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Introducción

Use this guide to replace the battery in your Google Pixel. With daily use, a typical battery will last around 18-24 months before losing significant capacity. If your phone has to be recharged constantly or turns off suddenly, replacing the battery may be a solution.

Warning: Because of the strong adhesive securing the display and minimal clearance for inserting your tools, it’s easy to accidentally damage the display during this procedure. Follow the instructions carefully and observe all warnings to increase your odds of success.

Before disassembling your phone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

  1. Turn off the device.
    • Turn off the device.

    • Prepare an iOpener to heat the edges of the display and soften the adhesive underneath. Alternatively, you may use a heat gun or a hair dryer.

    • The surfaces near the speaker and microphone (top and bottom respectively) have larger adhesive sections. These areas may require slightly longer heat exposure. The display should be heated until it's slightly too hot to touch, for roughly two minutes.

    When reassembling, does the adhesive still hold the phone together when closed or do we need to apply more adhesive?

    Jess Haddow - Contestar

    Unfortunately also cracked my display on the way in. You have to go pretty deep under the top and bottom of the screen but BARELY in around the sides, especially the corners. If I had to do it over again, I would have either tried a playing card or put some type of depth limit/mark on my pick so I didn’t go more than a few millimeters in.

    Matthew Jastremski - Contestar

    Use plenty of heat here and take your time. Start from the top, then the sides. use a gentle prying motion with the picks but don’t go too deep.

    Richard Wood - Contestar

    It’s EXTREMELY easy to crack the screen. Just buy a new display module before fixing it. The old screen will be disposable.

    Buyi Yu - Contestar

    Don’t even waste your time with the iOpener. I went straight for the hair dryer and opening picks took 30 mins to get the screen off with no issues.

    eric duchene - Contestar

    The iOpener was totally useless for me. My phone just sucked the heat out of it and dissipated it (which is what it’s supposed to do with heat, but that didn’t make it easy to get the adhesive loose). Instead, I actually ended up putting mine in the toaster oven, which has an electric broiler that works great for this. It heats up fast, though, so watch out…..

    Kael Shipman - Contestar

  2. In the following steps, you will separate the display panel by slicing though the adhesive bonding the display to the Pixel's chassis. For reference, the back of the display panel is shown at left. Note the narrow clearance between the side of the display unit and the OLED panel. Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.
    • In the following steps, you will separate the display panel by slicing though the adhesive bonding the display to the Pixel's chassis.

    • For reference, the back of the display panel is shown at left. Note the narrow clearance between the side of the display unit and the OLED panel.

    • Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

    • Use a suction handle to pull up on the display and create a slight gap between the display and the phone's chassis.

    • If your display is cracked, cover it with packing tape to help the suction cup adhere and prevent glass shards from popping loose.

  3. Insert an opening pick or a playing card into the gap between the chassis and the display assembly. Begin to slide the opening pick around the edge of the display, cutting through the adhesive that secures it. The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.
    • Insert an opening pick or a playing card into the gap between the chassis and the display assembly.

    • Begin to slide the opening pick around the edge of the display, cutting through the adhesive that secures it.

    • The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

    I needed a stronger tool than the provided guitar picks to actually get between the glass and the frame. Had to use a metal tool to get in there. Once I could get in, things went fairly smoothly.

    Only mistake after that was not getting a great seal on the glue when reassembling the phone so now the glass toward the bottom of the screen doesn’t completely stay in place. :(

    Steve Johnson - Contestar

    Dang! Metal is a scary choice, but I’m glad it worked out for the most part. That’s good to know. You could try re-heating the adhesive around the part of the screen that isn’t staying in place, and then putting the phone under a stack of books for an hour or so! That might get it to seal up completely.

    Taylor Dixon -

    I got the glass free by using plenty of heat, an x-acto knife to start the opening and playing cards under the glass to break the glue. I did not use the suction cup because it kept feeling like it would break the glass.

