Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar la placa base del controlador. Reemplazar completamente la placa requerirá desoldar los motores de vibración existentes y soldarlos a la nueva placa.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Remueve los cinco tornillos Phillips de 7.2 mm que aseguran la carcasa trasera a el control.
-
-
-
Presiona en la carcasa trasera entre los sticks analógicos y ligeramente levanta el borde inferior del resto del controlador.
it’s not very clear but for this step you need to push where the yellow dot is shown on the picture. it’s rather tough. you kind of have to move the whole back plate a bit for it to work.
I’m stuck at this step because I can’t for the life of me undo the clip
Yeah I’m lost here too. I’m pushing where the dot is but nothing is happening. What am I trying to accomplish by pushing there? Is there a clasp on the inside I’m trying to undo or something? I really don’t want to break the controller by using too much force or opening it the wrong way.
Could it be that the sixaxis I have is constructed differently? Or is this just a difficult step?
Adding: I ended up getting the shell off but ended up breaking off a small piece which I'm guessing was securing the front and back shells together. The trigger buttons and pieces remained intact on one of my two controllers which is what I was worried about, though I did have to fit the small trigger pieces back in.
The one controller seemed to fit back together just fine without the small piece that broke off, and buttons seemed to feel and work fine too.Joe -
-
-
-
Empuja la carcasa trasera ligeramente hacia el borde superior del control para despejar el panel frontal de los 2 gatillos.
-
Jala la carcasa trasera del control, ten cuidado de que los 2 gatillos no salgan disparados.
the "trigger button guide" link links back to this page :o
I accidentally popped a trigger off, and both L1 and R1, because I skimmed and didn't read this step. Fortunately it's not hard. The tricky part with the triggers is that there's a little spring on them. You have to press the side of the spring that's pointing away from the trigger against the sloped surface of the controller (look at the other trigger for reference, if you only popped one off). Then you just slide the trigger on until the "handlebar" bits near the center click into place.
The reset button – a small mostly-rectangular rubberized piece – fell out as I removed the rear cover. It covers the hole near the middle screw and has a post that presses SW1 on the motherboard.
-
-
-
Levanta la batería de la tarjeta madre para tener suficiente acceso al conector de la batería.
-
-
-
Con cuidado jala el conector de la batería de su socket en la tarjeta madre.
To safely remove the connector, you can slide a thin screwdriver inside two slots that can be found on top of the connctor housing (the beige colored one), which allow you to push on the connector. Do this slowly, prying first through one slot, then through the other, until the connector is out. This will allow you to remove the connector without pulling by accident on the wires.
Thanks Adriana. Good advice. My local battery replacement guy will not touch PS3 controllers.
Hi Adriana,
I have to say, that tip really saved me. I was pulling on the wires (this is my first time doing this) and wasgoing nowhere.
Thank you!
I highly, HIGHLY recommend that if anyone bought the protect toolkit, that they use the SIM bit as that is extremely helpful for this step!
Take note: The PS3 remote controller in this guide has some white plastic spacers shaped like ( and ) on the board which keep the battery from touching the chip. The PS3 remote controller I disassembled has no spacers on the board but rather the board has 6 holes - 4 small square corner alignment holes and two rectangular retaining holes. The battery was an LIP1472 but the battery pack casing had 4 alignment pins and 2 retaining tabs to fit into the board and hold the battery away from the chip. Why does it matter? It may or may not matter, however the fact that all designs include separation indicates that it might matter. Possible reasons are that the battery might touch the chip and cause electrostatic damage, the battery might touch the chip and not allow the chip to dissipate heat properly, or the battery might simply rattle a bit. I can not find any replacement batteries with pins and tabs. It may be necessary to create some standoffs from plastic similar to those shown above and attach to board.
My controllers new battery (ordered from ifixit) doesn’t have connectors on it like my dead battery. Help?
Its literally completely flat (the battery)
What's the battery's voltage?
The battery is 3.7 voltage 610 mAH from Sony's LIP1359 battery. Max charging is 4.2 V and 0.4A, but I found a better one from Digikey. It is still required to modify the battery's connector.
My new battery for the PS3 controller.
Yes, yes, yes brilliant suggestion! I broke the wires to the battery trying to wiggle the connector off using needle-nose pliers, but pushing through those slots on the top saved the day even after that little fiasco. Yay.
-
-
-
-
Remueve el único tornillo Phillips de 7.2 mm que asegura la tarjeta madre a la cubierta frontal.
Most of the times, the only thing you need to repair to fix random key-presses is the soft plastic under the input-board connector to the motherboard.
At step 6 just move the motherboard upwards and you'll be able to see the connector.
Take the black soft-plastic-thing under it, and make it thicker with some tape. ( roll some tape around it 3-4 times - cut the tape properly so it can fit afterwards )
Now put everything back.
