Introducción
Use esta guia para reemplaza la placa lógica dañaada en su MacBook Air 13" de principios del 2015
Qué necesitas
-
-
Usa un destornillador P5 Pentalobe para quitar los diez tornillos que sujetan la carcasa. Los tornillos tienen las siguientes medidas:
-
Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 9 mm
-
Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2,6 mm
-
-
-
Introduce tus dedos entre la pantalla y la carcasa y tira hacia arriba para separar la carcasa.
-
Retira la carcasa inferior y déjala a un lado.
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.
nijafe -
So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?
I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.
Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.
Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.
Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.
The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.
The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".
-
-
-
Coge la lengüeta de plástico transparente que está unida al conector de la batería y tira de ella en paralelo a la placa hacia el borde delantero del ordenador.
how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.
I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.
When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!
After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.
The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)
It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.
There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.
What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?
Yep, exactly the issue that I have
Where can i buy the battery connector?
Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?
-
-
-
Usa la esquina de un spudger para hacer palanca en el conector de entrada/salida de la tarjeta fuera de su soporte.
When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.
-
-
-
Con cuidado desprende el cable del adhesivo asegurándolo encima del ventilador.
the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.
Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.
I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…
I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!
20.00000.000$
-
-
-
Al jalar de manera cuidadosa el cable de entrada/salida hacia arriba de su conexión de la tarjeta lógica, usa la esquina de una espátula para hacer palanca en los lugares alternativos del conector para ayudar a retirar el cable fuera de su soporte.
-
Remueve el cable de entrada/salida.
pour le remontage
de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )
-
-
-
Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa de retención en el enchufe ZIF del cable del ventilador.
The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!
Thank you so much! Without your comment, I wouldn’t of realized that the ribbon cable is supposed to go into the socket (I know, dumb mistake now that I think about it). You also made me go back and correctly insert the microphone cable. Cheers!
After my repair, my fan is super loud now! Any tips?
I didn’t find any need to unplug the fan. All I did was remove the three screws which hold the fan to the case and gently fold the fan out of the way. All you are trying to do is gain enough room to route the camera cable into the little cut-out in the I/O board so it can go below the board along the edge of the fan.
I agree, BobY. I too didn't disconnect the fan cable. Those retaining flaps are so tiny it's hard even to see whether or not they are flipped up, so I was happy not to have to deal with it. That meant, however, that I had to be extra careful not to stress the fan cable when removing the fan (or more precisely, just lifting it out of the way rather than removing it completely), but I seem to have succeeded.
I wish I'd read these comments before unplugging that cable. I can't figure out how to reseat the cable so I can close the retaining flap. It would help if I could see it better, or had a better idea of how it was connected before I unplugged it.
-
-
-
Despega la junta de goma del adhesivo en la parte superior del ventilador.
When putting the computer together, pay attention to the placement of the gasket. It has a pin on the left side the enters the main board from the bottom. The right side straddles the tip of the heat pipe and there is a photo later on with close-up.
-
-
-
Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la carcasa superior:
-
Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,2 mm
-
Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3,3 mm
-
Un tornillo Torx T5 de 4,4 mm con cabeza corta
I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.
The 3.3mm Torx is actually a 4.4mm
-
-
-
Levanta el ventilador desde el lado de la placa de E/S y sácalo de la carcasa superior.
-
Al quitar el ventilador, también se desconectará el cable plano del ventilador. Ten cuidado de no engancharlo.
I didn’t find any need to remove the fan. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board by just tilting the edge of the fan nearest the I/O board up and out of the way (pretty much what is being shown in the picture above).
I agree. I had to put something under the tilted (not removed) fan in order to have room to work, but it went okay.
I removed it but it was a little tricky getting the ribbon cable back in. I was afraid it would break but it finally seated after a little wiggling.
-
-
-
Desconecte la placa de E / S retirando su cable de alimentación de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
The connector has a latch (at least mine does) that prevents it from simply sliding out. To release it, I inserted a 5/64 flathead screwdriver to lift the edge of the socket. Then the jack and cable easily slides out.