    Michael Hendricks - Contestar

    +1 to Michael Hendricks. I ended up putting mine in my toaster oven (which worked splendidly), and I did have to use an x-acto knife to get it started. After that, it was possible to continue using the picks, but DON’T EXPECT TO BE ABLE TO REUSE THE SAME DISPLAY. New displays are $35 on ebay. Just get a new one before you start the work or you’ll almost certainly be without a phone for a week.

    Kael Shipman - Contestar

    I was super careful based on all the comments to not even get close to touching the back of the screen. But when reassembled I get nothing but a vibration when turning the phone on.

    I used the suction cup, lotsa heat, started from the top and pried screen off towards the bottom just barely teasing the edges with a special pick that I had from previous battery replacements (special pick limits penetration). It seemed to come off unscathed. But the results say otherwise.

    GUNTIS CIRCENIS - Contestar

  4. Continue carefully separating the adhesive around the rest of the device. Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep. Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.
    • Continue carefully separating the adhesive around the rest of the device.

    • Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

    there should be two notes here - “while adhesive is still warm, REMOVE ALL OF IT or you would be fcked later.” additionally, “ensure you are not separating the OLED from the glass as this will somehow render the screen completely useless”

    Liz Zelnick - Contestar

    Agreed. I just removed the glass from the OLED display…oopss. I’m hosed.

    Joshua Brown - Contestar

    Removing the adhesive while it is warm is a great idea!

    Re: removing the glass from the OLED, as long as you aren’t inserting your opening pick deeper than Step 2 recommends, you should be safe from separating the glass and the display panel unless you are using a ton of heat, in which case you might be frying the display anyway!

    Taylor Dixon - Contestar

    I didn’t apply enough heat during this process and subsequently separated the digitizer from the glass, instead of the whole assembly from the case. I had 3/4 of the screen free from the case when I became impatient and just tried to muscle my way through the rest of the adhesive. It is important to stop and apply more heat during this process any time it starts feeling difficult to move the pick through the adhesive, otherwise you risk breaking the screen and having to get a whole new one.

    Britton Wickes - Contestar

    I got the glass off without cracking anything, but now that it’s back together it doesn’t seem to work. Could it have been damaged from the heat? It flickers green for an instant when plugging in to power or pressing the power button.

    Nicholas Cox - Contestar

    Any recommendations on adhesive when reinstalling? I see there is a pre-made adhesive for sale here for $5.99. Don’t know if 3m double-sided tape would work just as well, or what thickness to use. Any tips would be much appreciated.

    Phillip - Contestar

    Hey Phillip! I’d go with the pre-made adhesive to save yourself the headache of measurement, cutting, and having a whole roll of 3M tape you might not need. It would definitely work if that’s what you prefer though!

    Here’s a guide for applying the pre-made adhesive that you can follow, or just curb from if you use the 3M tape! Google Pixel Display Adhesive Installation

    Taylor Dixon - Contestar

  5. With the adhesive cut, slowly lift the display up from the top (the side with the speaker-grille cutout), carefully flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown. Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display. Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display.
    • With the adhesive cut, slowly lift the display up from the top (the side with the speaker-grille cutout), carefully flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown.

    • Do not attempt to completely remove the display yet, as it is still connected by a fragile ribbon cable. Be careful to not to strain the cable while positioning the display.

    Ruined my Pixel following these instructions. Ribbon cable is at bottom (chin) of phone and not as shown in pictures. My advice take it somewhere and have them replace the battery, that way when they break it it’s their fault.

    John Simpson - Contestar

    I’m sorry the instructions weren’t clear, John! I’ve updated the guide to better illustrate where ribbon cable is and how to work around it.

    Taylor Dixon -

    And another note - I used the suction cup to lift the glass. Unfortunately the glass cracked at that point…bummer. I would update this to describe HOW to lift the glass. As in, LIGHTLY lift up with the suction cup while mostly lifting up on the guitar picks to help separate..

