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Introducción
Si tus lentes han sido dañados, sigue estos pasos para reemplazarlos. Los lentes pueden haber sido dañados si la cámara se ha caído o ha sido a expuesta a condiciones rigurosas.
Qué necesitas
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Desliza la pequeña pestaña negra en el inferior de la cámara hacia la izquierda para desbloquear la cubierta de la batería.
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Empezando en una de las esquinas, usa una espátula para hacer palanca en la cubierta de piel de la cámara.
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:Mako Driver Kit - 64 Precision Bits$39.95-
This is a camera produced by a Japanese camera manufacturer. The Japanese camera industry loves using JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws.
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Don't be tempted by your Phillips screw driver collection. Although PH#00 will interchange with JIS#00, it is not a perfect fit. Using Phillips will cause more wear on the head of the JIS screws and cause the screws to prematurely strip.
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Have both JIS#00 and JIS#000 screw drivers available for this teardown. Luckily, both bits are included in the ifixit 64bit kit.
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Remove the bottom plate and the tripod mount by lifting them using your hands.
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The tripod mount is keyed and fits into a series of pegs on the back side of the bottom plate.
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Get your picks ready!
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To get any deeper into this camera, the right-hand port cover assembly must be removed first. Once this is removed, you will have access to the screws that secure the other components.
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There's a tiny hole toward the bottom right of the battery compartment. Using the pick tool, press into that hole.
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A plastic rod will release. That plastic rod is the axis the hinge rotates about.
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Fuji! What did we tell you about hiding screws behind closed doors! That's pretty under the table Fuji. Don't do it again. Promise?
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The devil's in the details with this camera. Slide the port cover off the hinge rod.
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Using a pair of pliers, pull the rod out of the top plate of the camera. Now you'll finally have access to all the screws that need to be removed.
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Remove the three 5.0 mm screws by the micro-USB, micro-HDMI and remote ports.
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Remove the screw hidden behind the port cover hinge.
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The port cover assembly should come off with ease. If it is stuck, try prying with plastic shims.
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Remove the two 6.0 mm screws beneath the port cover assembly.
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Remove the four 5.0 mm screws on the side of the camera that is opposite to the battery.
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Remove the two 2.5 mm screws on the bottom face of the camera.
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Once the electronics are exposed, it is highly recommended that you remain ESD safe. ESD can fry your precious electronics, and pass thousands of volts through components only rated for a few V DC. ESD can sure ruin your day if you are not careful.
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Use an ESD mat and wrist strap, and make sure you are grounded for the remaining of the teardown. Make sure your ESD mat is connected to the ground of a nearby outlet, and make sure your house actually has a ground. Consult an electrician if you are unsure.
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Remove the orange ribbon cable by opening up the ZIF connector with a plastic prying tool or toothpick.
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Remove the white/blue ribbon cable from the motherboard by gently pulling with your hands.
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Remove the 2.5 mm screw in the center, above the removed LCD screen.
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Remove the two 4.0 mm screws on the right.
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Remove the two 4.5 mm screws on the side of the camera opposite of the battery.
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Peel off the copper tape connecting the frame to the camera.
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Remove the adhesive tape holding the speaker.
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The speaker is held into place by double sided tape. Pull it off the steel frame and move it toward the bottom of the camera
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Remove these two ribbon cables so they don't get cut or damaged when removing the entire steel frame.
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Fold back the steel frame by lifting it off and gently pulling it to the side using your hand.
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Remove the three 4.2 mm screws on the green chip.
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Locate the orange ribbon cable on the side of the camera that has the battery slot.
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Remove the ribbon cable from the ZIF socket using a plastic opening tool.
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Remove the ribbon by lifting it off with your hands.
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Remove the rubber eyepiece guard by lifting it off with your hands.
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If the rubber eyepiece is being stubborn, an old giftcard won't mind :D
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Remove the two 4.0 mm screws from the front of the camera. These are most likely T1 torx screws.
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I can't stress enough how tiny these screws are. Pencil point sized.
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The closest bit in the ifixit kit is the star shaped #2 screw head.
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Remove the top frame by lifting it off and pulling it towards the backside of the camera.
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Use a plastic opening tool to detach the two ribbon cables from the top frame.
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Locate the adhesive connecting the black and red wires above the green board.
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Remove the adhesive by gently pulling it off with your hand.
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Remove the copper tape that grounds the sensor heatsink to the sensor PCB.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry off the ribbon located next to the top-right of the green sensor board.
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Use a plastic opening tool and metal tweezers to lift up the ribbon located next to the center-right section of the green board.
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Remove the CMOS sensor aluminum heatsink by lifting it up with your hands. The sensor, PCB and heatsink are integrated into one unit.
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You should be wearing nitrile gloves when working with lens assemblies. Oils from fingerprints leave marks on the lens elements and cause major headaches during reassembly.
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Remove the four 3.2 mm screws on the silver lens cover.
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Use a plastic opening tool to lift up the silver lens cover.
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Remove the three 3.5 mm screws on the black lens cover.
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Remove the three 3.5 mm screws on the spring-loaded cover.
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Remove the spring and the lens by gently lifting both the components upwards.
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Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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3 comentarios
can you tel us how to put it back together.
I no longer have the Fuji x100T, but it may be possible to disassemble the lens from the front. Many modern cameras have a glued-on beauty ring / lens nameplate ring on the front of the lens. The ring I am specifically referring to is the “Fujinon Aspherical Lens Super EBC f23mm 1:2.” Nameplate rings are traditionally used to hide screws or a circular threaded ring which holds the lens together. Here is an example, specifically at 9:46min mark http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRPwEsAYz...
I would suggest watching more of mikeno62’s lens repair videos to get familiar with lens disassembly. I don’t have a service manual for this camera, but there may be screws hidden behind the nameplate ring.
Make sure to take your time with the lens disassembly. Be careful of the hardness of the tool you use. Plastic (mohs hardness of 2) wont scratch glass (mohs hardness of 5.5) and neither will rubber. Make sure to document the disassembly so you don’t reassemble the lens wrong. Work on a large empty table, you’ll need it! Good luck!