Random Presses are gone. Both of my controllers had this problem after a few hot summers and many hours of gameplay... both are fixed now.
-
-
-
Jala los retenedores del motor vibratorio de la carcasa frontal para remover el conjunto de tarjeta madre.
My ~2012 EU controller (CECHZC2E) differs from this point as well. The entire white assembly comes out of the black shell by pressing in the latches on both sides of the vibration motors (you can see a small bit of white plastic stick out from under the black shell, that is where you press down).
-
-
-
Remueve el conjunto de tarjeta madre de la carcasa frontal.
On my controller the button contact filament stayed inside the controller housing. Concerningly this exposed the contact ribbon for the buttons and sticks against the back of the logic board. However, the rest of the service with without issue, and the controller worked fine. This controller had a gray battery inside of it, and was likely a 60GB launch controller.
-
-
-
Empuja con cuidado los dos motores de vibración fuera del marco de la placa de entrada.
I currently have some Controllers here (Modelno CECHZC2E A1 and CECHZC2E B1) where you have to press the motors upwards (to the analog sticks) to remove it from the frame but it seems that the wires are to short to so instead I unsolder both motors from the chip. In my opinion, this is also more convenient when you have to remove the main chip, because you would have been finished after Step 6.
-
-
-
Levanta el conjunto de la placa de entrada de la placa base.
well is it meant to go off so easy so that why it is so stupid its just holding over the mainbord my controller dident charge or start so i removed the cover and lifter it a bit and i put it back and it works i mean who made it so it is free i mean something shuld hold it so it dosent happend to anyone like that happend to me -.- and that whas the problem well good controller i think desent good
-
-
-
Tira de las cubiertas de ambas palancas analógicas hacia arriba de sus postes de joystick conectados a la placa base.
-
-
-
Usa un soldador para desoldar ambos cables del motor de vibración de la placa base.
Andrew you really need to post where you can get the motherboards for the controller. You don't have it listed on parts. But the guide was useful!
-
Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
42 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
15 comentarios
Do i have to take the vibration motors off?What if i have a replacement motherboard with vibration motors already on,can i just replace it with that one?
P.S.-Pretty new to fixing these remotes so i apologize if my questions may sound stupid.
I'm not sure if anyone replied to your comment, but yes you can just use the new motherboard with the vibration devices already attached. It appears that some of the motherboards do not come with them already. If it doesn't then you would have to solder etc
I have a dual shock 3 and my son accidentally drooled on it and it won't turn or anything, I had it brand new for 3 weeks, what do u think it is? Input board? Motherboard?
My controller does not have a vibrating motor, so what kind of motherboard should i get to replace it?
A motherboard that does NOT have dualshock 3, that being said you MAY be able to use a dualshock 3 board if you remove the motors. Not sure if that will work though.
Darn, I came so close to perfection.
Get it back together less back cover, fire up assassins creed rogue,
battle at sea already in progress where I was forced to quit, and I have all cannon action buttons back, except R1.
The problem for sure is the circuit strip, bump contacts from one to the other.
Scratching the contacts bright was the trick, and can't figure why 1 button refuses contact.
Alcohol scrub 1st round was not enough, so 3rd tear down is starring at me,, lol.
Hark, after 2 more tear downs,, he's just like new.
That darn flex strip is an issue.
"
I added a bit more padding under strip
to apply slightly more pressure to contacts
at the mating contacts on the board, and a bit
more deep scrub between those contacts, just in case
there was any trace of carbon tracking in narrow
space between them causing button drop out
of L2 / R2.
"
These contacts would be good to have a brass brush
handy to brighten them up..
"
Trimmed short tooh brush dipped in 5 drops of alcohol
was main tool scrubbing enrtire board surface.
then wiped dry . It was after this final scrub, that
it finally responded correct.
"
Thanks to those who showed great shots,
and great tips, before I dove into this project & adding padding I'm sure helped.
"
I took some decent photos of details,,
I'll have to solve how to get them on here,
being laptop just died.
Is there a way I can find more details on how the analog face buttons (x, o, box, triangle) work? What ICs and Input sensors they have used?
So on a DS3 you can’t pop open those teal colored “doors” and replace the analog sensors? Bummer.
I recommend using Phillips #1 for all Dualshock 3 repairs. #0 and especially #00 have a lot of play with the screws. I nearly badly damaged one of the screws before I switched to #1. It seems to fit almost perfectly. Quite snug. There’s still a tiny wiggle, but only slightly. Hardly at all.
I suggest updating the guides with this information. If anybody has had the same experience as I have and has the ability to edit these guides, I think this modification would help a lot. Also, I’d like to here from anyone else who had the same experience and could second this suggestion.
Sorry for the repost. Just want to put it somewhere it’ll be seen.
I have 2 controllers I'd like to fix, and both have at least one stripped screw in them. Any tips for removing them?
Joe - Contestar