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Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013

Qué necesitas

  1. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013, Cubierta inferior: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de continuar, apaga tu MacBook. Cierra la pantalla y colócala en una superficie suave con la parte superior hacia abajo.

    • Usa un destornillador P5 Pentalobe para quitar los diez tornillos que sujetan la carcasa. Los tornillos tienen las siguientes medidas:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 9 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2,6 mm

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Contestar

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Contestar

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Contestar

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Contestar

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Contestar

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Contestar

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Contestar

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Contestar

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Contestar

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Contestar

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Contestar

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Contestar

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Contestar

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Contestar

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Contestar

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Contestar

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Contestar

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Contestar

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Contestar

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Contestar

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Contestar

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Contestar

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Contestar

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Contestar

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Contestar

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - Contestar

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen - Contestar

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella - Contestar

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Introduce tus dedos entre la pantalla y la carcasa y tira hacia arriba para separar la carcasa.

    • Retira la carcasa inferior y déjala a un lado.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Contestar

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Contestar

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Contestar

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke - Contestar

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Contestar

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Contestar

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - Contestar

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013, Conector de Batería: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013, Conector de Batería: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • Para asegurar que todo está sin corriente eléctrica y no encenderlo mientras estemos trabajando, es recomendable que desconectes la batería.

    • Coge la lengüeta de plástico transparente que está unida al conector de la batería y tira de ella en paralelo a la placa hacia el borde delantero del ordenador.

    • No levantes el conector hacia arriba mientras lo desconectas, o te arriesgas a dañar el zócalo del conector.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Contestar

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Contestar

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Contestar

    After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

    The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

    It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

    AnnoniMoose - Contestar

    There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.

    rmccord23 -

    What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?

    Carla Tisdale - Contestar

    Yep, exactly the issue that I have

    Martin Adams -

    Where can i buy the battery connector?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Contestar

    Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Contestar

    Connector socket came off, can I just glue it into place?

    Lisa Mac - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013, Cable de entrada/salida de la tarjeta: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa la esquina de un spudger para hacer palanca en el conector de entrada/salida de la tarjeta fuera de su soporte.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 5, imagen 1 de 1
    • Con cuidado desprende el cable del adhesivo asegurándolo encima del ventilador.

    • Durante el reensamble asegúrate de que este cable está en la orientación correcta. Se puede conectar de manera reversa, pero la laptop no arrancará.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Contestar

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Contestar

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Contestar

    I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!

    Alexae Visel - Contestar

  6. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • El siguiente conector tiene un soporte especial profundo. Ten cuidado al desconectarlo.

    • Al jalar de manera cuidadosa el cable de entrada/salida hacia arriba de su conexión de la tarjeta lógica, usa la esquina de una espátula para hacer palanca en los lugares alternativos del conector para ayudar a retirar el cable fuera de su soporte.

    • Remueve el cable de entrada/salida.

    pour le remontage

    de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )

    matthiasf40 - Contestar

    A client was careless and used a fingernail to pry up the cable in one pull. It pulled the socket right off the logic board.

    w98fxr - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013, Ventilador: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa de retención en el enchufe ZIF del cable del ventilador.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la solapa de retención con bisagras, no en el enchufe en sí.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    My retaining flap broke instantly when lifting up with the spudger. Is that normal or possible to fix?

    Cameron Lawrence - Contestar

    Similar problem, but with the microphone flap. Did you manage to fix it or get it back in?

    Edwin -

    I've performed many repairs on 13" MacBook Airs ('MBA's), including two heat sink compound 're-dos' just today (on a 2014 13" and a 2015 13").

    It is not necessary to remove the I/O Board to take out the heatsink. And I've done it both ways - its way easier if you leave the I/O board in place. Here's why: removing the I/O board requires dis -and re-connecting two extremely delicate connectors as well as several cables that are really tricky to get back in place, all critical connections. If you aren't experienced with this kind of work, its taxing.

    Instead, once you remove the flat I/O cable, remove the 3 screws holding in the fan and the two hinge screws securing the antenna cable guide. Now the screw securing the tip of the 'radiator' end of the heat sink will be pretty easy to access. The detached fan can moved (and you don't need /want to move it much!) to disengage the rubber shroud where it goes under the fan and gently guide the 'radiator' out.

    clinton - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Despega la junta de goma del adhesivo en la parte superior del ventilador.