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo y sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa de E / S.
when i did this the whole socket came off the board and i had to get a replacement i/o board. Be warned, do this very carefully and avoid my mistake
If you are here to replace the logic board, you can skip steps 12-16, they’re unnecessary to replace the logic board.
How do you put this back?? I’m struggling to figure out how to get the connector back into the socket of the new I/O board
You just line it up and push it down into the socket. Straight down, not sideways.
For Display disassembly you can skip this step.
I replaced a broken display of a MB Air with the functional of another MB Air. I removed the I/O board while disassembling the first Display, then I saw the comments so I tried it out while disassembling the second display. Worked out totally fine and saved me some time.
-
-
-
Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa de retención en el conector ZIF del cable plano del micrófono.
There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.
Thanks Brant!
The note about the black tape should be in RED in the main text above. I broke off the connector thinking the tape was part of the cable assembly. Always read the comments. Always. : )
Ripped the connector off the picture was too small and I couldn’t see what part to lift.
If you click on the picture, you'll get a nice detailed blown-up view.
-
-
-
-
Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 4,1 mm que sujeta la placa de E/S a la carcasa superior.
Steps 14-15 & 28-29 seem unnecessary. I managed to replace the logic board without removing the I/O board or right speaker, although that means the logic board cannot be removed easily - the right rear corner is hindered by part of the chassis so that the edge of the logic board facing the battery should be lifted gently first and then the board be slid away from that obstructing part.
-
-
-
Con cuidado, desvía el cable de la cámara de su muesca en la placa de E/S y empújalo para que no estorbe con la punta de un spudger.
This is really tricky. I couldn't de-route the cable as long as the I/O board was still in place. Had to lift the board mostly out of place in order to get enough slack in the cable to de-route it. Otherwise, I was going to have to force the de-routing, which seemed like a really bad idea.
-
-
-
Levanta la placa de E/S desde el lado de la placa lógica y sácala de la carcasa superior.
-
Al quitar la placa de E/S también se desconectará el cable plano del micrófono. Ten cuidado de no engancharlo.
Nor for the logic board removal
The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.
how do I reattach the riibbon cable now that the adhesive has been removed?
I wonder if you weren't replacing the I/O board, BobY, but rather were doing some other repair. I say this because the microphone ribbon cable has to be disconnected from the I/O board in order to replace the I/O board, which is the repair that I was working on. And that disconnect/reconnect was definitely the fussiest part of this entire repair. Such tiny components to handle! In the end, I had to resort to using a tweezers, and even then I wasn't sure that everything was fully seated and secure.
I wasn't replacing the I/O Board, I was replacing the entire Display Assembly--I got to this step within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly. Maybe iFixit uses the same comments if they link to this same step from a different set of repair instructions? My comment was meant to convey you definitely don't need to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly.
BobY -
I got to this point (Step 16) within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly, which is where I'm entering this comment. My comment was meant to convey it isn't necessary to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly, but you certainly would need to remove the I/O Board to replace the I/O Board.
-
-
-
Retira los siguientes cinco tornillos que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:
-
Tres tornillos Torx T5 de 6.9 mm
-
Dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.0 mm
what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?
There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case
Hello,
the battery is now delivered with a transparent plastic taped allover the new battery.
is it needed or shall it be removed
kind regards
Hello,
If the plastic is easily removable from the battery, it should be removed. However, if the plastic is glued onto the battery, do not remove the plastic.
The centre screw (of the three 6.9mm T5 described above) seems to be a bit thicker diameter than the other two corner (6.9mm screws - although I don't have a tool to make precise measurement). Replace this thicker screw to its centre position on the battery.
-
-
-
Levanta la batería de su borde más cercano a la placa lógica y retírela de la caja superior.
-
Cárgala hasta el 100% y posteriormente sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.
-
Si notas alguna conducta o problema inusual después de instalar tu batería nueva, podrías necesitar restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.
Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?
@albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.