    Joshua Brown - Contestar

    DO NOT “flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown. “ unless you want to spend your day getting adhesive off the screen. Instead get the screw driver ready (step 7) before you start this step.

    eric duchene - Contestar

  6. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two black 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the display cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two black 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the display cable connector bracket.

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  8. Use tweezers to remove the bracket that holds the display connector in place.
    • Use tweezers to remove the bracket that holds the display connector in place.

    Using extreme care, another broken screen here. Instead of coming off together, the adhesive separated between the outer glass and the digitizer panel/screen. Both were damaged in the process. Waste of time and money.

    Chris Kahn - Contestar

    Yes, me too. I’d like advice as to how to vary the glue heating process for this to not occur. Does the heat need to be applied for longer so the deeper OLED panel releases without pulling from the glass?

    Joshua Brown - Contestar

  9. Use a spudger to pry up the display cable connector, freeing the display.

    (from other ifixit tutorial. Did not know this-and it is important!)

    To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    bgwong2476 - Contestar

  10. Remove the display.
    • Remove the display.

    • Some replacement displays do not come with an earpiece speaker grille. If your replacement screen doesn't have one, be sure to transfer the grille from your old display to the new one.

    • During reassembly, pause here to replace the display adhesive.

  11. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the nine 3.5 mm screws securing the midframe.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the nine 3.5 mm screws securing the midframe.

  12. The midframe is held tightly in place by five clips. To release these clips, apply inward pressure with an opening tool as shown in the steps below.
    • The midframe is held tightly in place by five clips. To release these clips, apply inward pressure with an opening tool as shown in the steps below.

    There’s also a clip at the top center (near the camera/ earpiece).

    When reassembling, snap the top clip in before you snap the sides. If you do the sides first, then you can’t snap the top in and will need to disassemble and try again.

    Mark Clementi - Contestar

    On the reassembly step, make sure that the little black wire on the right hand side of the phone is tucked away really well. It can prevent the clip on the bottom right from snapping into place.

    Casey Thimm - Contestar

    To add to Casey’s comment, the black wire needs to be routed along the gap between the battery and the back/left-hand edge of the rear casing.

    Roman Iwanczuk - Contestar

    I would keep a flat razor or an exact-o knife on hand when releasing the midframe from the clips. The tool provided by ifixit does not work well. Even the blue picks would work better.

    Ben Eisenberg - Contestar

  13. Wedge an opening pick into the notch that is located at the bottom right corner of the phone.
    • Wedge an opening pick into the notch that is located at the bottom right corner of the phone.

  14. Slide the opening pick up both sides of the device in the small space between the midframe and the rear case to release the clips holding it in place. Note that the clips are not released by sliding through them, but rather the inward pressure the opening pick creates as it enters the gap around them. If the clasps fail to come undone, try pushing the edge you're working on inward with your hand, or using a thicker tool like a spudger.
    • Slide the opening pick up both sides of the device in the small space between the midframe and the rear case to release the clips holding it in place.

    • Note that the clips are not released by sliding through them, but rather the inward pressure the opening pick creates as it enters the gap around them.

    • If the clasps fail to come undone, try pushing the edge you're working on inward with your hand, or using a thicker tool like a spudger.

    • Do not attempt to remove the midframe yet! There is still a fragile ribbon cable underneath connecting the earpiece speaker to the motherboard.

    when removing the mid frame i damaged a ribbon cable at the bottom left. will that prevent my phone from turning on?

    Bryce Thoreson - Contestar

    I had no luck using the spudger (too blunt) or the opening picks (too weak). I used a straight blade as shown at about 2:35 in this video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...

    Todd Koenig - Contestar

  15. Use a spudger to pry the earpiece speaker cable connector straight up, disconnecting it from the motherboard. Remove the mid-frame from the device.
    • Use a spudger to pry the earpiece speaker cable connector straight up, disconnecting it from the motherboard.

