Introducción

Use esta guia para reemplazar el Microprocesador CPU.

Al remover la placa base ( logic board ) deberá [guia|744|reemplazar la capa de compuesto térmico en pasta].

Antes de iniciar cualquier trabajo en su Mac Pro: Desenchufe la computadora y mantenga presionado el botón de encendido por diez segundos para descargar los capacitores de la fuente de energía.

Tenga mucho cuidado no toque los capacitores o cualquier punto de soldadura expuestos en la parte posterior de la fuente de energía. Solo manipule la placa por los bordes.

Herramientas

No se requieren herramientas.

Partes

No se requieren partes.

  1. Desliza el interruptor de bloqueo hacia la derecha, hasta la posición de desbloqueo.
    • Desliza el interruptor de bloqueo hacia la derecha, hasta la posición de desbloqueo.

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  2. Levanta la caja exterior directamente hacia arriba del Mac Pro.
    • Levanta la caja exterior directamente hacia arriba del Mac Pro.

    • Puede ayudar empujar hacia abajo el centro del ventilador mientras levanta la caja.

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    • Quita los cinco tornillos Torx T10 de 5.1 mm de todo el perímetro exterior del ensamblaje del ventilador.

    You don't have to remove the fan assy to get to the wifi board & card. It can be done with the fan assy still attached.

    Fat Mango - Contestar

    Fat Mango is correct. That said. If you do pull the fan assembly note that the screws are all held in with blue Permatex and breaking them free takes a fair amount of effort. Getting a good set of Torx screwdrivers is a must.

    Jim WIlson - Contestar

    • El ensamblaje del ventilador está conectado al resto de la computadora mediante dos cables en el lado de la placa de E/S.

    • Incline el ensamblaje hacia arriba alejándolo de la placa de E/S.

    • No intentes extraer el ensamblaje del ventilador todavía, ya que aún está conectado por dos cables.

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    • Mientras sostienes el ensamblaje del ventilador con una mano, afloja los dos tornillos cautivos T7 en el soporte del cable del ventilador.

    • Estos tornillos están atrapados en la Mac Pro. No intentes quitar estos tornillos de tu Mac Pro.

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these are T8 screws. In fact, there were no T7 screws anywhere in my machine.

    mark33 - Contestar

    • Usa un par de pinzas para tirar del soporte del cable del ventilador y alejarlo del ensamblaje del ventilador.

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    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el cable plano del ensamblaje del ventilador de la placa de E/S.

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    • Desconecte el cable de la antena del ensamblaje del ventilador de la placa E/S.

    • Retira el ensamblaje del ventilador del Mac Pro.

    You don't have to remove the fan assy to do the steps below. They can be done with the fan assy still attached.

    Fat Mango - Contestar

    • Coloca la Mac Pro boca abajo, a 180 grados.

    • Retira los cinco tornillos Torx T10 de 5.1 mm del perímetro exterior de la caja inferior.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Levanta con cuidado la caja inferior y retírala del Mac Pro.

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  3. Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger y un movimiento de giro para separar suavemente un lado de la conexión de datos de la tarjeta gráfica.

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    • Separa suavemente el otro lado también.

    • Levanta el conector hacia arriba y hacia afuera de la tarjeta gráfica.

    • Repite este procedimiento en la otra tarjeta gráfica.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T7 de 6,0 mm que sujetan la placa de interconexión al disipador de calor.

    These are actually 6.0mm T8 Torx Screws. 12/07/2016.

    Todd - Contestar

    Ended up being T9 screws for me.

    Nathaniel Wilson - Contestar

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these are T8 screws. In fact, there were no T7 screws anywhere in my machine.

    mark33 - Contestar

    • Desliza suavemente la placa de interconexión hacia arriba para sacarla de la conexión de la ranura de la placa lógica.

    • Se recomienda levantar un lado y luego el otro.

    • No intentes remover la placa de interconexión del Mac Pro todavía, ya que todavía está conectada a la placa de E / S.

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    • Gira la placa de interconexión hacia arriba y otra vez, exponiendo el cable de datos de la placa E/S

    • Haz el mismo tipo de movimiento de giro y extensión con el extremo plano de un spudger para separar un lado del cable de datos de la placa E/S.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para separar el otro lado del cable de datos de la placa E/S.

    • Dobla el cable y retira la placa de interconexión de la Mac Pro.

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    • Da la vuelta al Mac Pro y colócalo suavemente sobre una superficie plana.

    • Recomendamos colocar el Mac Pro en la esquina del disipador de calor y los dos postes de tornillo de separación que se unen a la placa de interconexión.

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    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.6 mm de los lados de la caja de la fuente de alimentación (uno en cada lado).

    those are t4 screws in my mac

    Andrzej Kiryluk - Contestar

    • Retira la caja de la fuente de alimentación de la parte superior de la fuente de alimentación.