1. Glad someone was able to clear up the reason we need to calibrate
2. During the process, if for some reason, say my cat waltzing all over my desk, disconnects the magsafe for a moment while in the final full charge cycle, what impact would this have?
The replacement battery’s connector didn’t align with the port as easily as the original’s. Instead of pointing straight back from the battery, the cable pointed at a significant angle. In order to connect the new battery, I had to hold it a slight diagonal angle while connecting it, before placing the new battery into the chassis and securing it.
After replacing the battery, the laptop (MBA early 2015) shut off immediately whenever it was unplugged from the MagSafe connector, despite reporting a full charge. To resolve this, I performed an SMC reset: I re-opened the case, unplugged the battery, held down the power button for 5 seconds with the battery unplugged, then re-connected the battery, re-attached the lid, and pressed the power button again. It immediately booted up as expected on battery power.
I found these two little broken tabs under the battery. Not sure where they came from, but Ididn’t put them back in anywhere.
These are from the old battery. Not totally necessary.
Good opportunity to blow or brush away some accumulated dust from a unit like mine (5 -6 years service) when the battery is out. Also at this time, used the thin probe tool to ream out some debris from the rim of the base.
The replacement battery cable seemed too long to fit well but when I examined the original, I noted a distinct v kink downwards in that one. A gentle push down in the middle formed a V and permitted the new cable to fit Presumably without harm..
The instructions on this step say to remove the plastic film on the replacement battery, but the introduction says to leave it on. Which step is correct?
Hi William!
Good question! If the film is lightly adhered, you can peel and remove the film.
Hi how can I discharge the battery (MacBook air 2017) quickly as the battery has swollen and I need to get it out, at the moment I am running lots of apps but it still shows 6%?
max screen brightness and run some cpu benchmark
Shorting the battery is very dangerous. Leave the computer on until it shuts down on its own.
Good morning, I just replaced my first battery. The light on the magnet is red now. Will that color change to green to inform me that it is fully charged? Thanks, Julie
Re: leaving it unplugged for 5 hours after the battery goes flat - isn't that a bad thing? I thought Li-ion batteries get damaged by letting them go completely flat?
I have the same question, but from what i read the battery is still on 10% when the mac shuts down (to keep the battery healthy, so the 0% on the mac display is actually not the real battery charge)
Does anyone know what the four white (or red) dots on the underside of the battery mean?
I've got a problem with the second MBA 2017 I did a battery replacement on. Replaced the battery, charged to 100%. Drained the battery and waited 5+ hours. Now it's stuck on 1% and won't charge. I've tried SMC reset by opening it up again, disconnect the new battery, hold the power button for 5 sec, connect the battery again but without any luck. Any suggestions?
Seems like a power cycle fixed the issue (turning the computer off, unplugging the MagSafe, holding the power button for 10 sec, plugging MagSafe back in).
Installing and conditioning the new battery was a breeze with your instructions and tool. But I get a message saying the date/time was set incorrectly. I could not reset it using the date/time in system preferences and the laptop was running hot with the fan running at full blast. Instead I had to shut it down and restart it in safe mode by pushing the shift button when I heard the start up chime and releasing it when the Apple logo appeared. Once in safe mode the date/time was correct and I restarted in normal mode. It's all good now. iFixit's comments allude to chip dependent issues and your should look at their detailed comments if you are having issues on restart after install. Thanks for a great product!
-
-
-
Agarra la lengüeta plástica asida al seguro del cable de datos de la pantalla y muévela hacia la parte superior del computador.
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano del spudger para extraer ambos conectores del cable de la antena hacia arriba y fuera de sus sockets de la tarjeta AirPort/Bluetooth.
One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me
You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.
I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.
If the process is taken to replace the top case, you can leave the AirPort card hanging from the antenna wires. Only remove the card’s retaining screw and slide the card to the right (direction of the antenna connectors) to separate it from the main board.
-
-
-
Desconecta el cable conector de la cámara con la punta del spudger.
-
Tira del cable de la cámara paralelo a la superficie de la tarjeta I/O hacia el borde del Air para desconectarlo de su socket.
You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!
Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.
On getting it on — i feel it's implied by the word "push” you can walk it out with the spudger. I couldn't wanage that, and instead walked it out by taking the cord between my index and thumb and walking it out by pulling it to the right and then the left repeatedly in a
-
-
-
Usa la punta del spudger para abrir la solapa de retención del socket ZIF del cable plano del teclado retroiluminado.
-
Usa el spudger para gentilmente retirar el cable plano del teclado retroiluminado fuera del socket.
Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?
Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.
-
-
-
Usa la parte plana del spudger para levantar el cable conector del parlante derecho fuera del socket de la placa lógica.
What is this cables for?
It’s a speaker cable
This is the one that gave me the hardest time!!! It does pop up and out tho.
-
-
-
Remuevw los seis tornillos 6.3 mm T5 Torx que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa superior.
When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.
First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.
Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.
Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.
I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.
“Samsung RAM module”… do you mean the SSD? That stick of NVRAM is totally your hard drive.
Exactly, he means SSD (storage) the RAM (memory) is soldered to this 820-00165 logic board. Also on this model the 2015 MBA there is no logic board retaining screw under the SSD
-
-
-
Remueve los dos tornillos interiores 4.9 mm T8 Torx que sujetan el retenedor del cable de la antena y la bisagra embrague izquierda a la parte superior de la carcasa.
This is the same screws as step 17.
Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)
In my computer these screws were the same size as the other side’s hinge screws. All 6 are the same size.
-
-
-
Empuja el retenedor del cable de la antena un poco y remueva los tornillos 3 mm T5 Torx que sujetan el disipador de calor de la parte superior de la carcasa.
It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.
This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.
NOTE: There is a sort of clamp/washer attached to this screw that I didn’t know about until I flipped the laptop up on its side and it fell onto the desk. Also: you need to reset it *before* the motherboard
In my computer this screw was not there, nor was a related washer. I got it used so perhaps someone has already been there and did not replace the screw.
Also, the photo here shows how this end of the fan gasket is placed
.
-
-
-
Desliza la parte plana del spudger por debajo del parlante derecho desde la parte más cercana a la bisagra hasta el borde frontal del Air para soltar el adhesivo.
-
Remueve el parlante derecho de la carcasa superior.
You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.
I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.
If it is difficult to remove the speakers you can use Isopropyl Alcohol to loosen the adhesive holding the speakers in place. Make sure to keep the Isopropyl Alcohol away from the speaker itself.
-
-
-
Cuidadosamente remueve la placa lógica de la carcasa superior, teniendo en cuenta cualquier cable que pueda quedar atrapado.
-
Mantén los cables sueltos alejados de la placa así no quedaran atrapados debajo de esta.
-
Asegúrate que los cables de la antena estén en sus respectivas muescas, como se resalta en la segunda imagen.
It’s probably worth mentioning here that during reassembly you want to tuck the rubber gasket under the extension of the heat sink that the fan slots into.
-
-
-
Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2,85 mm que sujeta la SSD a la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Asegúrate de que los cables de la antena estén insertados en sus respectivas muescas en la placa lógica, como se destaca en la última imagen.
This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.
The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.
-
Para ensamblar de vuelta su dispositivo, siga las instrucciones en el orden contrario.
Lleve su basura electrónica a un recinto de reciclado certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como lo planeado? pruebe con una solución de problemas básico, o pregunte a nuestra comunidad de resdpuestas por ayuda.
Para ensamblar de vuelta su dispositivo, siga las instrucciones en el orden contrario.
Lleve su basura electrónica a un recinto de reciclado certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como lo planeado? pruebe con una solución de problemas básico, o pregunte a nuestra comunidad de resdpuestas por ayuda.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
78 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
¡ Ian Wolter nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
15 comentarios
Wow, you saved me $1000 bucks! I spilled brandy on my MacBook Air and followed your instructions to completely strip it down. I followed instructions for cleaning circuit boards after a spill from another page on this site. My MacBook works perfectly now!
