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MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Lower Case: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    Comprar
    • Before proceeding, close your computer and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the eight 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    I recommend that one of the tools you obtain is a jeweler's loupe that mounts on your glasses. It makes things easier.

    blairweaver - Contestar

    This is not correct. You need the pentalobe tool at this point.

    Duane Hellums - Contestar

  2. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  3. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.

  4. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Solid-State Drive: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    What happens if the 2.9mm t5 screw got stripped?

    Charles - Contestar

    So when i change my ssd in mac do i have to reinstall Mac OS

    sai prahalad Alluri - Contestar

    Correct, the SSD does not come with OS preinstalled. To install the OS you can completely clone your existing hard drive or you will need to create a bootable flash drive and format your SSD and create a partition in order to be able to install the OS.

    Ethan Lockwood -

    So my wife spilled a Martini on her MacAir and it no longer works and is not repairable, all her music and pictures are stored on the drive, I would like to transfer these files to another drive. What is needed to read the drive once removed?

    prastonis - Contestar

  5. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 5, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 5, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use a spudger to help lift the free end of the SSD just enough to grab it with your other hand.

    • Do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    I performed all the steps above and fitted a Transcend JetDrive 500 which was very easy however when I re-assembled and turned on all I get is a question mark in the middle of the screen, can you explain if I did anything wrong?

    Ian Ashton - Contestar

  6. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board Cable: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

  7. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  8. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Fan: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  9. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  10. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

  11. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: paso 11, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: paso 11, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.

    This is the same as step 3 isn't it?

    No Name - Contestar

  12. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 12, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    Don’t be like me! Make sure you use the *other* screw driver, not the one you took the case off with. I got five of them out with the wrong screwdriver, stripped the head on the sixth, got it out with a screw extractor, cut a new slot in it so I could use a normal flat head screw driver on it to put it back in, and then realized….

    Sarah Stockton - Contestar

  13. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    I need to point out here that the replacement battery that I bought here at iFixit for this MacBook Air says that the battery calibration consists on draining the battery below 10%, then charging it uninterruptedly to 100%, but this is not consistent with the battery calibration that appears on this guide. Which one should I follow? Any additional thoughts on this? Thanks.

    Rafael Pérez - Contestar

    Hi Rafael,

    We updated our battery calibration technique recently. The most reliable way would be to follow the guide method (charge full + 2 hours, drain completely, charge full again).

    Arthur Shi -

    This was wonderfully easy-peasy! I just have one small suggestion: you might add a word (and a photo would be great), reminding folks that they need to connect the new battery connector. I know, it should (ok, it is! :) obvious and all… but I have to admit, after having my hand held so well through the rest of the process, having to engage brain again and realize that needed to be done (“what’s missing here?”) - took a moment. It was a bit nervous-making, too, since the new battery cable was quite stiff, resistant to bending, and I had to apply a wee bit of brute force and ignorance to position and connect the connector. Adding a note about that might be useful. Just a thought! Otherwise, super easy and straight forward - I feel so empowered! :)

    Suzanne Bell - Contestar

  14. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.

  15. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 15, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 15, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  16. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 16, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the right speaker cable from the slot cut into the logic board.

  17. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

  18. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 18, imagen 1 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 18, imagen 2 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 18, imagen 3 de 3
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

  19. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 19, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case near the display data cable.

  20. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    Heads up when replacing a late 2010 display with a 2011 or later... On later model Airs the wifi card orientation changed, which causes two issues: 1) the antenna cables are longer on the newer displays, so you have excess wire to deal with, 2) On 2010 displays the longer wire goes on the antenna port closer to the battery, on 2011 and later displays the longer cable goes on the port further from the battery (flip-flopped). If you switch them up, your wifi reception will be terrible

    John - Contestar

  21. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 21, imagen 1 de 1
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

  22. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

  23. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Gently lift the logic board assembly out of the upper case, minding the fragile heat sink and any cables that may get caught.

