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Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015

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  1. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015, Cubierta inferior: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de continuar, apaga tu MacBook. Cierra la pantalla y colócala en una superficie suave con la parte superior hacia abajo.

    • Usa un destornillador P5 Pentalobe para quitar los diez tornillos que sujetan la carcasa. Los tornillos tienen las siguientes medidas:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 9 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2,6 mm

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Contestar

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Contestar

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Contestar

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Contestar

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Contestar

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Contestar

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Contestar

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Contestar

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Contestar

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Contestar

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Contestar

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Contestar

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Contestar

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Contestar

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Contestar

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Contestar

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Contestar

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Contestar

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Contestar

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Contestar

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Contestar

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Contestar

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Contestar

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Contestar

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Contestar

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Contestar

    Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD

    DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER

    instead press

    OPTION+CMD+R +POWER

    I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015

    Albert - Contestar

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.

    Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.

    Good luck. - Eric J.

    ECJohansen - Contestar

    On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.


    Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.

    Rich Garella - Contestar

    IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.

    This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.

    shrhh - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Introduce tus dedos entre la pantalla y la carcasa y tira hacia arriba para separar la carcasa.

    • Retira la carcasa inferior y déjala a un lado.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Contestar

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Contestar

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Contestar

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke - Contestar

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Contestar

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Contestar

    Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.

    Nexus - Contestar

    The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.

    The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".

    Jim Henderson - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015, Conector de Batería: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015, Conector de Batería: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • Para asegurar que todo está sin corriente eléctrica y no encenderlo mientras estemos trabajando, es recomendable que desconectes la batería.

    • Coge la lengüeta de plástico transparente que está unida al conector de la batería y tira de ella en paralelo a la placa hacia el borde delantero del ordenador.

    • No levantes el conector hacia arriba mientras lo desconectas, o te arriesgas a dañar el zócalo del conector.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - Contestar

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - Contestar

    I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.

    Kevin Epstein -

    When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!

    Connor Dougherty - Contestar

    After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.

    The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)

    It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.

    AnnoniMoose - Contestar

    There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.

    rmccord23 -

    What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?

    Carla Tisdale - Contestar

    Yep, exactly the issue that I have

    Martin Adams -

    Where can i buy the battery connector?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Contestar

    Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?

    Bernie-Khay Dabu - Contestar

    Connector socket came off, can I just glue it into place?

    Lisa Mac - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015, Cable de entrada/salida de la tarjeta: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa la esquina de un spudger para hacer palanca en el conector de entrada/salida de la tarjeta fuera de su soporte.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 5, imagen 1 de 1
    • Con cuidado desprende el cable del adhesivo asegurándolo encima del ventilador.

    • Durante el reensamble asegúrate de que este cable está en la orientación correcta. Se puede conectar de manera reversa, pero la laptop no arrancará.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - Contestar

    Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.

    Halston Halston - Contestar

    I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…

    Edward Mills - Contestar

    I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!

    Alexae Visel - Contestar

  6. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • El siguiente conector tiene un soporte especial profundo. Ten cuidado al desconectarlo.

    • Al jalar de manera cuidadosa el cable de entrada/salida hacia arriba de su conexión de la tarjeta lógica, usa la esquina de una espátula para hacer palanca en los lugares alternativos del conector para ayudar a retirar el cable fuera de su soporte.

    • Remueve el cable de entrada/salida.

    pour le remontage

    de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )

    matthiasf40 - Contestar

    A client was careless and used a fingernail to pry up the cable in one pull. It pulled the socket right off the logic board.

    w98fxr - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015, Ventilador: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa de retención en el enchufe ZIF del cable del ventilador.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la solapa de retención con bisagras, no en el enchufe en sí.

    Hi, I messed up the socket, is there a replacement for the socket that holds the fans wire.

    leonzar - Contestar

    macbook air 13" early 2015

    leonzar - Contestar

    The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!

    John McClung - Contestar

    Thank you so much! Without your comment, I wouldn’t of realized that the ribbon cable is supposed to go into the socket (I know, dumb mistake now that I think about it). You also made me go back and correctly insert the microphone cable. Cheers!

    Nolan Shaffer - Contestar

    After my repair, my fan is super loud now! Any tips?

    heathergminchen - Contestar

    I didn’t find any need to unplug the fan. All I did was remove the three screws which hold the fan to the case and gently fold the fan out of the way. All you are trying to do is gain enough room to route the camera cable into the little cut-out in the I/O board so it can go below the board along the edge of the fan.

    BobY - Contestar

    I agree, BobY. I too didn't disconnect the fan cable. Those retaining flaps are so tiny it's hard even to see whether or not they are flipped up, so I was happy not to have to deal with it. That meant, however, that I had to be extra careful not to stress the fan cable when removing the fan (or more precisely, just lifting it out of the way rather than removing it completely), but I seem to have succeeded.

    rmccord23 -

    I wish I'd read these comments before unplugging that cable. I can't figure out how to reseat the cable so I can close the retaining flap. It would help if I could see it better, or had a better idea of how it was connected before I unplugged it.

