuelta la pequeña lengüeta negra de bloqueo que sujeta el cable en su conector.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para levantar con cuidado el conector de alimentación de la batería desconectando la batería.
-
Levanta el conector de forma quede separado de su zócalo. Si hace contacto accidentalmente durante la reparación, podría dañar tu MacBook Pro.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
-
-
-
Remueve los cuatro tornillos de 1.9 mm T3 Torx que sujetan las tapas de plástico en la parte superior de las bisagras de la pantalla.
-
Remueve las dos tapas de plástico de la bisagra.
-
-
-
Remueve los dos tornillos T3 Torx de 2.9 mm que sujetan la tapa de aluminio sobre la parte superior del cable de pantalla principal.
-
Remueve la tapa.
-
-
-
Remueve los cuatro tornillos T3 Torx de 1.5 mm que sujetan las dos tapa de aluminio sobre los dos conectores de cable de pantalla.
-
Usa un par de pinzas para remover las dos tapas de aluminio.
What is the exact size of these screws? lost one trying to put it back in and trying to figure out what I need to buy
Is this step necessary? actually i did it, but when installing the new screen, i found the 2 aluminum covers already in the new screen, so i installed the new one without taking them out…
after it worked, i believe we can skip this step.
my laptop is 2017 15”, 1707
-
-
-
Remueve los cuatro tornillos T5 Torx en ambos lados que sujetan el ensamblaje de cable de antena.
-
También quita los doce tornillos Pentalobe de 1.1 mm P2 (seis de cada lado).
The 1,1mm screws are completly stuck, I have the screwdrivers but the screws are just not turning. Any tips how to take them off ?
I tried other screwdrivrer and put a rubber on it while trying to take it off but nothing works,
Had the same problem with my ‘quality’ P2 screwdriver. A dirt cheap set from Ya Xun, nr. YX-6025 saved the day
The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.
Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)
Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.
F# Apple for making pentalobe screws and f# them for using this many.
Wiha calls the P2 driver a 1PL
Pay attention: in both sides the two 3,9 mm T5 Torx screws they are different from each other.
DO NOT mix then otherwise you will won’t be able to install then again correctly.
-
-
-
Desconecta cuidadosamente los tres cables coaxiales de la antena, sacándolos directamente de la placa lógica.
-
Desliza tus pinzas o el extremo plano de tu spudger debajo de cada cable hasta que esté cerca del zócalo, y luego suavemente gíralo o haz una palanca para desconectarlo.
-
-
-
Retira con cuidado el ensamblaje de la antena, mientras que simultáneamente alimentas el haz de cables de la antena por debajo del tubo de calor.
Reversing this step was the hardest part for me. There is a small “tunnel” that runs under the heat pipe which the 3 antenna cables plus the securing bracket must be threaded through. The shortest cable easily got stuck or pushed off to the side under the heat pipe. After many attempts, I found success by bending the 3 wires ever so slightly to the left before inserting them in the tunnel, so that when they make it through the tunnel, they were more prone to stay straight. It was easy to grab them one by one with tweezers by doing that. Just have to be very careful.
To easily fit the antenna cables – turn the whole antenna assembly about 90 degrees ccw and wiggle it a bit back and forth. Since the cables are a bit prebent they quite easily “pops” up – no need to tie them together. The last trick is to not forget the metal tab – using tweezers or a spudger to help guide the tab in position.
-
-
-
Remueve el ensamblaje de cable de antena.
I had a LOT of trouble re-installing the three antenna cables underneath the heat pipe! The only way I could get them through was to use clear tape to bind the three antenna connectors together tightly into one pointy end. I was able to push that through into place, but I was not able to push the three separate wires through.
It’s possible to avoid this problem by just not removing the antenna assembly entirely. I secured the three cables and the screw holder together with a small cable tie to avoid them slipping out. You can fit the new screen without removing the assembly completely.
Thanks dkraermer2 for that tip of wrapping all 3 wires into a narrow point. I used Capton tape. The metal screw holder needed help as it catches on a ridge in the MB. I used tweezers to “Lift” it over that last ridge.
Make sure the antenna cable assembly locates correctly on reassembly. It is important to install this down onto its locating lugs, not pushing from the rear of the machine towards the front. There is a small ‘u’ shaped cutout on bottom of the assembly and a metal tab which must locate into the corresponding ‘u’ shaped lug and slot cut into the metal of the top case. If this is not located correctly there is a good chance that the screen will foul when opening and closing resulting in an audible click as it catches the antenna assembly.
+1 for BrianS comment. The U shape is a placeholder for the antenna and is located at antenna center. If this ever happened to you, fold gently the antenna strip to leave 3 mm space from the antenna main block, and place the antenna center first in oder for the antenna to fit into the U shape properly.
+1 to both BrianS and Xavier Fischer’s comments above. Even when the lug and the cutout are identified, it’s not easy to tell if it’s been seated correctly until you test the hinge. I found Xavier’s suggestion worked.
Putting the three antenna cables to snap onto the connectors again, It felt like I succeeded after much struggle. But after putting it all together - the screen is black. External monitor works though. 2 of 3 feels certain though as it seems on place.
Once all 16 antenna screws are removed along with single screw securing wifi simply loosen the antenna and while holding each end , ROTATE it and pull away gently so as to not disturb the bend of the wifi wires passing thru the heat pipe. The wires are never physically touched and they keep their “natural” bend. To reassemble, holding antenna, guide the two wi-fi wires and the securing lug thru heat pipe as the antenna is rotated into place . There is a very narrow milled slot on the underside that the antennas metal shield must fit into or else it will cause the snapping clicking noise ( spoken of earlier in this guide )as the display assembly hangs up during its opening / closing. Make sure if need be, the spacing between the metal shield and plastic body of antenna is the same as the ridge between the milled slot and the milled out area moving towards rear of palm rest. Alignment is important.
-
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
¡ Mariana Roca nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Contestar
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Contestar
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Contestar
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Contestar
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Contestar
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Contestar
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Contestar
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Contestar
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Contestar
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Contestar
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Contestar
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Contestar
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Contestar
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Contestar
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Contestar
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Contestar
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Contestar
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Contestar
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Contestar
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Contestar
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Contestar
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Contestar
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Contestar
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Contestar
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Contestar
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -