Introducción
Here's what you'll need:
- a screwdriver
- a little bit of a steady hand
- preferably use an anti-static device so you don't fry any chips on the mainboard!
in most cases it will void your warranty! which doesn't cover this issue anyway, because it is by design, and as such, intentional.
Qué necesitas
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since we don't know if we're going to remove the PCB, or if it's fixed to the knobs, it's best to remove all plastic caps
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when you flip the device over you can remove the bottom, just gently lift it straight up.
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first remove all screws marked in yellow. put them in a bag or box, so you don't lose them.
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to fix the display issue, you won't need to remove the whole PCB!
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Remove the screws marked in orange and put them in a bag or box
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the issue with the displays is caused by the main PCB lowering slightly when you hit the pads. They display is fixed too tightly to the front panel.
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Lift the pcb straight off the frontpanel.
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I put it in the bottom panel, so I could test if the issue persisted on the PCB. I also inspected the PCB for oxidation to make sure it wasn't water damage, since I got it second hand.
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After plugging in the device, and fiddling with the display connection to the right it turned out to be functioning properly, but looked broken due to a design flaw.
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after fixing the connection I layed out my front panel. Note the USB fixing bracket on the left display, this should be attached to the PCB before putting it back in it's place
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After putting back the PCB, tighten the screws marked in yellow. These should be fixed. Don't overtighten them, but they should keep the pcb in it's place.
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it's VERY IMPORTANT you don't overtighten the screws marked in orange. These fix the displays to the front panel, but also pull up the displays, causing them to disconnect. They do not serve any purpuse for grounding the PCB, so you can leave a bit of clearance.
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you can test it first, which I'd recommend. If it now functions properly put the bottom of the housing back on, tightening the screws from step 3. Again, do not overtighten, as the housing is made of plastic which can crack from excessive stress.
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Nice, it works. No need for expensive servicing!
Nice, it works. No need for expensive servicing!
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13 comentarios
You are the man! I followed your tutorial and now it works like a charm. I had to take the connectors on the display off/on to make it work.
Thanks a lot!
Do you mean you resoldered the connections? I hadn’t begun to do that, but might need to as it’s definitely not a permanent fix (though it does still work better than before).
Hi there - I’ve attempted this repair twice now and in both cases the screens return to normal for a short while and then revert to flickering after an hour or two of use. I’ve followed these instructions meticulously, keeping the internal screws behind the display fairly loose so as not to put pressure on them - but this does not seem like a permanent fix at all.
If the issue is the pins connecting the display to the mainboard, is there anything that can be done to “lengthen” them or ensure a better, more consistent connection?
Nope, probably not, it’s a design flaw. maybe bend the pins outward ever so slightly, just don’t get mad at me if that breaks the unit completely though. If you still have warranty, NI should be able to replace the unit. If not you could try and harass them until they cave and send you a new unit, but they’re not known for doing that. They’re well aware of the issue, but I don’t know if they fixed it in mk3.
You could also try making the connection into a ribbon cable, but there’s not a lot of room for that.
In my opinion they should’ve used springs instead of the pins, just like newer intel processors do.
Ive had it awhile so def not under warranty. I’ll try the pin bend trick and report back.