    • Remove the mid-frame from the device.

    • During reassembly, reattach the earpiece speaker cable and insert the top side of the midframe before you snap the clips back into place.

  16. Use a spudger to pry up the battery ribbon cable, disconnecting it from the motherboard.
    • Use a spudger to pry up the battery ribbon cable, disconnecting it from the motherboard.

  17. Using tweezers, peel back the silver tape that covers the cable connecting the motherboard to the daughterboard. Peel just enough to see the connector underneath. Use a spudger to pry the connector straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Using tweezers, peel back the silver tape that covers the cable connecting the motherboard to the daughterboard. Peel just enough to see the connector underneath.

    • Use a spudger to pry the connector straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.

  18. Peel up the sticker covering the interconnect cable on the daughterboard side. Use a spudger to disconnect the cable from the daughterboard. Remove the cable from the device.
    • Peel up the sticker covering the interconnect cable on the daughterboard side.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the cable from the daughterboard.

    • Remove the cable from the device.

    • During reassembly, make sure this interconnect cable is positioned correctly. The phone will not boot up if the cable is installed upside down.

    This step can be skipped entirety. Don’t do more work than you have too. just be careful not to bend the cable.

    eric duchene - Contestar

  19. The battery is lightly adhered to the rear case. Carefully wedge a spudger or an opening pick underneath the battery to break the adhesive. If the battery does not come out easily, don't pry aggressively. Apply heat to the back of the phone with an iOpener or a heat gun to loosen the adhesive.
    • The battery is lightly adhered to the rear case. Carefully wedge a spudger or an opening pick underneath the battery to break the adhesive.

    • If the battery does not come out easily, don't pry aggressively. Apply heat to the back of the phone with an iOpener or a heat gun to loosen the adhesive.

    • Try your best not to deform the battery during this process. Soft-shell lithium-ion batteries can leak dangerous chemicals, catch fire, or even explode if damaged. Do not use excessive force or pry at the battery with metal tools.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    Don’t mess around here. Use the hair dryer, on the back of the phone for 30 seconds. Battery came out in seconds.

    eric duchene - Contestar

    • Remove the battery.

    • To install a new battery:

    • Remove any remaining adhesive from the phone, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.

    • Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. Apply the new adhesive to the phone, not directly onto the battery.

    • Press the new battery firmly into place for 5-10 seconds.

    When wiping adhesive off the midframe, be careful not to get any alcohol on the foam with the little “X”s all over it. The alcohol will dissolve the foam.

    Casey Thimm - Contestar

Conclusión

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

After completing this guide, calibrate your newly-installed battery.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

47 personas más completaron esta guía.

Taylor Dixon

Miembro Desde 26/06/18

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I doubt many people can get past step 1 without it being game over. Take special care, read the comments, and other guides as well.

Benjamin Knight - Contestar

I broke mine too. Not the glass but the display panel underneath.

For those who are going to try opening theirs: pay extreme attention to the fact that the display panel extends somewhat beyond the bottom edge of the visible part of the display where the cable connects and, if that wasn’t bad enough, the bottom bezel has a !&&* of a lot adhesive on it. Don’t insert plastic opening tools on the bottom corners - if you do that, you will damage one of the unprotected corners of the panel like I did. If I had to do that again, I’d probably start from the top edge instead.

The new screen ended up costing me the equivalent of $80, and I was surprised I was able to walk into a store and buy one at all in a country where Pixel was never officially available in the first place. They didn’t have white ones in stock so I went with a black one.

Gregory Klyushnikov -

Same. Even when being warned and trying to be super careful.

Joshua Campbell -

Another trashed screen. This phone is a difficult one if you have not done one before. I would recommend not even bothering with prying under the sides and just concentrate on the top and bottom. The edges only allow about 2mm at most before you run into the LCD.

