Qué necesitas
-
-
Usa tus dedos o una espátula de nailon para quitar los pies del mouse especificados para revelar los tornillos.
-
-
-
-
Una vez que hayas quitado el pasador, usa un destornillador Phillips n.º 00 para quitar el tornillo de 7,5 mm del soporte de la rueda de desplazamiento.
-
Una vez que se quita el soporte de plástico de la rueda de desplazamiento, la rueda de desplazamiento queda libre y se puede levantar.
The scroll wheel isn’t free at this point, it’s still being held in place by the plastic arms and is pretty hard to take out.
Lol thats not even the last step. There are pins on the side which is the hardest part to do.
In my case I only had to clean the sensor
-
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
22 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
¡ Francisco Javier Saiz Esteban nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
Equipo
UW Tacoma, Team S3-G1, Liner Spring 2017 Miembro de UW Tacoma, Team S3-G1, Liner Spring 2017
UWT-LINER-S17S3G1
4 Miembros
11 Guías creadas
3 comentarios
Reverse order to reassemble, as usual, is not the right solution :(, for me it worked to place the plastic back horizontally (not in diagonal like on step 3) and then push really hard from the middle to the end of the mouse, till it clicks. Btw I needed to open my mouse because right click started to fail, and now left click as well, it seems the electronic part works ok, but the tiny coshing that press on it got deformed and is barely clicking it now, I need to add something there like a paper to gain 1 mm so it can be pressed back
In mine the laser suddenly stopped working. I followed this guide to some extent to try and see if reconnecting the cable would fix it.
Some notes:
- If you want to keep the mouse feet, take care to get them off completely and not in two layers.
- There is a plastic clip at the left side of the housing holding top and bottom together, just above the thumb rest. It will break if forced open.
- The white/ blue flatcable sticking out at the back side at exhibit 4-A is the one that goes to the laser. If you have the same issue, reconnect it and stop here.
- If you want to take the mouse apart any further, there are 2 more screws hidden in the black plastic part that holds the scroll wheel housing (which will also break if forced open).
If you hadn't figured by now, I will be going to the store for a new one later today.
I do not know if re-seating the flatcable resolved the issue.
The scroll wheel does not just "lift out". The clear plastic is quite tight with very little give.
Also, that metal bracket has to be removed to get it out which will require the two tricky little springs to be unhooked and removed.
Once that is done getting the wheel free as is seen in the last photo is still a bit tricky.
What worked for me:
Grasp the forward exposed part of the wheel with fingers of one hand and the plastic housing with fingers of the other.
While applying constant pulling pressure, pop the "concave" side out first (there is a slight difference in the axle stub lengths), then rock it slightly to pop the "convex" side out.
It took me 20 minutes of careful spudger prying, and finger pressing and pulling before accidentally popping it out in this way.
Hopefully it all goes back together as easy.
