Saltar al contenido principal

Introducción

Use this guide to replace the upper case, including the keyboard, of your MacBook Air 13" Early 2015.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Contestar

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Contestar

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Contestar

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Contestar

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Contestar

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Contestar

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Contestar

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Contestar

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Contestar

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Contestar

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Contestar

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Contestar

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Contestar

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Contestar

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Contestar

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Contestar

  2. To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Contestar

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Contestar

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

    leonzar - Contestar

    macbook air 13" early 2015

    leonzar - Contestar

    The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!

    John McClung - Contestar

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.3 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

  9. Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.

    Brant Smith - Contestar

  13. Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  14. Kits de Reparación de Batería de iPhone

    Sólo $29.99

    Buy Now

    Kits de Reparación de Batería de iPhone

    Sólo $29.99

    Buy Now
  15. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  16. Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    The I/O board does not need to be removed to remove the display.

    Macman - Contestar

    Nor for the logic board removal

    maccentric - Contestar

    The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

  17. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.9 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 3.0 mm T5 Torx screws

    what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?

    Edy Surpat - Contestar

    There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case

    maccentric -

  18. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?

    Albert - Contestar

    @albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

  20. Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket. Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.
    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

    Omar Lopez - Contestar

    You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

    Jay Quilty - Contestar

    I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

    Jean-Pierre Bazinet - Contestar

  22. Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger. Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
    • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

    • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

    Stuzzington Botulism - Contestar

    Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

    Stuzzington Botulism - Contestar

  23. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  24. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

    Jo (MemePasGame) - Contestar

    Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

    maccentric -

  25. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

    What is this cables for?

    great.ryankim - Contestar

  26. Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

    When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

    First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

    Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

    Rany - Contestar

    Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

    Fox MacLeod - Contestar

    I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

    Corvallis Computer - Contestar

  27. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    This is the same screws as step 17.

    Joseph Lee - Contestar

    In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

    adlerpe - Contestar

    Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

    Sam Goldheart - Contestar

  28. Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    This step is not needed

    mayer - Contestar

    It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

    This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.

    airshack - Contestar

  29. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive. Remove the right speaker from the upper case. Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

    You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

    Alexander Zub - Contestar

    I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

    If your keyboard and/or trackpad need replacing you do not have to replace the entire top case.

    airshack - Contestar

  30. Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught. During reassembly:
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • During reassembly:

    • Keep loose cables clear of the board so they aren't caught under it.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches, as highlighted in the second picture.

  31. Remove the inner two 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.

    • Leaving the third screw in place for now will aid in rest of the procedure.

  32. Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.
    • Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

  33. While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw from the display bracket.
    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw from the display bracket.

  34. Flip the computer over so the last display screw is more easily accesible.
    • Flip the computer over so the last display screw is more easily accesible.

    • Before removing the final display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  35. Open the Air slowly until the hinges slide out of their notches. Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside. Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.
    • Open the Air slowly until the hinges slide out of their notches.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    MBA 2017: At this point I had to deroute the antenna cable from a channel along the back edge of the the upper case. Good to make note of this routing.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

  36. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

    Not necessary to remove this. I was replacing a top case that included the speakers.

    Same as the speaker in Step 29, which seems like it can also be left in place.

    Tito Jankowski - Contestar

    This step is required only if also replacing the keyboard.

    airshack - Contestar

    Replacing the entire top case is not necessary with the common spilled beverage situations. You can purchase a trackpad as well as keyboard for much less than the cost of an entirely new top case. Why replace the expensive aluminum top case unless it is itself broken which is unlikely.

    airshack - Contestar

  37. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the left side of the upper case. If needed, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hairdryer to soften the adhesive. Remove the microphone from the upper case.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the left side of the upper case.

    • If needed, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hairdryer to soften the adhesive.

    • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

    If you’re replacing a top case with one provided by Apple, you won’t need to transfer the microphone to the new top case.

    Carroll Cadden - Contestar

  38. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the rear edge of the Air.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the rear edge of the Air.

  39. While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  40. Remove the following seven screws:
    • Remove the following seven screws:

    • Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

    • One 1.4 mm T5 Torx set screw from its tapped hole near the front edge of the upper case.

    • During reassembly, do not over-tighten the set screw, as the button will cease to click at a certain point. Adjust the set screw until the movable side of the trackpad has minimal play.

    On The MacBook I worked on. It was not necessary to remove the 1.4mm T5 torx set screw. Which I found out after I broke a T5 bit in it.

    Ken Dail - Contestar

    BROKE my T5 bit on this “set screw” too. Correct, it isn’t necessary to remove, I recommend removing it from the steps.

    Broken bit is perhaps a novice move by me, perhaps a cheap Torx screwdriver. Certainly made the rest of the repair dicey.

    Tito Jankowski -

    Yep the replacement case I got had one already installed; you can remove the trackpad with this screw in place, so you may not need to remove it.

    John Noble - Contestar

    I had trouble removing the 6 Phillips screws. Even though I have a Phillips size 00 screwdriver it is not engaging the screws properly — I cannot get them to turn without stripping. I ordered the philips 00 screwdriver from iFixit and am HOPING that solves it.

    Jonathan Healy - Contestar

    Yes, make sure you have a good quality screwdriver that gets excellent purchase on these screws, and bear down to make sure you don’t strip them. I stripped one and had to drill it out with a 1/16” carbide drill bit. I’ll end up with only two screws on one side but I imagine it should be OK.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

    I was able to cheaply replace the keyboard as well as the trackpad, both without replacing the expensive aluminum frame. I followed these steps and then added a few to the end. I was able to easily remove the keyboard black cover/film by lifting the adhesive edges from the case. Then I removed the white backlight layer. Unlike earlier Macbook Pros, this Air model has the keyboard both screwed AND riveted to the aluminum frame. No biggie! I removed the tiny black screws from the keyboard edges then used pliers to pull the keyboard away from the aluminum frame. With this method I removed about 80% of the rivets which left perfect holes for the screws that came with the keyboard. After seating the new keyboard unit I was able to fasten it to the aluminum frame with screws on the keyboard edges as well as in the popped rivet holes. This tutorial can be modified near the end to create a keyboard replacement tutorial. See Rivet-pop method on YouTube, 20min into this video:

    https://youtu.be/Yt8xZIDt3y4

    airshack - Contestar

  41. Carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case. Remove the trackpad from the upper case. The upper case remains.
    • Carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

    • The upper case remains.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

30 personas más completaron esta guía.

Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 18/10/12

370,494 Reputación

538 Guías creadas

Equipo

iFixit Miembro de iFixit

Community

101 Miembros

8,670 Guías creadas

helped me change out a keyboard easy to follow

maybe not hard closer to a medium challange

cord anding - Contestar

Difficulty max medium…did this in 20-30min

Little Big B - Contestar

Wonderful guide! Can’t do anything without you guys!

Rodrigo Moscoso - Contestar

As usual, a perfect guide. I was able to complete the top case replacement in roughly 30 minutes. I purchased your P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver along with the magnetized organizer mat  which certainly helped me with getting the replacement done that quickly.

James Perry - Contestar

Truly excellent guide. Carried out with Essentials Electronic Toolkit. Was actually enjoyable!

Elliot Tucker - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 Horas: 8

Últimos 7 Días: 82

Últimos 30 Días: 395

Todo El Tiempo: 18,339