Introducción
Use this guide to replace the display assembly.
Qué necesitas
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
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Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).
i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.
Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.
wat is the model this SSD
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the iSight camera cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.
This was the hardest part of the repair for me. The iSight cable was really lodged in its socket. "Walking" the connector as the guide suggests -- i.e. pushing on each side alternately at a 45 degree angle (with more force than I expected) -- eventually worked.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the three antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.
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The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:
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Connect the long-sleeved cable to the socket closest to the ports.
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The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.
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The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.
The long-sleeved and short-sleeved antenna cables are switched compared to this guide, on my Macbook Pro A1425. Maybe note which order they are in on your machine, since apparently they differ. http://i.imgur.com/r9g9ZXS.jpg
Be very careful with these, I wasn't and two of the cables detached from the connectors!!
As two other users have mentioned, the long-and short-sleeved cables for my late 2012/early 2013 A1425 were not in the order mentioned in the guide. If the laptop is positioned with fan in the upper left corner, the order (left to right) is short sleeve, long sleeve, no sleeve. If it is positioned as it is in the photo with the fan in the lower right, the order (left to right) is no sleeve, long sleeve, short sleeve.
I also found my cables were not as described in the guide. They were as @kagnew described.
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Move the antenna cables aside, clear of the AirPort board.
The display assembly has a metal retaining clip attached to the airport cables. I didn’t notice how this was positioned during disassembly, and it wasn’t mentioned in the guide. When I was reassembling the device, I found that it fit perfectly over the Torx T8 screws holding the display to the case. Attaching it here holds the airport cables nicely in place and out of the way.
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Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets.
I ended up stripping one of these out and had to use a T6 and some delicate pressure to get it out. Be careful.
The T6 and a lot of downward pressure ended up doing the trick for me. YMMV
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Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.
There is a retainer for the airport cables that goes beneath the left and center screws.
My screws were covered with a thin tape, much like scotch tape. I used tweezers to remove it.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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8 comentarios
This worked really well. The only issue I had was uninstalling the camera. The instructions to pull the data display cable parallel to logic board made sense in step 14. Unfortunately I didn't understand the similarities in step 10. Is it possible to repair the camera now that the slot is completely broken?
Walk through worked perfect. Did it twice. The first time was just to make sure that wasn’t anything disconnect or any wires damage. The second time was to replace the screen. Works perfect.
Hi,
can I replace an damaged display of a MacBook Pro 13” late 2013 with a display from the early 2013 version?
I compared the high-def pictures of each cable connection and they seem to be identical, or am I wrong?
Thanks for the help.
Cheers
L
Hi there! Unfortunately as listed on the product page, the Late 2013 13” display is not compatible with the Early 2013, only the Mid 2014.
Can a late 2012 MacBook Pro 13” Retina display be used with an early 2013 MacBook Pro 13”?
I really don’t know the answer, I am new to fixing EVERYTHING so my learning curve is steep. I successfully replaced my screen but I was careful to read what fit. It’s been awhile now. Good luck finding your answer
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Contestar
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Contestar
It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.
Raymond Shpeley - Contestar