Tyler -

+1. Don’t bother trying to save the screen. Just save yourself the stress and buy a new screen on ebay for $35 before you begin. I have never botched a repair and I still managed to break my display on this. Yes, I was super careful, it took me like 45 minutes to finally get the display loose, and when I put it all back together, the display was totally dead.

Kael Shipman -

Success! I was able to replace the battery in my pixel although it took much longer than expected. I highly recommend using a playing card (or several) to cut through the adhesive as it can fairly easily bend around the fragile components. Patience is needed as it took me nearly an hour to get the screen off, reheating, gently prying and cutting with the card. Once past the screen it was fairly straightforward despite the pre cut adhesive being too long. The adhesive comes back into play during the reassembly prep as it took at least half an hour to remove the old adhesive and prep for the new. Be aware that the foam on the mid frame is alcohol soluble and will dissolve on contact. The new adhesive for the screen took some gentle massaging to line up but ultimately went on without much fight. All back together, it works (hopefully with renewed battery life). I would say allocate at least 2 hours unless you’ve done it before.

josh9623 - Contestar

This took me about 2 hours. I was very, very careful, and it was a success! No broken screen.

jlteekell - Contestar

My screen is already broken and my battery is close to shot so should I just plan on replacing the screen anyways? Seems like removing screen without breaking it is crazy difficult so I should just plan on replacing the screen and battery in one procedure.

Matt Mendivil - Contestar

Worked like a charm! Don’t expect to breeze through this in 30 minutes though. I used a hair dryer rather than the I-opener and was able to easily pry the screen up from the bottom of the phone using the blue opening tool and the suction cup. From there I used the picks to completely release the adhesive from the bottom and the top of the screen. Once the top and bottom were loose I used a playing card to loosen the sides and the screen came right off. For step 14 the picks were too flexible to loosen the clips on the midframe but the spudger did the trick. Requires a bit a patience but it’s not nearly as scary as the comments make it seem. Great product

Anthony - Contestar

Tried to get the screen propped up to start loosening the adhesive. I tried using both the provided iOpener and an SMD rework heat gun, set at very low settings (100 - 120C). Even with extensive heat, I could not get the screen to budge. It’s quite hard to get leverage to lift the screen off, and with the amount of force I was trying to pull on the suction cup to get the screen up, I was concerned about breaking the screen.

I should have read the many reviews by people saying that they broke the screen, so that’s on me, but honestly cannot recommend this. I don’t really think iFixit should be offering this as a product to be honest.

Tim Cosgrove - Contestar

Took me 3 hours but I was successful. Be careful. Watch a couple of YouTube videos and read the instructions front to back twice before you get started.

Adhesive is !&&* and getting started is challenging. Use a playing card and a heat gun to release the adhesive. I started in the top right corner of the device, used the included replacement adhesive as your guide.

I used the included suction cup, heat gun and an xacto knife to catch that first gap on the corner. Use the included picks to hold the gaps as you work your way around. Pull the playing card through the top and bottom gently, the adhesive will stick to the card.

Take care on the long sides, the edge of the screen is VERY narrow, make a mark along the edge of the card at 1mm. Don’t pry, just slide. Use the heat gun constantly, get the screen hot to the touch.

Once I reassembled the phone the microphone didn’t work. I popped it open again and reattached the ribbon cable on the daughter board. Microphone works now — but it gave me a good scare.

Philip Van Drunen - Contestar

While this was definitely a difficult repair, I think that the guide is very thorough. I did this repair in about 3 and a half hours with 4 other friends all working together. We were very careful and cut very shallowly through the adhesive to ensure the safety of the display ribbon. We did however use a video guide to fill in a few of the small gaps not shown in the images here. In the end, everything worked out well, so I would definitely recommend this guide to fix your Pixel battery, as long as you have some help and a lot of time.

Afana Craft - Contestar

Broke the display trying to remove it, even after using a heat gun the display was hard to remove. Was successful with replacing the battery. The display I ordered to replace the the broken display I also broke trying to fit into the frame, but It did work for a short time. Have ordered another display and adhesive - have a better idea what to do.

