Introducción
Usa esta guía para actualizar o reemplazar la unidad de estado-sólido en una MacBook Pro 13" Early 2013. Esta MacBook Pro usa un proprietary storage drive connector, y por lo tanto no es compatible con unidades M.2 comunes sin el uso de un adaptador.
Antes de realizar esta reparación, si es posible, back up your existing SSD. Después también familiarízate con internet recovery o create a bootable external drive para que estés listo para instalar macOS en tu nueva unidad y muevas tus datos al nuevo SSD.
Finalmente, recomendamos fuertemente instalar macOS 10.13 High Sierra (o una versión mas actual) antes de reemplazar el SSD original de tu MacBook Pro. La mayoría de SSD nuevos requieres actualizar los drivers de almacenamiento que no se encuentran en las versiones anteriores a macOS High Sierra.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Quitar los siguientes diez tornillos que unen la tapa inferior con el cuerpo:
-
Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2.3mm
-
Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 3.0mm
-
-
-
Remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.
-
-
-
Utiliza una pincita para remover la pequeña tapa de plástico ubicada cerca de la parte inferior derecha de la placa de conector de batería.
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
-
-
-
-
Toma el intercalador con pincita
-
Levanta el intercalador de la placa lógica y remuévelo.
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para extraer el conector del cable SSD de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Solo queda el SSD.
A most excellent step by step. I now need to figure out how to grant permission for my backup Air to read my removed Pro SSD files. Perhaps a link from here to that would be helpful.
-
Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
105 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
¡ Fernando Salazar Garcia nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
9 comentarios
I followed the guide and was able to upgrade my wife's MacBook from 128GB to 240 GB!
One thing I noticed was that when I removed the plastic clip in step 6, it left behind a glue dot on the screw head I had to remove in step 7. I wasn't sure why my screwdriver kept rotating until I realized the clear dot was covering the screwed! Then I tweeze the dot off, and put it in the recess on the underside of the clip and all was good.
Everything went to the letter after, until it came time to restart and initialize the new disk. It turns out the old disk had some directory damage, so when it was copied to the new internal SSD, then the Mac wouldn't boot from it until I did a couple FSCK and Repair Disk fixes.
Vignesh,
Here is an option to recover your data and get a tiny speedy external SSD drive for 28.85
Sam,
The 2012 MacBook Pro uses an PCI Express Mini Card connection between the logic board and the SSD.
"Some notebooks (notably the Asus Eee PC, the MacBook Air, and the Dell mini9 and mini10) use a variant of the PCI Express Mini Card as an SSD. This variant uses the reserved and several non-reserved pins to implement SATA and IDE interface passthrough, keeping only USB, ground lines, and sometimes the core PCIe 1x bus intact.[11] This makes the 'miniPCIe' flash and solid state drives sold for netbooks largely incompatible with true PCI Express Mini implementations."
I fully agree, Especially as it turned out to be a little tricky to get the connector back in his position properly. Don't think there is a higher risk of damage through electric shock or so. Next time I will for sure skip it ;-)
Timpetou -
Aren’t steps 4-10 completely unnecessary?
That’s what i thought too!
I also agree. There is only one connection to the SSD cable. No other connectors to the SSD means other connections don't need to be removed. The only reason would be to limit any power spikes when removing the SSD cable itself, but that could also happen when removing the power connector in steps 4 thru 9 as well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Removing the main power connector in my experience can be tricky and cause unintended damage. In one repair I damaged the trackpad connections and in another MacBook repair damaged the power connector itself as they can also be fragile. So the less connectors removed the better. This is not the first time that too many steps have been included in these procedures. i.e.: Battery replacement procedures require speakers be removed in one case that are also not necessary to remove.
I appreciate the effort in developing these procedures, thanks, they are very valuable.
كينجستون ان في1 500 جيجا NVMe PCIe SSD (SNVS/500G) https://www.amazon.eg/dp/B091BCQK7B?psc=...
Is it compatible for macbook pro late 2012?
nvme crucial P5 Plus can install or not? thanks
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Contestar
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Contestar
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - Contestar