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Introducción

Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board in your MacBook Air 13" Early 2015.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink on your new logic board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Contestar

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Contestar

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Contestar

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Contestar

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Contestar

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Contestar

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Contestar

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Contestar

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Contestar

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Contestar

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Contestar

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Contestar

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Contestar

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Contestar

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Contestar

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Contestar

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Contestar

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Contestar

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Contestar

  2. To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Contestar

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Contestar

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Contestar

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Contestar

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

    leonzar - Contestar

    macbook air 13" early 2015

    leonzar - Contestar

    The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!

    John McClung - Contestar

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.2 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.3 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.

    grahammartin - Contestar

  9. Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.

    Brant Smith - Contestar

  13. Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  14. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  15. Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    The I/O board does not need to be removed to remove the display.

    Macman - Contestar

    Nor for the logic board removal

    maccentric - Contestar

    The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

  16. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.9 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 3.0 mm T5 Torx screws

    what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?

    Edy Surpat - Contestar

    There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case

    maccentric -

  17. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?

    Albert - Contestar

    @albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    1. Glad someone was able to clear up the reason we need to calibrate

    2. During the process, if for some reason, say my cat waltzing all over my desk, disconnects the magsafe for a moment while in the final full charge cycle, what impact would this have?

    joshuafiddler - Contestar

    Anyone else get that the apple diagnostic tool still reports a malfunctioning battery after replacement?

    joshuafiddler - Contestar

    The replacement battery’s connector didn’t align with the port as easily as the original’s. Instead of pointing straight back from the battery, the cable pointed at a significant angle. In order to connect the new battery, I had to hold it a slight diagonal angle while connecting it, before placing the new battery into the chassis and securing it.

    After replacing the battery, the laptop (MBA early 2015) shut off immediately whenever it was unplugged from the MagSafe connector, despite reporting a full charge. To resolve this, I performed an SMC reset: I re-opened the case, unplugged the battery, held down the power button for 5 seconds with the battery unplugged, then re-connected the battery, re-attached the lid, and pressed the power button again. It immediately booted up as expected on battery power.

    Garrett Guillotte - Contestar

  18. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

  19. Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket. Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.
    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

    Omar Lopez - Contestar

    You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

    Jay Quilty - Contestar

    I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

    Jean-Pierre Bazinet - Contestar

  21. Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger. Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
    • Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

    • Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

    Stuzzington Botulism - Contestar

    Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

    Stuzzington Botulism - Contestar

  22. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  23. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

    Jo (MemePasGame) - Contestar

    Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

    maccentric -

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

    What is this cables for?

    great.ryankim - Contestar

    It’s a speaker cable

    maccentric -

  25. Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

    When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

    First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

    Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

    Rany - Contestar

    Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

    Fox MacLeod - Contestar

    I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

    Corvallis Computer - Contestar

  26. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    This is the same screws as step 17.

    Joseph Lee - Contestar

    In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

    adlerpe - Contestar

    Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

    Sam Goldheart - Contestar

  27. Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    This step is not needed

    mayer - Contestar

    It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

    This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.

    airshack - Contestar

  28. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive. Remove the right speaker from the upper case. Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

    You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

    Alexander Zub - Contestar

    I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

    If your keyboard and/or trackpad need replacing you do not have to replace the entire top case.

    airshack - Contestar

  29. Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught. During reassembly:
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • During reassembly:

    • Keep loose cables clear of the board so they aren't caught under it.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches, as highlighted in the second picture.

  30. Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  31. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

  32. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

  33. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively. Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board excessively.

    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

  34. Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

  35. When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins. The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board. Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.
    • When reassembling your device, be sure the heat sink's rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

    • The tail of the gasket should fit into the notch in the heat sink, it should not end up underneath the heat sink tab that will rest on the logic board.

    • Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches on the logic board, as highlighted in the last picture.

    This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.

    The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.

    Daniel Cassel - Contestar

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Wow, you saved me $1000 bucks! I spilled brandy on my MacBook Air and followed your instructions to completely strip it down. I followed instructions for cleaning circuit boards after a spill from another page on this site. My MacBook works perfectly now!

Your instructions were great. You might note that there is some variation in the placement of different components, ribbon connectors, etc., but I figured it out by zooming in on your pictures and finding a picture of each exact component. They look the same, even though they are in different spots. I found out you can dunk the circuit boards in 91% rubbing alcohol, clean the parts with a soft toothbrush, and let it all dry. I didn’t bother with removing and replacing the heat sink and thermal paste. After soaking in the alcohol, I saw that the heat sinks were still firmly attached thermal paste looked fine, so I left it alone. I liked your specific descriptions about which way to pull or lift the ribbon connectors, and using the right tools! Thanks!

Sharon - Contestar

I am afraid if you soaked the whole unit in alcohol, the heat sink paste is probably ruined? If the unit seems to get hot or shut off spontaneously, I would consider taking it apart AGAIN, and cleaning and relating the heat sink with fresh new thermal paste. You can clean the old paste off with Alcohol, do you see why that worries me ;~)

max damage -

Do you know where can i buy pre owned motherboard like this that can be trusted? Mine is missused and cant turn on.

triesniaf - Contestar

Can anyone please let me know where to buy Motherboard, my macbook air is not getting started. they said there is a moisture on the logic board.

Sriram Vellanki - Contestar

Hi Sriram, we have links to the motherboards (Apple calls them Logic Boards) at the top of this guide.

Sam Goldheart -

How do you determine which logic board to buy? There are two options. I’d rather not have to disassemble to find out then have to wait for delivery to put back together. Is there somewhere on a Mac site I can plug in the serial number to find out?

Colin - Contestar

If your computer is working you can look in the “About This Mac” menu to learn which processor you have, that will determine which logic board you need. Otherwise check out our “Identify your Mac” tool.

Sam Goldheart -

Replaced the logic board but only the low battery symbol came up on the screen. Water got into the computer and it sat for a while.

Kathleen Valentine - Contestar

This guide was heaven-sent! Saved my family a LOT of money. My pre-owned MBA was purchased via a third party, so when I was hit with ransomware that locked my device with a firmware lock Apple wasn’t able to help me (without proof of purchase). Replacing the logic board, while expensive, was a lot cheaper than scrapping the device and buying a brand new one.

Note to all: If you’re going to buy a Mac from a non-Apple store or official reseller, ALWAYS ask for the original proof of purchase.

Jason Sanders - Contestar

Can I leave the microphone and camera cables disconnected and still use all other functions (MacBook Air early 2015) that don’t rely on either?

Paul - Contestar

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