Introducción
¿Pantalla agrietada? ¿el Touch no funciona? ¿Pantalla OLED defectuosa o fallando? Usa esta guía para restaurar tu iPhone X a su correcto funcionamiento con una nueva pantalla OLED y un nuevo digitalizador. Intentar con una nueva pantalla puede ayudar si tu iPhone X aparentemente won’t turn on.
Nota: El conjunto de altavoz y sensor del auricular combinados están fijados a la parte posterior de la pantalla, los cuales están emparejados con tu iPhone individual de fábrica ''', por lo que debes transferirlo de su pantalla anterior a la nueva como se indica debajo durante cualquier reemplazo de pantalla. Contiene el indicador de daño por agua, que es parte de la característica de seguridad Face ID biométrica. Si se daña o se reemplaza, Face ID dejará de funcionar, por lo tanto, ten especial cuidado de no dañar ninguno de estos componentes durante este procedimiento. Si está dañado, solo Apple puede restablecer la función Face ID.
A partir de julio de 2018, la sustitución de la pantalla del iPhone X deshabilita el sensor de luz ambiental, incluso cuando se utilizan piezas originales de Apple. En consecuencia, las funciones de brillo automático y True Tone no funcionarán con las pantallas de reemplazo. Se cree que esto se debe a un error en iOS 11. La versión beta de iOS 12 soluciona parcialmente este problema, por lo que es posible que Apple lo resuelva en una futura actualización de iOS.
Qué necesitas
Resumen del Video
-
-
Apaga tu dispositivo para comenzar a desarmarlo
-
Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 6.9 mm de largo de la parte inferior del marco del iPhone
-
-
-
Si tu iPhone tiene la pantalla rota, mantén la rotura contenida y evita lastimarte durante la reparación colocando una cinta sobre el vidrio.
-
Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta de embalaje sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara.
-
Si los vidrios rotos dificultan que una ventosa se pegue en los siguientes pasos, intenta doblar un trozo de cinta resistente (como una cinta adhesiva) en un asa y levanta la pantalla con eso.
-
-
-
Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara.
-
Si no puedes hacer que la ventosa se adhiera en los próximos pasos, dobla un trozo de cinta resistente (como cinta adhesiva) en un asa y levanta la pantalla con eso.
-
-
-
Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear los brazos del Anti-Clamp.
-
Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.
-
Coloca las ventosas cerca del borde inferior del iPhone, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.
-
Aprieta las copas para aplicar succión en el área deseada.
-
-
-
Tira del mango azul hacia delante para bloquear los brazos.
-
Gira el mango en el sentido de las agujas del reloj 360 grados o hasta que las copas empiecen a estirarse.
-
Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre sí. Si comienzan a salirse de la alineación, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.
-
-
-
Calienta un iOpener y pásalo por los brazos del Anti-Clamp.
-
Dobla el iOpener de forma que quede sobre el borde inferior del iPhone.
-
Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo se despegue y se abra el hueco.
-
Inserta una púa de apertura en el hueco que hay debajo de la pantalla y el bisel de plástico, no en la propia pantalla.
-
Omite los siguientes tres pasos.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.
-
-
-
Usa un secador de pelo o una pistola de aire caliente o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.
General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:
consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.
You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object
Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job
If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs
-
-
-
Si estás utilizando una sola ventosa, aplícala en el borde inferior del teléfono, evitando la porción curvada del cristal.
If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.
3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)
-
-
-
Tira de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un ligero hueco entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.
-
Inserta una púa de apertura en el espacio debajo de la pantalla y el marco de plástico, no en la pantalla en sí.
In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.
The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!
There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.
The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!
-
-
Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?
-
-
-
Re-inserta tu púa en el borde inferior del iPhone y deslízala a lo largo del lado derecho para continuar separando el adhesivo.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.
-
-
-
Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior de la pantalla, mientras tiras suavemente o mueve la pantalla hacia abajo en la dirección del puerto Lightning.
-
Desliza la púa hacia la esquina opuesta y corte cualquier adhesivo restante que asegure la pantalla.
-
-
-
Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como si abrieras la contratapa de un libro.
-
Como se muestra, asegúrate de que el marco salga con la pantalla y no se quede atascado en el teléfono.
-
Apoya la pantalla contra algo para mantenerla en alto mientras trabajas con el teléfono.
My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.
Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.
-
-
-
Remueve los cinco tornillos Y000 que sujetan el soporte de conector de la placa lógica y que tienen los siguientes largos:
-
Tres tornillos de 1.1 mm
-
Un tornillo de 3.1 mm
-
Un tornillo de 3.7 mm
One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).
Rich May 23, 2020
My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)
So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.
That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.
I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!
Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.
To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …
-
-
-
Remueve el soporte.
I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?
The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.
Agree with Jeff
cgtyoder -
for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.
Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.
-
-
-
Usa la punta de un spudger o una uña para hacer palanca en el conector de la batería y levantarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
-
Dobla el conector para separarlo de la placa lógica para prevenir que entre accidentalmente en contacto con el zócalo y que proporcione alimentación al teléfono durante la reparación.
cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?
note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!
