Introducción

Use this guide to replace the thermal paste or heat sink.

    • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

      • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Contestar

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.

    Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Contestar

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Contestar

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Contestar

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Contestar

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Contestar

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Contestar

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Contestar

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Contestar

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Contestar

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Contestar

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Contestar

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Contestar

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Contestar

    • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Contestar

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Contestar

    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

    Agregar Comentario

    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Contestar

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Contestar

    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Contestar

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Contestar

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Contestar

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Contestar

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Contestar

  2. Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Contestar

    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Contestar

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Contestar

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Contestar

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Contestar

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Contestar

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Contestar

    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    You can skip the following five steps if you are just trying to remove the logic board—the I/O board can stay put, and it won’t hinder logic board removal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the hinge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Use the corner of the flat edge of a spudger to push alternately on the metal ears to help disconnect the cable.

    peteragries - Contestar

    And when reinstalling, push the metal ears from behind to snap the connector back into the socket

    peteragries - Contestar

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Don’t use a spludger!!!!! Use tweezers or a super thin flat head. Spludger is too thick…

    Jared Thiel - Contestar

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap securing the microphone ribbon cable to the I/O board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector on the I/O board.

    This is throwing me for a loop. It won't fit back in. Are the volume and mic cable the same cable?

    david nieto - Contestar

    Use the tip of the spudger on the plastic ear at the back of the connector (the ear is on the battery side), to push the connector out of the socket.

    peteragries - Contestar

    This step (14) appears to use two different names for the same cable: microphone ribbon cable and volume button ribbon cable. This is confusing because the photos appear to show only a single cable being disconnected from a ZIF socket.

    sjosefw - Contestar

    • Remove the single 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remove the two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer on the left display hinge to the upper case.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Push the antenna cable retainer out of the way and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    Agregar Comentario

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all five screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

    Agregar Comentario

    • These shots show how the rubber fan gasket should be installed during reassembly. Be sure not to install the gasket underneath the ear where the end of the heatsink is screwed down to the upper case.

    • Additionally, be sure the small post molded into the rubber gasket mates with the hole cut into the upper right corner of the logic board.

    Agregar Comentario

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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I just swapped out a snapped heatsink & faulty fan, now the Macbook Air fan is on full within 20 seconds of boot & the mouse is lagging like crazy.

I’ve been assembling & repairing computers for years, so know how to apply thermal paste properly, so I’m wondering if I’ve missed something crucial here. Anybody else had issues after replacing the heatsink?

Matt Black - Contestar

Replaced the 6 year old dried up thermal paste with liquid metal, worked like a charm!

Gabriel - Contestar

Hello Gabriel, did you only replace the thermal paste? Or did you install a new heat sink too? My Macbook Air is overheating and shutting down. It has gotten worse over time. I am wondering if just cleaning and replacing the thermal paste will work? What do you think?

Thank you!

Chip -

On my Air the fans were running a lot, but no overheat shutdowns.

I replaced only the thermal paste and after that that the fans rarely ever turned on.

Adam Banko - Contestar

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