    • Al retirar esta caja, estás exponiendo los componentes internos de la fuente de alimentación. Ten mucho cuidado de no tocar ninguno de los componentes o circuitos de la fuente de alimentación.

    • Ten cuidado de no dejar caer ningún tornillo o herramienta en la fuente de alimentación, ya que esto puede dañar la fuente de alimentación.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Torx T8 de 5.5 mm que sujetan el ensamblaje de la fuente de alimentación al Mac Pro.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira el ensamblaje de la fuente de alimentación del Mac Pro.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T8 de 5.5 mm.

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    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Torx T10 de 12,8 mm del soporte del disipador de calor de la CPU.

      • Retira solo los cuatro exteriores de los ocho tornillos.

    I cannot unscrew one of those because I appears that one of the elements in wich it is screwd underneath is loose and moving along with the screw, making this operation impossible. Anyone had this issue ?? Any solution ??

    benjaminmonnoyeur - Contestar

    I had the same problem. These screws go into threaded inserts, which in turn are screwed into the heatsink. Both have threadlocker compound applied. So the threaded insert’s threadlocker gives up first, and the threaded insert unscrews from the heatsink. Remove all 4 screws, then with a pair of needle nose pliers, hemostat, or thin 7mm wrench, hold the insert steady and unscrew the screw from it.

    Chuck Fry - Contestar

    Could I remove these screws and re-screw? I worry that remove them but I can’t re-use them?

    timmy123 -

    • En este punto, la placa lógica está sujeta al disipador de calor mediante un compuesto térmico.

    • Es posible que debas hacer palanca suavemente con un spudger para separar la placa lógica del disipador de calor.

      • Ten mucho cuidado de no doblar y romper la placa lógica.

    • Retira la placa lógica del disipador de calor.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los cuatro tornillos internos Torx T10 de 12.8 mm del soporte del disipador de calor de la CPU.

    • Retira el soporte del disipador de calor de la CPU.

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these screws are covered with a black sticker presumably to indicate tampering. If you did not know they were screws it would not be obvious. You have to just put the T10 driver right in the center and start turning; it quickly breaks through the sticker.

    mark33 - Contestar

    • Retira el segundo soporte del disipador de calor.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Levanta y retira la placa lógica de la CPU y el soporte.

    • Durante el reensamble, asegúrate de limpiar y reemplazar el compuesto térmico en la CPU.

    • Tenemos una guía de pasta térmica que facilita el reemplazo del compuesto térmico.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira la CPU del soporte de la CPU.

    • La CPU permanece.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de limpiar y reemplazar el compuesto térmico en la CPU.

    • Tenemos una guía de pasta térmica que facilita el reemplazo del compuesto térmico.

    The trickiest part of reassembly was attaching the CPU heat sink bracket. Some instructions for that might help. Quite a lot of force on the bracket is needed to get the screws in, due to the spring-loaded nature of the bracket.

    mark33 - Contestar

Conclusión

Para re-ensamblar su computadora, siga las instrucciones en sentido inverso

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So this means I can buy the smallest Mac Pro now and upgrade the CPU in a few years, right? I like you guys! :)

Ben - Contestar

Yes, Ben, you could. 2nd hand CpU's are available on eBay, Amazon and various companies. Review suitability of your proposed CPU that it will fit the socket FCLGA2011, and pay attention to voltage. ECC support, and TDP. Switching CPU isn't an easy task and it has risks replacing it.

aramis -

I just replaced the cheapest 4-core version with the 12 core 2697v2.

This saved me around $700 + i can sell the 4 core.

Christer Jonsson - Contestar

Can you please provide some benchmarks, i wish to do the same, but need to see if doing this myself creates any problems

Habib Kalia -

How much did it cost for the new CPU? How much did you get for the old one?

John Cathey -

Just replace it? No need to change bios?

vader0401 -

I didn't need to change anything, no update required: booted into OS X and the CPU was detected.

aramis -

Can / Could I also use an E7?

Peter Reif - Contestar

Pete, here are a few places to look for an E7 CPU to see if it will fit/work in the Mac Pro late 2013 with the FCLGA2011 socket. Check for voltage, ECC support and TDP (base 130 watts for default CPU's) and other specs: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/index.h... and search for socket 2011 compatibility. Also, check http://ark.intel.com/search/advanced?s=t... , this is Intel's database for its products; it appears only the E7v2 and E7v3 may fit the board. Do your homework and find a suitable CPU. This way I found that my replacement E5-2687Wv2 would work.

aramis -

STEP 23

I can not remove the screws . A screw is changed shape ....