    Darrell Rydell - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Despega la junta de goma del adhesivo en la parte superior del ventilador.

    Note this is not telling you remove the gasket, just separate it from the fan.

    BobY - Contestar

    When putting the computer together, pay attention to the placement of the gasket. It has a pin on the left side the enters the main board from the bottom. The right side straddles the tip of the heat pipe and there is a photo later on with close-up.

    Yishai Sered - Contestar

    That gasket wasn't stuck on very firmly in the first place, and even less so upon completing the repair. I hope that doesn't create a problem. I would feel more confident if iFixit had included a bit of adhesive along with the new (used) I/O board.

    rmccord23 - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,2 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3,3 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 4,4 mm con cabeza corta

    I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.

    grahammartin - Contestar

    The 3.3mm Torx is actually a 4.4mm

    georgeantoniades - Contestar

    The 4.4mm and the 3.3mm will seem to strip easily but you just have to press really hard!!!

    cat - Contestar

  10. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta el ventilador desde el lado de la placa de E/S y sácalo de la carcasa superior.

    • Al quitar el ventilador, también se desconectará el cable plano del ventilador. Ten cuidado de no engancharlo.

    I didn’t find any need to remove the fan. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board by just tilting the edge of the fan nearest the I/O board up and out of the way (pretty much what is being shown in the picture above).

    BobY - Contestar

    I agree. I had to put something under the tilted (not removed) fan in order to have room to work, but it went okay.

    rmccord23 -

    I removed it but it was a little tricky getting the ribbon cable back in. I was afraid it would break but it finally seated after a little wiggling.

    Erik Bergeman - Contestar

  11. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015, I/O Board: paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Desconecte la placa de E / S retirando su cable de alimentación de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Tire del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica hacia el borde derecho del Air

    The connector has a latch (at least mine does) that prevents it from simply sliding out. To release it, I inserted a 5/64 flathead screwdriver to lift the edge of the socket. Then the jack and cable easily slides out.

    Rick Silton - Contestar

    I didn’t find any need to disconnect or remove the I/O board. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board without doing anything to the I/O board.

    BobY - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 12, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 12, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo y sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa de E / S.

    • Levanta el cabezal por debajo de los cables.

    when i did this the whole socket came off the board and i had to get a replacement i/o board. Be warned, do this very carefully and avoid my mistake

    ForceGhostJeremy - Contestar

    I didn’t find any need to do anything to the I/O board/cables. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board without doing anything to the I/O board or any of the cables attached to it.

    BobY - Contestar

    If you are here to replace the logic board, you can skip steps 12-16, they’re unnecessary to replace the logic board.

    maccentric - Contestar

    How do you put this back?? I’m struggling to figure out how to get the connector back into the socket of the new I/O board

    Katie McC - Contestar

    You just line it up and push it down into the socket. Straight down, not sideways.

    maccentric -

    For Display disassembly you can skip this step.

    I replaced a broken display of a MB Air with the functional of another MB Air. I removed the I/O board while disassembling the first Display, then I saw the comments so I tried it out while disassembling the second display. Worked out totally fine and saved me some time.

    Luis - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 13, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 13, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa de retención en el conector ZIF del cable plano del micrófono.

    • Asegúrate de levantar la solapa de retención, no el enchufe en sí.

    There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.

    Brant Smith - Contestar

    The note about the black tape should be in RED in the main text above. I broke off the connector thinking the tape was part of the cable assembly. Always read the comments. Always. : )

    Jon Lucenius - Contestar

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find a need to do any of this.

    BobY - Contestar

    Ripped the connector off the picture was too small and I couldn’t see what part to lift.

    Mo Ali - Contestar

    If you click on the picture, you'll get a nice detailed blown-up view.

    maccentric -

  14. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 4,1 mm que sujeta la placa de E/S a la carcasa superior.

    Steps 14-15 & 28-29 seem unnecessary. I managed to replace the logic board without removing the I/O board or right speaker, although that means the logic board cannot be removed easily - the right rear corner is hindered by part of the chassis so that the edge of the logic board facing the battery should be lifted gently first and then the board be slid away from that obstructing part.

    Wai Wong - Contestar

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find a need to do any of this.

    BobY - Contestar

    Steps and their numbering may have changed in the meantime.

    For pure display disassembly/reassembly you can skip Steps 13-14 and Step 16, i.e. no need to remove the I/O board.

    Luis - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 15, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 15, imagen 2 de 2
    • Con cuidado, desvía el cable de la cámara de su muesca en la placa de E/S y empújalo para que no estorbe con la punta de un spudger.

