Introducción
Replace the LCD screen without the inverter, cables, or bezels.
Herramientas
Resumen del Video
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Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
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Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.
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Remove the following 3 screws:
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One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
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Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
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Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:
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The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.
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Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
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Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
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Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.
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While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.
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While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.
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Grasp the white plastic tab attached to the hard drive and pull it to the left, removing the hard drive from the computer.
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Remove the following 3 screws:
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Two 3 mm Phillips near the right speaker.
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One 6 mm Phillips threaded through a hole in a plastic finger above the subwoofer.
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Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.
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Remove the following 2 screws from the right hinge mount:
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One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the hinge mount.
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One 10 mm Phillips on the right side of the hinge mount.
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For Santa Rosa/Penryn models, see second picture and remove:
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One 3 mm smalller diameter Phillips on the far left.
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One 5.2 mm larger diameter 4.2 mm head Phillips in the middle.
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One 10 mm Phillips from the far right.
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Lift the right hinge mount with the small plastic piece out of the computer.
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Hold the display with one hand while removing the screws from the left hinge mount.
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Remove the following 3 screws from the left hinge mount:
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One 7.2 mm smaller diameter Phillips from the right side.
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One 5.2 mm larger diameter Phillips from the middle.
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One 10 mm Phillips from the left side.
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Lift the left hinge mount with plastic piece out of the computer.
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Check that the cables on the right are not trapped under other cables.
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Use a thin plastic card to release the tabs holding the front display bezel to the display assembly. There are five tabs along the left side of the display bezel.
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Remove the small piece of foam tape stuck down above each of the bezel covers.
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Turn the LCD panel assembly over so that the screen is face down. You may want to use a cloth on your worksurface to prevent scratching the screen.
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Peel up all the yellow tape securing the display data and iSight cables to the back of the LCD panel.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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11 Comentarios
This guide is fantastic and has worked well for me. As other commenters have said and noted in the "Difficult" difficulty, it does require some skill and repair knowledge. The most important thing here is to keep track of your screws. I use a bead organizer for some perspective. All things said and done, be patient, keep your head, have the right tools and this fix is a piece of cake.
The directions are excellent! I did it... and it worked!!! The whole thing took me about 2 hours or so. While you have the computer apart, it's probably a good idea to replace the backlight inverter too (only about $20). I used the top and bottom of an egg carton to sort the screws by step, then reassembled using the screws in reverse order.
Quick Question: I seem to have an "extra" cable on my White Macbook (2007, IIRC) LCD. If you look at foto for Step 52 above, I have a thin BLUE cable running down the right-hand side - near the silver one - that goes down between the hinge and the edge of the back cover and then along the edge behind the inverter and then behind the other hinge, then goes up towards the LCD panel and is taped together in a 3-cable bunch with the 2 thin cables you can see on the left of of foto 52. This blue cable has the same "tip" as the other 2 in the foto.
Any ideas? Thanks.
In reply to Matt; there are 2 types of airport cards that come on these machines, some require 2 antennae leads and others use 3 (I believe the newer type uses 2). Some machines have the older style 3 leads even though they used the newer airport card, so they just left the tip off the unused lead.
To replace JUST THE CCFL BULB, would I really need to do all of this? Can the face of the LCD be removed to reveal the bulb enough for removal?