Dale Slaughter - Contestar

Success! Used the iFixit heat pad

Took ~3 hours.

Patience working through getting the display unstuck is key I think.

Removing the glue before putting in the new one was a massive nuisance, unlike the photos the glue doesn’t simply peel off, every single pit had to be coaxed off with the spudger. The most effective technique seemed to be kind of pushing it from the edges with the tip of the spudger.

Paul Buxton - Contestar

Thanks for the guide. Did this in ~2 hours without breaking my screen (murphy’s law: I ordered a replacement screen to have on standby just in case). PATIENCE was the key word here. Used a heat gun, a heavy-duty suction cup, a guitar pick to maintain the initial gap, and then a playing card to gently cut the glue.

Just focus on the top and bottom of the screen - don’t even fool with the sides, unless you want a broken screen. Once you have the top (or bottom) carefully unseated/unglued, peel the screen back using the suction cup - this will take care of the sides - and then just focus on the other end.

Good luck

Derek - Contestar

I replaced the battery and charge port. Phone boots up but no display on the lcd so I guess I broke it. But I see no visible damage at all on the back or front of the screen and the digitizer senses touches. Ordered another screen. Hoping I didn’t break something else in the process or else could be a pain trying to diagnose it. Btw anyone know how to power off the phone without use of the lcd? Holding power button only reboots.

Vince - Contestar

Dang it, that’s a bummer. Even if the screen shows no damage, it’s possible that your opening pick went in just a little too far and messed up the display. That said, it’s also possible you could have a different problem! It sounds like you were really careful with the screen, so it could be that your display cable connector just didn’t fully snap into place, or it may have gotten some gunk on it that is interfering with the connection. Hopefully the new display works.

Without the display you can hold the power button + volume down to restart the phone, but I’m not sure there is a way to shut it down. You can always just disconnect the battery, if the phone is still semi-open!

Taylor Dixon -

i did the same - battery works fine and i can hear the phone boot; roommate did a test call and the phone works, but the screen is toast. i ordered a new screen, plugged it in (without attaching the adhesive!) and nada. idk what else to try

Liz Zelnick -

If a new display is still malfunctioning and you’re sure the display cable is properly seated, I’d say something probably short circuited during the repair. It’s hard be certain what happened, but a short circuits tend to happen when cables are unplugged while the phone is powered on. At this point a new motherboard will most likely take care of the issue. (Google Pixel G-2PW4100 Motherboard) I’m sorry things didn’t go well for you both, and I hope you can get everything working soon!

Taylor Dixon -

This guide was great. The new battery makes me think my phone is brand new with the longevity it has now. I can echo the warning about getting the screen off. I bought the whole ifixit kit for this procedure and my only recommendation is that you use the warmer on both sides before you start to pry off the screen. It is extremely delicate and that cannot be understated. I ended up having to purchase a replacement screen and then dig out all the shards of glass before replacing the battery.

For those who are scared of this procedure, getting the glass off is the hardest part, the rest is easy.

Andrew Gordon - Contestar

I broke the screen on opening for 2 reasons. First. Should be clearly notated that the ribbon cable between the OLED and the DIGITIZER (which SHOULD COME OFF IN ONE PIECE WHEN YOU REMOVE THE DISPLAY) sits INTO the bottom right side of the glass bezel. So the instructions to “not go further than the colored (white or black) glass into where the display is”, is inaccurate.

Second, my digitizer separated from the OLED while lifting it out, was this because the adhesive wasn’t hot enough? How to avoid this??

Joshua Brown - Contestar

Important to start the screen carefully. The sides are least sticky but the most difficult. This is because there is 1.9mm of space between edge of glass and the OLED display under the glass. If you keep your pry tool at 30° you will miss the Display. Once you have the screen off the hard part is behind you. Keep this guide close by. Watch videos and don't hurry. Good luck!