What can I do ? Any help?. I am going wrong .. Thanks so much...!

acabanillas00 - Contestar

i had the same issue ! Very strange. I wonder why tho ! Is it because of apple warranty or juste a random issue. I’m gonna have my unit check by some pros …

benjaminmonnoyeur -

Got it down to the cpu bracket and I'm now confronted with 4 screws that are round and have no space for a screwdriver. Does anybody have experience with this??? What a nightmare!!!

Jesse Billson - Contestar

Jesse Billson and acabanillas00, you've run into Apple's new tamper-evident screw stickers. Before you proceed, please note that removing these screws will leave behind clear evidence to Apple that you've been inside the computer, leaving you no wiggle room on your warranty. To remove the screws, first press down with the T10 screwdriver around the centers of the circles, where you would expect the holes to be, and you'll tear right through the stickers (you may have to blindly rotate the screwdriver a bit to get it to line up correctly, since the stickers conceal the holes). Then, just unscrew as normal.

A couple more notes: new Mac Pro 2013's started shipping with these CPU screw stickers some time in 2015, and if you take an older Mac Pro 2013 in for repair, Apple will quietly add the stickers if, during the repair process, they end up stripping the computer down to the CPU bracket.

I haven't found a satisfactory method for preserving the stickers, nor a replacement, but I imagine it could be done...

davidmatics -

An added note: When reinstalling the CPU riser board, Apple sets the torque of the screws to 10.5lbs/in. This might effect the heat transfer capabilities, or performance of the processor itself.

Shmajay - Contestar

Completed E5-1650v2 (default 6-core 3.5GHz CPU) upgrade to an E5-2687Wv2 8-core 3.4GHz CPU. Scariest job done ever. Geekbench 4 results Mono/Multi Core: E5-1650v2 (default CPU) 3688/15900 with loads of OS X stuff running in the background, E5-1650v2 (default CPU) 3901/17425 after switching off background processes, then E5-2687Wv2 (upgraded CPU) 3989/22447 with loads of OS X stuff running in the background. Comments on the process above: check your bit size prior to applying your driver, as I found just a few screws having a different bit size than explained above (too small i.e. 5 vs 7, or 8). Also, power supply assembly is hard to put back into place as was before: it's all a very tight fit! Don't force, simply retry fitting if it doesn't fit the first time. Extra information: after original CPU removed, it's a bit tricky to get the new CPU in place as you'll be putting the motherboard on TOP of the CPU according to the process above. Hope this helps.

aramis - Contestar

Swapped a E5-2667 V2 into a base quad-core 1620. Considerably faster on multicore tasks. ;)

Not difficult at all - take your time and have some sort of organizer for the various screws you remove. And a torque wrench is a good thing to use so you don’t under- or over-tighten anything.

Bob - Contestar

Thanks much for this guide. I just completed installation of an E5-2697v2 (the same 12-core CPU that Apple ships) that I purchased off eBay for $550. I found a few things that were not quite accurate and left notes above in the relevant steps. Basically, both places that claim that the screws are T7 were actually T8 in my machine (apparently assembled in mid-2017 due to the fact that it came with Sierra 10.12.6 installed). Also, as a previous comment noted, my machine also had tamper-evident screws holding the CPU heat sink bracket (step 25). The T10 driver makes short work of the stickers. By far the trickiest part of the reassembly was installing the CPU heat sink bracket. After starting screws on one side of it, it takes considerable force to bend it down enough to get the screws on the other side started. And it’s hard because at the same time you have to keep the CPU from falling out on the opposite side. Really not too hard. Just get a nice work area with plenty of light and keep track of your screws.

mark33 - Contestar

Just achieved this, swapping the built-in 4 Cores for a 2d hand E5-2690v2 3GHz 10 core, bought on eBay for 370€ (add 10% for $). Definitely worth the price : multi core geekbench increased from 10600 to 22400 !! Definitely don’t recommend the 2697 which is twice the price for only 10% more power above the 2690

Thanks for the guide !

Just a note : the 2 bottom screws were T8 on mine aswell.

Vincent Monteil - Contestar

please help me

bronxbcn -

Hello, this is a little off topic, but was wondering if anyone has figured out how to run the Mac Pro 2013 with the cylinder shell removed? I want to do some bench testing with it off.

Mike S - Contestar

Hello please . Can anybody help me? e bought an E5-2690v2 for my mac pro 6.1 all the perfect change but when it takes a long time of stress working with 4k it shuts down and throws me an error. I do not know what to do I'm desperate I bought it instead of the 2697 for the many comments and for the money I had available now I'm very disappointed I can not find a solution and changed the processor 4 times to discard more components but with the serial 1620 there are no errors but it is much slower please help me :) sorry my english use translator I only speak spanish. thanks greetings

bronxbcn - Contestar

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