Qué necesitas
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Usa un destornillador P5 Pentalobe para quitar los diez tornillos que sujetan la carcasa. Los tornillos tienen las siguientes medidas:
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Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 9 mm
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Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2,6 mm
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Agarre la lengüeta de plástico transparente unida al conector de la batería y tire de ella hacia el borde frontal del Air para desconectar la batería de la placa lógica.
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Utilice el extremo plano de una paleta para sacar el cable del conector I/O de la tarjeta tire hacia arriba fuera del zócalo I/O sobre la tarjeta.
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Mientras hale suavemente el cable de la tarjeta I/O hacia arriba está cerca la conexión de la tarjeta lógica, use la punta de una paleta para hacer palanca hacia arriba sobre los lados alternos del conector para ayudar a "desplazarlo" fuera del conector.
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Remueva el cable de la tarjeta I/O
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Utiliza la punta de la espátula para levantar con cuidado la lengüeta que retiene el cable ZIF del ventilador del conector.
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Desconecta la placa de E/S tirando del cable de alimentación para separarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Retire los siguientes cinco tornillos que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:
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Tres tornillos Tx Torx de 6,3 mm
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Dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2,4 mm
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Usa la punta de un spudger o tu uña para levantar la solapa de retención en el conector ZIF del cable plano del trackpad.
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Asegúrese de levantar la solapa de retención con bisagras, no el zócalo en sí.
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Empuja suavemente la punta de un spudger debajo de la solapa de plástico negro pegada al bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla para que el bloqueo salte hacia arriba y se aleje del zócalo.
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Mientras mantienes la cerradura alejada del zócalo, usa la punta de un spudger y tus dedos para quitar suavemente el cable de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo.
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9 comentarios
Those connections are scary small! The speaker connections in particular are very fragile and hard to get under to lift off. One of mine came apart, but it could be reassembled by first placing the plastic connector in the socket and carefully connecting the metal terminations into it. Be careful to orient the slot in the wire termination so it is vertical to interface with the lug in the socket, if that happens to you.
I had the dreaded "3 beep" (memory failure) problem and ordered a new logic board. Only when I had the old board out did I realize there was a compatibility problem- different board versions, connectors did not match. Since I was stuck anyway, I baked my old board in the oven (325 for 10 minutes) and reassembled it all so I would not lose any parts. I was surprised to have it boot up with the old (baked) board!
I hate these lazy Haynes Manual type of articles that just tear down a product and give zero insight to the actual assembly. It's the type of knowledge that is just enough to be dangerous. Countless of times I've encountered that assembly IS NOT reverse of disassembly, where a specific tool or technique is required that is not covered in this lazy style of articles.
9 times out of 10, disassembly is the easy part and assembly the hard part.
I did not find that to be an issue with this guide, reassembly was quite easy and was just the reverse of assembly. The whole thing took by less than 90 minutes beginning to end.
I feel that almost all assembly steps don't need repeating( a follow up reassemble step). In my opinion, assemble/reassemble steps involving a ribbon/flex cable and ZIF socket would be helpful, especially for newbies. Thats just one techs opinion. All that said, I feel the author did a fantastic job and I had no trouble removing/reinstalling my logic board and components. Thank you A. Goldberg and keep up the good work.
Great guide! I wish I had found this before I followed the ‘tear down’ guide; hopefully I didn’t break anything doing it that way. The I/O board camera connector was the worst — it really requires quite a pull to release. It would be ideal to have a close-up showing exactly where to put the spudger tip to push. Also, the speakers were rather well glued down, but eventually did release. Pointing out where the glue point is (in the notch just before the bend on the right=hand one) would have helped me.