Introducción

Use this guide to replace the display assembly.

    • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Contestar

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.

    Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Contestar

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Contestar

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Contestar

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Contestar

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Contestar

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Contestar

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Contestar

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Contestar

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Contestar

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Contestar

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Contestar

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Contestar

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Contestar

    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

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    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

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    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

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    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - Contestar

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Contestar

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    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - Contestar

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - Contestar

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - Contestar

    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - Contestar

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - Contestar

    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

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    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - Contestar

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

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    • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

    • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

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    • Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it.

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    • Pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

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    • Remove the inner four (two on each side) 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right and left display hinges to the upper case.

    • Leaving the outer screws in place for now will aid in disassembly.

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    • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

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    • Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

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    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the left display bracket.

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    • Turn the computer onto its opposite edge so the right display screw is now easily accesible.

    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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    • Open the Air slightly to allow room for the hinges to slide out of their notches.

    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then push it back from the hinges.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

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    • During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel.

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Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

48 personas más completaron esta guía.

Just a reminder that you DO NOT want to touch the battery with your hands or a screw driver you can compromise the integrity of the battery and possibly cause a thermal event. Always use proper battery cover kit.

http://www.macpalace.com/076-1372-batter...

Corey - Contestar

It's not written to remove the screen cable connector (at the top left corner, looking to the lower surface). Please add this step

Emilio - Contestar

This step is still needed (before step 18, which shows it disconnected). I didn't notice this until I attempted to remove the display.

Stuart Mc Bride -

When reassembling the device, keep in mind that the holes in the hinges are relatively big compared to the T8 screws, so there will be a certain play. Check if display and body are in line when the MacBook is closed, then tighten the screws.

Marcel - Contestar

When I noticed this (also similar issue when installing the trackpad), I thought "what an inferior engineering for such an expensive product".

Gene Pavlovsky -

These instructions were great. I was able to replace the cracked display on my air with no issues.

Brandon Beckham - Contestar

how much did your new screen cost?

Orlando Bustamante Rincón -

Upon completing the installation of the new screen I found out that the screen backlight was not working. I checked all connections and everything was connected properly. I checked the fuse that has the “P” on it and it does not appear to be blown. I looked over other chips on the board and did not find anything else blown. Are there any other things I should look into before assuming that the display is the problem?

Simon Wagner - Contestar

Check the brightness setting on the computer. If it is all the way down the backlight turns off.

Joe Legris -

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