    This is really tricky. I couldn't de-route the cable as long as the I/O board was still in place. Had to lift the board mostly out of place in order to get enough slack in the cable to de-route it. Otherwise, I was going to have to force the de-routing, which seemed like a really bad idea.

    rmccord23 - Contestar

  16. Reemplazo de placa de E / S MacBook Air 13 "principios de 2015: paso 16, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levanta la placa de E/S desde el lado de la placa lógica y sácala de la carcasa superior.

    • Al quitar la placa de E/S también se desconectará el cable plano del micrófono. Ten cuidado de no engancharlo.

    The I/O board does not need to be removed to remove the display.

    Macman - Contestar

    Nor for the logic board removal

    maccentric - Contestar

    The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.

    Richard Garella - Contestar

    how do I reattach the riibbon cable now that the adhesive has been removed?

    Nolan Shaffer -

    As I mentioned in previous steps, I didn’t find any need to do this.

    BobY - Contestar

    I wonder if you weren't replacing the I/O board, BobY, but rather were doing some other repair. I say this because the microphone ribbon cable has to be disconnected from the I/O board in order to replace the I/O board, which is the repair that I was working on. And that disconnect/reconnect was definitely the fussiest part of this entire repair. Such tiny components to handle! In the end, I had to resort to using a tweezers, and even then I wasn't sure that everything was fully seated and secure.

    rmccord23 -

    I wasn't replacing the I/O Board, I was replacing the entire Display Assembly--I got to this step within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly. Maybe iFixit uses the same comments if they link to this same step from a different set of repair instructions? My comment was meant to convey you definitely don't need to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly.

    BobY -

    I got to this point (Step 16) within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly, which is where I'm entering this comment. My comment was meant to convey it isn't necessary to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly, but you certainly would need to remove the I/O Board to replace the I/O Board.

    BobY - Contestar

Conclusión

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iRobot

Miembro Desde 09/24/09

1 Reputación

636 Guías creadas

15 comentarios

Ich habe ein Macbook Air 2015 early. Das Ladekabel leuchtet nicht und die Batterie wird nicht geladen, ohne Batterie läuft das Macbook und auch solange die Batterie geladen ist läuft es einwandfrei auch ohne Ladekabel. Woher bekomme ich das I-O board und denkt ihr es liegt am I-O board oder eher irgendwo auf dem Mainboard das Problem?

Firsttry - Contestar

Man kann das I/O-board bei ebay finden, kostet nicht viel, der Austausch ist ja oben beschrieben, man muss da sehr vorsichtig vorgehen, zB das dünne, kurze Flexkabel ganz am Schluss.

Jamba -

I wish I could give more points because this saved a laptop! Killed another, but 1 is better than none.

Jonathan - Contestar

I successfully fixed my Macbook Air early 2015. Power cord LED indicator was dark and the battery was not charging. This was because my power supply blew up while stuck within the couch and went dangerously hot. Power supply died as the IO Board too.

Replacing the IO Board fixed my Macbook.

DavidW - Contestar

Hi . I replaced my IO board because the power socket was burned. With the new board the Macbook air mid 2011 was running very slow. Changed back to the old one and computer was running as normal. Any Ideas why the new IO board was slowing the computer down. The USB port in the new board was also not working.

Karl-Ivan Vikestad - Contestar

Thanks so much for putting this guide together; it worked a treat on a 2017 MacBook Air.

miles - Contestar

Thanks for this. I had a liquid spill and afterwards my IO Ribbon cable was getting extremely hot! Removed IO board, cleaned it with a sonicare toothbrush and electrical contact cleaner fluid, reassembled and now all is well

kwilliam - Contestar

Mymagsafe light indicator was not lighting up so I replaced the IO board. Unfortunately it didn’t solve the issue. What could it be?

JERAMIE ARGUETA - Contestar

i have macbook air 2015 charger light not on

eric def - Contestar

The new I/O road had a thin blue plastic adhesive film surrounding the MagSafe contacts. At first I thought it was for insulating it from the aluminum case but the old I/O board didn'‘t have an “insulator so I removed it. I hope that was correct. There was no mention of this in any of the instructions. Any advise?

Roger Diener - Contestar

Hi Roger! That sounds like protective wrapping and should be removed.

Arthur Shi -

Super bien fait, tuto parfait

BRAVO

et merci

David de Bros - Contestar

my macbook’s left I/O board and flex cable have been replaced after I spilled milk tea on it. However the battery won’t charge after the replacement and any new charger connected will charge it for a while and then stop

maaas - Contestar

The spill may have damaged the battery too.

Daniele Carminati -

I did a repair of this model, MacBook Air 13" early 2015, because the internal speakers didnt show up anymore but it was usable with headphones. So I carefully removed the I/O board and thoroughly and repeatedly cleaned the headphone jack with 99% isopropanol alcohol with Q-Tips and now sound came back to life. There is a little spring inside the jack that jammed.

Jamba - Contestar

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