Your instructions were great. You might note that there is some variation in the placement of different components, ribbon connectors, etc., but I figured it out by zooming in on your pictures and finding a picture of each exact component. They look the same, even though they are in different spots. I found out you can dunk the circuit boards in 91% rubbing alcohol, clean the parts with a soft toothbrush, and let it all dry. I didn’t bother with removing and replacing the heat sink and thermal paste. After soaking in the alcohol, I saw that the heat sinks were still firmly attached thermal paste looked fine, so I left it alone. I liked your specific descriptions about which way to pull or lift the ribbon connectors, and using the right tools! Thanks!
I am afraid if you soaked the whole unit in alcohol, the heat sink paste is probably ruined? If the unit seems to get hot or shut off spontaneously, I would consider taking it apart AGAIN, and cleaning and relating the heat sink with fresh new thermal paste. You can clean the old paste off with Alcohol, do you see why that worries me ;~)
Can anyone please let me know where to buy Motherboard, my macbook air is not getting started. they said there is a moisture on the logic board.
Hi Sriram, we have links to the motherboards (Apple calls them Logic Boards) at the top of this guide.
How do you determine which logic board to buy? There are two options. I’d rather not have to disassemble to find out then have to wait for delivery to put back together. Is there somewhere on a Mac site I can plug in the serial number to find out?
If your computer is working you can look in the “About This Mac” menu to learn which processor you have, that will determine which logic board you need. Otherwise check out our “Identify your Mac” tool.
Replaced the logic board but only the low battery symbol came up on the screen. Water got into the computer and it sat for a while.
This guide was heaven-sent! Saved my family a LOT of money. My pre-owned MBA was purchased via a third party, so when I was hit with ransomware that locked my device with a firmware lock Apple wasn’t able to help me (without proof of purchase). Replacing the logic board, while expensive, was a lot cheaper than scrapping the device and buying a brand new one.
Note to all: If you’re going to buy a Mac from a non-Apple store or official reseller, ALWAYS ask for the original proof of purchase.
How do you re-apply adhesive for when you put the right speaker back on? What adhesive should one use? Do you really need to remove the right speaker in order to take the board out? (Of course the cable needs to be disconnected.)
I was able to replace an i5 logic board with an i7 logic board on an old Macbook Air and it works perfectly thanks to this guide.
Lucky one as you found a logicboard free from issue. Sometimes surplus/used logicboard ha a "locked" concerns.
Aurora -
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - Contestar
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - Contestar
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - Contestar
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - Contestar
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - Contestar
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
Thank you
ilyabuhov - Contestar
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - Contestar
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - Contestar
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - Contestar
I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly
eric -
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - Contestar
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - Contestar
The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!
Nikolay Andreev - Contestar
Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..
joemoog - Contestar
Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.
Merci pour votre aide.
chicco33 - Contestar
oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.
Dan -
The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.
Andre Clement - Contestar
P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.
michaelquinnell - Contestar
Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.
Thomas Lewis - Contestar
To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as
Pentalobe 1.2(mm)
also
P4 = 0.8
P6 = 1.5
Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2
nijafe -
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
Sean Love - Contestar
Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .
John Brennand - Contestar
Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).
Was very easy.
New iFixit battery looks great so far:
Jonathan Cross - Contestar
can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,
hawk_lpc -
Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2
Mario Verlent - Contestar
Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.
Joel Sebastian - Contestar
Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).
Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...
Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!
Donald Niamath - Contestar
Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.
Amir Zaidi - Contestar
Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !
Billy Wong - Contestar
Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)
See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge
Fletcher Cole - Contestar
… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?
... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?
Blatt - Contestar
Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD
DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER
instead press
OPTION+CMD+R +POWER
I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015
Albert - Contestar
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.
Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.
Good luck. - Eric J.
ECJohansen - Contestar
On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.
Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.
Rich Garella - Contestar
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.
shrhh - Contestar