    In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

    Tito Jankowski - Contestar

    lol same thing for me.

    h_man08 - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3,6 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2,7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3,6 mm con cabeza corta

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - Contestar

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Contestar

  10. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta el ventilador desde el lado de la placa de E/S y sácalo de la carcasa superior.

    • Al quitar el ventilador, también se desconectará el cable plano del ventilador. Ten cuidado de no engancharlo.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - Contestar

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    If you are careful with the ribbon cable, there is no need to remove it, the fan will swing out of the way enough. I applied a small amount of sticky tape over the connector to keep it in place, just in case!

    Damian Holland - Contestar

  11. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013, Placa de E/S: paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Desconecta la placa de E/S tirando del cable de alimentación para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica hacia el borde derecho del Air.

    It requires a somewhat concerning amount of force. I mean, be careful, but I pulled just slightly more than I was comfortable with (for the first time)

    Elijah Kennedy - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 12, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 12, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo y sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa de E/S.

    • Haz palanca desde debajo de los cables.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 13, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 13, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa de retención en el conector ZIF del cable plano del micrófono.

    • Asegúrate de levantar la solapa de retención, no el enchufe en sí.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - Contestar

    I managed to get the little flap out when trying to push it back in. Now I can’t get the microphone to work…

    Edwin - Contestar

    I removed it And I can’t get it to stay connected now that I am putting it back together? How does it stick to the gold part???

    jelainec1 - Contestar

    This was an extremely sensitive part to remove. The sticky bit didn’t seem to want to let go, and there isn’t really anywhere to ‘grab’ the cable from the ZIF socket. Ended up using the sticky ‘cover’ portion. Just be carefully wiggling and cajoling the cable free. (2013 model)

    Thomas Keats - Contestar

  14. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 3,6 mm que sujeta la placa de E/S a la carcasa superior.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Contestar

    This comment was extremely helpful as the connection on the cable end is difficult to see. The tab is for pulling the connector into place.

    jheller105 -

  15. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 15, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 15, imagen 2 de 2
    • Con cuidado, desvía el cable de la cámara de su muesca en la placa de E/S y empújalo para que no estorbe con la punta de un spudger.

  16. Reemplazo de la placa de E/S del MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013: paso 16, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levanta la placa de E/S desde el lado de la placa lógica y sácala de la carcasa superior.

    • Al quitar la placa de E/S también se desconectará el cable plano del micrófono. Ten cuidado de no engancharlo.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - Contestar

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

    OAT YEAH! Followed this guide to replace my Macbook Air 2014 I/O board step-by-step (thx Jeff Suovanen and contributors) with no probs…workie workie now! FYI it had stopped charging…I tried a new charger, new battery, and finally this I/O board…

    Just take your time and make sure you have the torx screw + adapter bits and spudger as they do not come with the I/O board (I had them leftover from a previous iFixit battery swap).

    Kent O - Contestar

    When replacing the I/O board, be careful to gently lift the microphone ribbon cable out of the way. If you forget, you’ll have to remove the I/O board to get at it again…

    VikingShips - Contestar

Conclusión

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8 comentarios

How can I tell if its my I/O board that is damaged? I cannot hear sound from Aux port or from the speakers on my macbook. Laptop still charges fine though.

Ralphy Sierra - Contestar

Check to see if your USB port on that side works. That was how I know mine was bad.

craig - Contestar

Was easier than I thought to do.

craig - Contestar

If light on magsafe doesn't turn on, is it safe to say the io board needs to be replaced?

Jon Lewin - Contestar

Thumbs up Walter!

jlaramore - Contestar

Worked perfectly for me. In my case the audio device wasn’t able to be found so no sound unless I used a usb or bluetooth speaker. I found that one step here wasn’t necessary was to remove the fan - just swivel it out of the way and so you don’t have to unplug it. Otherwise a very good explanation made it easy for me to fix my 2013 MacAir having no sound.

Josh Marshall - Contestar

Thank you! Very easy directions, and Macbook Air is now charging. One question; after replacing the I/O board, although the magsafe charger is working, the light comes on, etc., the AC charger is no longer recognized in the system report. It says that no AC adapter is connected, and that it’s not charging even though it is. Any ideas, or I just don’t need to worry about it?

Willa Deane Mikel - Contestar

Thank you, perfect instructions. Macbook now fixed and charging like it should!

Melanie P. - Contestar

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