  24. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: paso 24, imagen 1 de 1
    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the rear edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

  25. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 25, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case nearest the I/O board.

  26. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 26, imagen 1 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 26, imagen 2 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 26, imagen 3 de 3
    • Peel up the six cable loops securing the antenna cables to the upper case.

    • Gently pull the cable loops slightly out of the channel cut into the upper case one at a time.

    • Use your spudger to open up the plastic loops as you de-route the antenna cables through them.

    • Repeat this for all five retaining loops.

    The last cable loop on the right side, was actually stuck around the screw which hold the I/O board.

    A hole was specially made in the cable loop, it was not an assembling error.

    So I had to remove this screw to be able to peel the cable loop.

    Julien Vollekindt - Contestar

    I actually did the lcd only repair but this guide led me through getting the display out and reassembly. I would recommend this particular guide to anyone! Professional technician or hobbyist.

    Stephen Napoleon - Contestar

  27. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 27, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 27, imagen 2 de 2
    • Remove the outer 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing each display hinge to the upper case (two screws total).

    The screws on my hinges are actually T9 size. A T8 driver worked to unscrew them, but I noticed that the driver "spun" a little when I screwed one back in, and discovered that a T9 driver fit perfectly.

    edward - Contestar

    Tried to edit a comment from earlier, but had to delete and start over. I echo Edward's comment but stronger: Try a T-9 before you try a T-8. Or you could end up completely stripping the head before you can even react (one turn, in my case). Then you're left staring at a $500 screw stuck in your MBA case...

    bshigenaka - Contestar

  28. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 28, imagen 1 de 1
    • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  29. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 29, imagen 1 de 1
    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  30. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 30, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 30, imagen 2 de 2
    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    • Keep track of the shims under each of the two display brackets. When installing the display, be sure a shim is installed under each display bracket (against the upper case) as shown in the third picture.

    Is there a way to tighten the display hinge?

    Steve - Contestar

  31. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: paso 31, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: paso 31, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

  32. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 32, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 32, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  33. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 33, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 33, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    • De-route the left speaker cable from the notch cut into the I/O board.

  34. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 34, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  35. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 35, imagen 1 de 1
    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  36. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 36, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 36, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.

    • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

  37. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 37, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 37, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the side of the upper case.

    • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

    • Upper case remains.

  38. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: paso 38, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: paso 38, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up the retaining flap on the trackpad data cable ZIF connector.

    • Be careful to pry on the hinged flap, not the connector itself; the connector is delicate and may break.

    • Gently slide the trackpad ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  39. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 39, imagen 1 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 39, imagen 2 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 39, imagen 3 de 3
    • With one hand, lift the keyboard ribbon cable up and push it slightly away from the trackpad to access the ZIF connector underneath.

    • Use a spudger tip to pry up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    • Be careful to pry on the hinged flap, not the connector itself; the connector is delicate and may break.

    • Gently slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  40. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 40, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the six 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screws that secure the trackpad assembly to the upper case.

  41. MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 41, imagen 1 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 41, imagen 2 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: paso 41, imagen 3 de 3
    • While supporting the upper case, press up on the side of the trackpad closest to the logic board.

    • Remove the trackpad.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Brett Hartt

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3 comentarios

There is a T5 screw-thing in the upper case below the track pad. Adjusting this changes the play in the track pad 'click', though be careful since nothing stops it from being screwed too far in. It's not mentioned in the guide, but if you're replacing the upper case you will want to make sure the screw is installed and adjusted to your clicking taste!

netherby - Contestar

netherby makes a good point about the tension screw for the trackpad!

This is a funny headless screw which goes in between the trackpad and the edge of the upper case. I pulled the trackpad from the old case without noticing this, reassembled to find the trackpad all weirdly loose. Tension screw fixed it.

Max Weiss -

The hard case is great for putting in my backpack and not worrying about the computer getting damaged. http://bestapplecases.com/best-macbook-a...

nuna - Contestar

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