Donald Droga - Contestar

Excellent guide. Performed a successful replacement without damaging my screen and so far everything seems to work fine.

-Removal of the screen wasn’t as hard as they made it out to be, just gotta be careful.

-Removal of all old adhesive was more difficult

-It was difficult to keep the front camera lens cover clean during adhesive removal . Removal of the old adhesive was the most time consuming part of my battery replacement

-the thin wire that runs down the battery side of the bottom part of the phone got in the way of clipping in the middle frame. I noticed when I was removing the glue that it kinda “bulged” up on the side between the screws. I removed the middle frame again and I had to shift the battery over a millimeter or so in order to place the wire down out of the way.

-Also I have no idea how it was missed in the first place but one of the 9 screws in my middle frame was already loose! Screw # 4 if you count Left to Right, top to bottom in step #11

Henry Scharf - Contestar

apparently I screwed something up and missed more “tests” before I placed the screen on the device. 1: It won’t charge. 2: Vibration motor wasn’t working 3: speaker isn’t working. Now the phone is completely dead and I’m waiting on more screen adhesive before I take it apart again.

Henry Scharf -

Check your connection to the charging port module. My guess is that it wasn't plugged back in correctly. Otherwise get one of these. Very easy to replace once the phone is opened up. I had to change mine out because the port wouldn't charge. Mic, speaker,motor and charge port are in this module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Google-Pixel-5-...

Vince -

Henry, that is a bummer! Vince is right, there’s probably something going on with your daughterboard. Make sure the long interconnect cable (the one you remove in step 18) is properly connected, and if all else fails, the replacement part he linked (sorry, ours is out of stock :( ) should do the trick!

Taylor Dixon -

No mention of earpiece mesh?

Donald Droga - Contestar

Donald, do you mean the earpiece speaker grill? We do mention that in the Google Pixel Display Replacement guide.

Taylor Dixon -

Read all of the instructions thoroughly, read all of the comments, watch some videos, TAKE YOUR TIME. Its a great kit but I used a heat gun and it took me 3 hours start to finish. You’ll definitely want to start from the top when removing the glass. Wedge a few guitar picks in there, hit it with the heat again, and keep gently working that glass off.

Richard Wood - Contestar

My screen broke while removal, but no issues aside from that. No fault of the review, just be very careful if you are hoping to reuse the screen. They’re cheap on Amazon, just plan on breaking it unless you’re a pro.

My only recommendation regarding the directions is to really heat the screen up. I progressively heated it hotter and hotter and found that the adhesive really loosened up when an IR thermometer showed the screen to be ~190 F, which is in my opinion a higher than the guides recommended ‘slightly too hot to touch’.

Also, be careful to not get alcohol on the foam under screen liner - it will badly melt it and will make your screen sit wavy.

I found better luck with a wide, flat razor blade to make the initial gap. Be sure to go in at an angle rather than straight down, I went too far down and bent the mid-frame a little bit. A wide blade won’t scratch up the phone frame. But at this point my screen was already broken so take that for what it’s worth.

Jackson Schleich - Contestar

Hopefully this will help prevent others from accidentally breaking their screens. This back to back to show what you are dealing with in terms of dimensions. I would pay particular attention to the bottom of the screen where the lcd angles in and extends about a 1/8” beyond the what you are able to see from the front. I think this is where I may have damaged mine. I did not see any physical damage on mine but it definitely doesn’t power on.

https://imgur.com/wR4HUo6

Vince - Contestar

Just finished replacing the battery and it wasn’t too bad. Read the comments about other peoples’ mistakes, watch some Youtube videos, take your time, and you’ll be fine. If you’re not good at these things or very nervous, then just buy an extra screen to have on hand and return it if you end up not needing it.

