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Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement

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  1. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Remove the control knob: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Spudger
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    • Pull off the control knob using a nylon spudger.

    • Alternatively, a flat head screwdriver can be used, but be cautious of potential scratches on the metal faceplate.

  2. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Remove bottom screws: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit
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    • Flip the station over and remove the four T20 screws.

    • Flip the station back onto its base and lift the top cover up and off the station.

  3. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Remove display nuts: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use pliers or a wrench to unscrew the four plastic nuts holding the display in place.

  4. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Disconnect the display cable: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Spudger
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    • Carefully flip the display upwards.

    • Loosen the display connector by pushing up the small brown bars on both sides of the connector with a spudger or similar tool.

    • Pull the ribbon cable from the connector.

  5. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Locate the display backlight: paso 5, imagen 1 de 2 Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Locate the display backlight: paso 5, imagen 2 de 2
    • The display backlight is hidden under white tape on the right side of the display.

    • The second photo shows markings on the display.

  6. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Remove cover tape: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Carefully remove the white cover tape using a knife or similar tool.

    • Make sure the golden flexible circuit board strip doesn't bend upwards along with the cover tape!

  7. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Remove  cover tape: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use a knife or similar tool to hold down the circuit strip and unstick it from the cover tape.

    • If you choose to remove any strip glue residue with alcohol, be careful not to let it seep between various layers inside the display area, as this can cause unsightly spots to develop.

  8. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Unstick the circuit strip from the base: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use a knife or similar tool to carefully unstick the circuit strip from the plexiglass base.

    • The strip is held in place with a thin, transparent, double-sided tape. Be sure to keep the tape on the plexiglass base as you remove the strip. If the tape tears away with the strip, use the tip of the knife to push it back onto the plexiglass.

    • Try to bend the strip as little as possible to make it easier to seat back in properly later.

  9. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Desolder original backlight LEDs: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Fold the circuit strip onto the back cover of the display and weigh it down. This will expose the faulty original LEDs and some resistors.

    • Before soldering, place heat-resistant material under the strip to prevent damage to the display's plastic back cover. If the plastic melts, it can cause unsightly spots. In the photo, several sheets of paper are used.

  10. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Backlight schematics: paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • After analyzing the original backlight connections, it became clear why it fails: the Chinese designers who created the display wanted to save space and money by connecting the LEDs in parallel.

    • However, since each LED has a slightly different threshold voltage, one of them draws more current and fails prematurely. The remaining two LEDs then experience even higher currents and burn out soon afterwards.

    • To address this issue, I decided to change the connection according to the lower schematic. I shorted the original 22R resistors and put a 220R resistor in series with each new LED.

  11. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Solder in new components: paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • There is enough room on the strip to solder in new LEDs (red arrows) along with their 220R resistors (green arrows) on the original solder pads.

    • Use resistors in the 0603 package to fit them into the available space.

    • Desolder the original 22R resistors and short their pads with a thin wire.

    • Verify that all three new LEDs work by connecting a 5V power supply onto the "A" and "K" pads on the strip.

  12. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Seat the strip back onto the display: paso 12, imagen 1 de 1
    • Stick the circuit strip back onto the plexiglass base.

    • Keep in mind that the new components are slightly wider, so make sure the strip doesn't bulge or stick out anywhere. If the strip doesn't fit properly, unstick it and try a slightly different position until it sits flat and securely.

  13. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Secure the strip with new cover tape: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • Secure the strip in place with a new tape cover, such as brown electrical tape.

    • Ensure that the tape covers the strip completely and doesn't leave any gaps or exposed areas.

    • Reassemble the soldering station carefully and test the display to confirm that it's working properly.

  14. Ersa i-CON 1 soldering station display backlight replacement, Final result: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Here you can see comparison of original (left) and new backlight (center). The new backlight is slightly brighter than the original; you can use larger resistors (270 or 330R instead of 220R) to lower the brightness.

    • I also experimented with general-purpose VLMW11R2S2-5K8L-08 omidirectional LEDs. You can see the result on the station on the right - the display is rather dim and there is significant backlight bleed on its right edge, where the LEDs are located. Thus I recommend to use only directional, right-angle LEDs like LTW-108DCG-HS10.

    • Since new LEDs need lower current to achieve similar light output, they should outlast the soldering station. This "trick" is generally applicable; high-brightness LEDs always generate more light at 2 mA than ordinary LEDs at 20 mA. At the same time, they consume less power, generate less heat and last much longer.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 personas más completaron esta guía.

Pavel Hanak

Miembro Desde 12/08/16

653 Reputación

2 Guías creadas

7 comentarios

Thanks a ton. We have ~20 units in our facility and experiencing the same issue. I feel like writing a preventive action to ERSA. I've followed your steps, bought the LEDs and found some 120ohm (0603) resistors laying around. You are pretty accurate on the time. It's about 20mins after you get the first couple done. The results are night and day (pun intended...lol). I do like the irons and they work great, but just one drawback is the display design. Huge cost savings to do them yourself, but you need to have a light hand, and don't burn anything. I used 3 layer paper under the circuit, exacto blade and tweezers to peel the tape back. The recommended LED part number (LTW-108xxx) works great. Thanks for this awesome money saver, our employees are happy they can see the display again. You Rock!

Dave Johnson - Contestar

Thank you for your detailled walktrough.

I have found two types of screen on my ersa icon1. Lucky me one of the screens had a sticker with the model identification and is equal to your screen. =)

The model is ES13BB0BMW, manufactured by EMERGING DISPLAY TECHNOLOGIES CORP.

The only place I could find it for sale was here:

https://www.questcomp.com/part/4/ES13BB0...

But i am still waiting for a quote, because unfortunly my screen is dead.

You can also find a link to the datasheet on the above link.

I attemped connecting the other screen, the different one, and found it to no work properly on the pcb. The text gets faint. Dont know why yet.

Ricardo Heleno - Contestar

Hello Again,

I have just found the other display version. Is quite easy to find on the web.

AMG12864PR-G-B12WTDW

http://www.orientlcd.com/mobile/Product....

On the above link you can also find the datasheets.

It also looks like someone already figured it out befor me.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/rep...

However altough thee pcb is the same, there are some differences on the mounted components. A direct compatibility can not be possible.. Maybe even software is different.. I will walk through the displays datasheets and see what might be needed to ensure compatibility between the two versions.

If I can pull it out I will maybe do a walkthrough in this.

Ricardo Heleno - Contestar

The LCD controller is the same on both LCDs .. SITRONIX7565P , meaning that software should be compatible.

Ricardo Heleno -

The display from Orient is confirmed to work just by direct replacement. =)

Ricardo Heleno -

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