Qué necesitas
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Gira la almohadilla para la oreja 45 grados en el sentido contrario a las agujas del reloj para soltarla.
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Retira la almohadilla adhesiva negra ubicada en la parte superior del tornillo phillips que se muestra en la imagen (utilice un bisturí)
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Desenrosca el tornillo
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El lado de la batería ahora es visible y se puede reparar e inspeccionar.
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La placa del cargador USB se puede quitar con un tornillo phillips
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Ten en cuenta que hay una pequeña guía de luz conectada a la placa USB. Ten en cuenta cómo está colocada por si lo quitas.
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Para quitar el pegamento de los cables soldados, primero agréguale alcohol. Esto hará que se endurezca y sea fácil de quitar. Para comprobar soldaduras. (A menudo se ve un problema de que la soldadura manual es defectuosa)
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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18 comentarios
Any idea how to fix the microphone mute switch? Mine has failed, with the microphone always on mute. There is a small bit of static as the microphone is raised or lowered.
The switch for the microphone is connected to MU_SW on the board and is screwed with a philips screw. I unscrewed it and left it like this as the button mutes when the small black button is pressed. It was a mechanical problem that left it muted all the time. Now it works! I lost the functionality to mute when pulling the mic up but I dont mind!
Hope this helps anyone who finds this
Marcel -
Hi Malcolm, I know it is a micro switch . I believe it is on the inside of the earcup - you can inspect it when open. Remember to check with multimeter the wire soldering - it might be the cable to pcb soldering and not the switch. remember Alcohol is usefull to add onto the glue before removal. so you can inspect and measure. good luck
The micro switch works OK but the mechanics of the ring slider for the micro carrier has too much play. I got cutouts for the microphone.
Solution: disassemble the micro switch carrier PCB as described above; the swich know stays out like a triangle. Carefully remove the triangle (it is clamped into the housing with 2 sideways plastic studs) with a forceps (it comes out with a flimsy metal tongue), put it on a plain area and remove the top of the triangle with a cutter knife.
The reassembly is difficile though…
My wire is corrupted. I have a replacement. Am I better off cutting the wire from the middle and solder each of the small wires and shrink wrap or solder the whole wire from where it is connected in ear piece ? Any idea on what strategy to use for soldering if I have the full wire (i got a replacing set from a cheap used headset from ebay and the wire is ok in it)
My wire is corrupted cause wires are loose at the 3.5 connector side. I tried soldering them with new head but they got loose after a week.
