Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar la placa de entrada de plástico delgado y su marco de plástico. Una nueva placa de entrada proporcionará nuevos contactos eléctricos para cada botón, excepto para las palancas analógicas.
Qué necesitas
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Remueve los cinco tornillos Phillips de 7.2 mm que aseguran la carcasa trasera a el control.
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Presiona en la carcasa trasera entre los sticks analógicos y ligeramente levanta el borde inferior del resto del controlador.
it’s not very clear but for this step you need to push where the yellow dot is shown on the picture. it’s rather tough. you kind of have to move the whole back plate a bit for it to work.
I’m stuck at this step because I can’t for the life of me undo the clip
Yeah I’m lost here too. I’m pushing where the dot is but nothing is happening. What am I trying to accomplish by pushing there? Is there a clasp on the inside I’m trying to undo or something? I really don’t want to break the controller by using too much force or opening it the wrong way.
Could it be that the sixaxis I have is constructed differently? Or is this just a difficult step?
Adding: I ended up getting the shell off but ended up breaking off a small piece which I'm guessing was securing the front and back shells together. The trigger buttons and pieces remained intact on one of my two controllers which is what I was worried about, though I did have to fit the small trigger pieces back in.
The one controller seemed to fit back together just fine without the small piece that broke off, and buttons seemed to feel and work fine too.Joe -
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Empuja la carcasa trasera ligeramente hacia el borde superior del control para despejar el panel frontal de los 2 gatillos.
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Jala la carcasa trasera del control, ten cuidado de que los 2 gatillos no salgan disparados.
the "trigger button guide" link links back to this page :o
I accidentally popped a trigger off, and both L1 and R1, because I skimmed and didn't read this step. Fortunately it's not hard. The tricky part with the triggers is that there's a little spring on them. You have to press the side of the spring that's pointing away from the trigger against the sloped surface of the controller (look at the other trigger for reference, if you only popped one off). Then you just slide the trigger on until the "handlebar" bits near the center click into place.
The reset button – a small mostly-rectangular rubberized piece – fell out as I removed the rear cover. It covers the hole near the middle screw and has a post that presses SW1 on the motherboard.
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Levanta la batería de la tarjeta madre para tener suficiente acceso al conector de la batería.
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Con cuidado jala el conector de la batería de su socket en la tarjeta madre.
To safely remove the connector, you can slide a thin screwdriver inside two slots that can be found on top of the connctor housing (the beige colored one), which allow you to push on the connector. Do this slowly, prying first through one slot, then through the other, until the connector is out. This will allow you to remove the connector without pulling by accident on the wires.
Thanks Adriana. Good advice. My local battery replacement guy will not touch PS3 controllers.
Hi Adriana,
I have to say, that tip really saved me. I was pulling on the wires (this is my first time doing this) and wasgoing nowhere.
Thank you!
I highly, HIGHLY recommend that if anyone bought the protect toolkit, that they use the SIM bit as that is extremely helpful for this step!
Take note: The PS3 remote controller in this guide has some white plastic spacers shaped like ( and ) on the board which keep the battery from touching the chip. The PS3 remote controller I disassembled has no spacers on the board but rather the board has 6 holes - 4 small square corner alignment holes and two rectangular retaining holes. The battery was an LIP1472 but the battery pack casing had 4 alignment pins and 2 retaining tabs to fit into the board and hold the battery away from the chip. Why does it matter? It may or may not matter, however the fact that all designs include separation indicates that it might matter. Possible reasons are that the battery might touch the chip and cause electrostatic damage, the battery might touch the chip and not allow the chip to dissipate heat properly, or the battery might simply rattle a bit. I can not find any replacement batteries with pins and tabs. It may be necessary to create some standoffs from plastic similar to those shown above and attach to board.
My controllers new battery (ordered from ifixit) doesn’t have connectors on it like my dead battery. Help?
Its literally completely flat (the battery)
What's the battery's voltage?
The battery is 3.7 voltage 610 mAH from Sony's LIP1359 battery. Max charging is 4.2 V and 0.4A, but I found a better one from Digikey. It is still required to modify the battery's connector.
My new battery for the PS3 controller.
Yes, yes, yes brilliant suggestion! I broke the wires to the battery trying to wiggle the connector off using needle-nose pliers, but pushing through those slots on the top saved the day even after that little fiasco. Yay.
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Remueve el único tornillo Phillips de 7.2 mm que asegura la tarjeta madre a la cubierta frontal.
Most of the times, the only thing you need to repair to fix random key-presses is the soft plastic under the input-board connector to the motherboard.
At step 6 just move the motherboard upwards and you'll be able to see the connector.
Take the black soft-plastic-thing under it, and make it thicker with some tape. ( roll some tape around it 3-4 times - cut the tape properly so it can fit afterwards )
Now put everything back.
Random Presses are gone. Both of my controllers had this problem after a few hot summers and many hours of gameplay... both are fixed now.
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Jala los retenedores del motor vibratorio de la carcasa frontal para remover el conjunto de tarjeta madre.
My ~2012 EU controller (CECHZC2E) differs from this point as well. The entire white assembly comes out of the black shell by pressing in the latches on both sides of the vibration motors (you can see a small bit of white plastic stick out from under the black shell, that is where you press down).
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Remueve el conjunto de tarjeta madre de la carcasa frontal.
On my controller the button contact filament stayed inside the controller housing. Concerningly this exposed the contact ribbon for the buttons and sticks against the back of the logic board. However, the rest of the service with without issue, and the controller worked fine. This controller had a gray battery inside of it, and was likely a 60GB launch controller.
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Empuja con cuidado los dos motores de vibración fuera del marco de la placa de entrada.
I currently have some Controllers here (Modelno CECHZC2E A1 and CECHZC2E B1) where you have to press the motors upwards (to the analog sticks) to remove it from the frame but it seems that the wires are to short to so instead I unsolder both motors from the chip. In my opinion, this is also more convenient when you have to remove the main chip, because you would have been finished after Step 6.
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Levanta el conjunto de la placa de entrada de la placa base.
well is it meant to go off so easy so that why it is so stupid its just holding over the mainbord my controller dident charge or start so i removed the cover and lifter it a bit and i put it back and it works i mean who made it so it is free i mean something shuld hold it so it dosent happend to anyone like that happend to me -.- and that whas the problem well good controller i think desent good
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Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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Will a repair guide be available for the newer Dualshock 3 controllers? Because they are vastly different and look to be cheaply made. The CECHZC2U A2 is the one I'm thinking of. I ask becase it's near impossible to find the older better made controllers like the one featured here.
I took my controller apart, which is the same model as the one in the pictures, to clean it because my shoulder buttons would go haywire.
When I separated the input board from the mobo, a little piece of gray foam fell from the input board, specifically from where all the contacts meet the mobo. I thought nothing of it so I cleaned the contacts and put it back together. When I went to use it, none of the buttons did anything, not even the PS button.
This is because the function that black piece of foam, which had disintegrated thus making all the insides of the controller really nasty, is to push the contacts of the input board against the ones on the mobo. So the controller wont work without it.
What I did was I cut a piece of tape and wedged it on the part of the input board that is behind the contacts of the input board. This pushed up against the input board’s contacts and made sure it was always making contact with the mobo. Then it worked just fine!
Sharing this in case someone else runs into this problem.
I have 2 controllers I'd like to fix, and both have at least one stripped screw in them. Any tips for removing them?
Joe - Contestar