Dificultad
Difícil
Pasos
14
Tiempo Requerido
Guía Destacada
Esta guía ha sido valorada como excepcionalmente genial por el personal de iFixit.
Introducción
Newer generations of iPhone, iPod nano, and iPod touch have batteries that are soldered directly to the logic board. This makes replacing the battery a much harder feat than other iPod and iPhone models, who use connectors to attach the battery to the logic board. This guide illustrates the various levels of difficulty in soldering, and teaches the technique of soldering three types of connections commonly seen in electronic gadgets:
Step 1: Beginning — Large thru-hole components, such as cylindrical capacitors;
Step 7: Intermediate — Small thru-hole components, such as battery leads and resistors; and
Step 11: Advanced — Small surface-mount components.
Partes
No se especificaron partes.
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A capacitor was already removed from the two solder pads. Each pad was heated while the capacitor was pulled away from the board.
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To solder each connection:
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Place the tip of the soldering iron against the solder pad.
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Melt just enough solder onto the solder pad so that the capacitor's contact lead holds firmly in place.
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Remove both the solder and the soldering iron tip from the connection as soon as enough solder melts onto the pad.
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The leads were removed from the solder pads by heating the joint on the top side of the board, while pulling out the leads with a pair of tweezers.
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To solder each connection:
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Place the tip of the soldering iron against the solder pad.
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Melt just enough solder onto the solder pad so that the contact leads hold firmly in place.
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Remove both the solder and the soldering iron tip from the connection as soon as enough solder melts onto the pad.
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To de-solder the joint, place a solder wick on top of the existing solder ball and press down on the solder wick with the soldering iron.
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Once the solder melts and flows into the wick, remove the wick from the joint.
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Repeat the same procedure on the remaining leads.
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To solder the new leads to the board, place the bare end of one lead onto the bead of solder on its corresponding solder pad.
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Press the tip of the soldering iron onto the solder bead until it melts.
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Slide the exposed end of the lead into the liquid solder until it is in the center of the bead, then remove the soldering iron.
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Continue with the other connections the same way, taking special care not to solder two of the pads together.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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21 Comentarios
TIP: Another method which works well for clearing solder from holes (especially on repairs like AC Jacks on laptops) is to use compressed air to clear melted solder from holes. A quick blast with a duster can works well (I have even used a drink straw in a pinch and blown out with a blast of air from mouth). Heat the solder until it liquefies, put the duster straw right above the solder and quickly hit the melted solder with an air blast to instantly clear the hole of solder. This works well on very small holes as melted solder does not always push out cleanly with metal tools. You have to be quick with the air blast because the solder re-hardens rapidly.
This is not IPC standards but for the ghetto approach, it will get the job done. I solder in manufacture settings, run my own shop. This is wrong to a degree but will do. If ifixit would like tips from ILLFIXIT then your more then welcome!
A very good guide to soldering.
I have never soldered anything (I'm a girl you see), but your clear and detailed guidance inspired me to give it a go.
I was well prepared in advance-it could be difficult-and that helped a lot.
I have now got a new battery soldered into my Palm TX and I'm as happy as Larry (or Lorraine in this case)..
Using a solder wick braid is a good thing to do every time you are trying to remove solder from the thru-hole and pad. This is because after you use the solder wick you have a clean hole and a clean pad with just a slight film of solder on it and you have a nice open workspace without any old solder in there. Old solder doesn't have solder flux anymore -it's burned off-and won't "flow" around the component or wire leads and leaves an icy-looking "cold" solder joint, a dull grey glob of solder that is weak and doesn't conduct electricity very well. By wicking it off, the new solder, which does have solder flux, will be shiny, smooth, quite strong and conductive. I've been soldering since the early 70's and solder wick is a good friend if you use it right. No need for staples or picks, either.