Mark Clementi - Contestar

Just in the process of replacing battery…The prying part wasn’t so hard as I’ve imagined…took ~15 mins, and here is a photo of the back of the screen. https://i.imgur.com/W0C2JHl.jpg .See the red rectangle? I might have ‘damaged’ something so be really careful dealing with the lower half of the frame. I’ve re-powered on and display & touch are both good.

pizzamx - Contestar

Took me another ~30 mins to remove the midframe…AFAIC this part is more tricky then removing the screen…just remember to follow the instructions - i.e. apply inward pressure.

pizzamx -

I’m screwed. Screen doesn’t work after replacing the battery. No sure what went wrong…placing order for a replacement screen now :(

pizzamx -

does the phone power on when you hold the power button? ie, does the phone have that short vibration during boot? if not, maybe something isn’t plugged in correctly? if it does vibrate, then yeah, the screen went poop. the latter is what happened to me (it vibrated but and booted up but the screen never lit up) so i replaced the screen and all good (after $40).

Vince -

Hi Vince, unfortunately my phone did boot up, I felt the vibration and it rang when receiving incoming calls…After comparing it with the new replacement I think it was the display cable connector pins that I accidentally broke while plugging the cable. See https://imgur.com/a/SuItoIN and the two panels side by side: https://imgur.com/a/mL6UjGh . If you can see it clearly it might well be the top-right part of the pins that’ve gone missing…It’s really disaster…I’m just over-confident with myself :D Hope this post will help whoever doing this in the future and be reminded that anything can be broken.

pizzamx - Contestar

I followed this procedure to replace the power button. Everything seemed to go well, though I may have gone to far in on the bottom (I went basically until the white border turns to display).

When I press the power button, the screen flickers green for an instant. When I first plugged it into my computer, it recognized it as a Pixel, but did not pop up using “fastboot devices”. Now, it isn’t recognized at all by the computer, sometimes saying “the usb device you plugged in has malfunctioned…”.

If I hold the power button for 25-30 seconds, I get the vibration like the phone is powering on, but nothing on screen and still not recognized using fastboot.

Any ideas? Did I short something on the motherboard? There’s a fair chance I accidentally powered the phone on before plugging everything back in as I was testing the power button to make sure it was seated correctly.

Anyway, thanks for this write up and any help ya’ll can offer!

Nicholas Cox - Contestar

Nicholas, I’m sorry things didn’t work out! Yours certainly seems like a strange case. I’m going to optimistically guess that your problem is confined to the screen, and hope your computer isn’t recognizing it because of its own problems (you can never trust windows drivers too much haha). I think if I were you I would try a replacement screen, and then if that doesn’t work you can pick up a new motherboard. Hopefully only one of those two parts are the root of your problem. If you do only end up needing one of them, you can return the other! Sorry again about the complications, I hope you can get it worked out! Let us know how it goes!

Taylor Dixon -

Playing cards work. However I went to deep and must have jacked the LCD ribbon cable. No power to LCD. Found one used and working on ebay for 15.

Adam Yaccarino - Contestar

Some of my notes:

1. Getting the phone open ( Steps 1-4 ) is the hardest part of this process.

Use a very thin blade or flat head. Must be real thin so you can make that gap.

Start at the top. You are going to create a chip in the frame regardless.

Use the tool opener to slide back and forth to cut the adhesive.

Take the time to heat the edges ( i used a hair dryer ) to soften the glue

2. With Step 12, I used a flat head to open.

Start from the bottom, where you have a small gap to pry up.

Run the flat head along and press the frame outward while lifting the mid section

The clip will naturally fall out and the mid section flip up.

3. Keep the mid section seperate and clean the adhesive. I used my fingernail.

With the LED screen part, be carefui not to touch the LED part too much or scratch too hard on the glass.

It does not have to be 100% clean, just smooth enough.

P.S. My LED screen came out perfect and only damaged on the glass part ( chipped paint work ) You can’t see it when fully assembled. :)

Good luck.

sadfad53 - Contestar

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