Thanks, already did it)
-
-
-
Usa la punta de un spudger o una uña para desconectar el conector de cable de panel OLED.
Snap ‘em in like little Legos.
-
-
-
Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable de digitalizador de su zócalo.
This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.
Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).
Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.
I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.
Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼
-
-
-
Con cuidado levanta el cable hasta que el adhesivo se separe.
It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.
Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!
My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)
Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.
I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.
Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo
my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???
@kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.
You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.
-
-
-
Remueve el ensamblaje de la pantalla.
I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair
CAUTION:
Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.
Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.
So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.
-
-
-
Retira el tornillo Y000 de 1.2 mm en la parte posterior del ensamblaje de la pantalla, cerca del puerto de la cámara de infrarrojos.
when I opened my iPhone the screw was already stripped, I had the phone once at an Apple store for repair about 2 years ago. Had not opened it in between so it seems they stripped the screw there or it came like that from the factory. Any ideas? I don’t want to try and force it out.
Be careful: the metal clip beneath this screw it’s really small, make sure not losing it.
Steps 19 and on are all on the screen you just removed. Not the phone side. I didn’t look closely at the image and just went for the screw in roughly the same place on the phone body side. First warning sign it’s a phillips - but more importantly I was working on the entirely wrong piece. I guess you’ll probably figure it out faster than I did.
FYI: My iphone XS has a slightly different screw position for the one shown to have a “clip”. There is no clip for this screw on mine. Maybe a rev update because of the clip getting lost and being hard to reinstall?
FYI - The sensor assembly of the replacement looks a bit different from my original one. The screw is located further to the right on the original. As a result, I am unable to attach the sensor assembly on the replacement part, because the fixture is at a different position.
Unfortunately, there’s nothing I can do about it apart asking for a refund.
Screws at my Iphone X are normal,but even w heat,i cant take them off,and even the strongest member of my family cant do this
-
-
-
Debajo del tornillo que acabas de quitar, se encuentra un pequeño clip metálico de conexión a tierra. Si no salió con el tornillo, quítalo ahora.
sin ese clip la señal wifi se recibe a duras penas
Is there any way we buy the ground metal clip separately please if there’s a way to get it emailed me
Reinstalling this clip + screw is super hard =P
It is pretty difficult without using a zoom in. A 2nd iphone camera zoomed in at 8x while using magnetic screwdrivers makes the job a little easier
Yes eBay has it
Screw Gasket Ear Speaker for Apple iPhone X Replacement Repair Phone Part Speak
This looks different on my iPhone X. There’s no clip. It turns out that the replacement screen is NOT compatible with my iPhone. See my comment on Step 23. Must be a different HW revision. The whole front sensor assembly casting is a bit different. After replacing 2 screens of older iPhone generations this is my first failure due to HW incompatibility. From here on forward I probably won’t attempt another major smart phone repair. Technology is getting to complex for DIY. Will buy an iPhone 13 Pro with insurance (even though it’s utterly overpriced and I always like the DIY challenge)…
it’s not technology that’s getting more advanced, it’s apple creating more barriers between a DIY repair vs funneling your hard earned dollar into apple care and the Genius Bar
I did the same thing here - its the x vs xs and my partner ordered the part
I ripped off the side clips and ones in wrong place (put the old screen next to it - and rip them off with needle nose plyers (in a rolling motion so you get each solder one at a time)). the smaller clips that had enough room i left.. then i could force the screen on.
And its working ...... lets see for how long - the sealant and small clips seem to be holding it together okQue pasa si no pones ese clip?
-
-
-
Retira otros dos tornillos Y000 que sujetan el ensamblaje del altavoz / sensor:
-
Un tornillo de 1.6 mm
-
Un tornillo de 1.3 mm
What do you do if the 1.6mm tripoint screw won’t come out…? I think it may be stripped :(
You could try using an old screwdriver & carefully adding a dab of superglue to the screw to attach it to the screwdriver, Then the screw may come out, Superglue’s strength is holding 2 pieces together when the stress point is pulling the 2 pieces away from each other. Superglue becomes surprisingly easy to break when twisting the 2 pieces. So be careful since the rotation of the screw will put the stress point at the weakest of the glue’s strength.
I would suggest:
1. Try a small precision flat head, a good quality one, I bought some that were supposed to be to remove stripped screws, about 20-30 bucks for 4 or 5 of them, and they have saved my butt many times.
2. I have been able to remove stripped screws with wire cutters. Or you can try some vamp pliers but they are probably too large for this situation.
3. If the last two fail, the course of action is to basically destroy the head of that screw (assuming you are removing the stuff you need for your new lcd, which is very likely) they have drill bits called easy outs or screw removing drill bit, which is a drill bit with the spiral going the opposite direction (for a screw that tiny you can take a small drill bit, cut and sharpen the end that normally has no spiral, I have made that work in the past) the point is that as you drill in, the drill bit is digging and moving counterclockwise, so at some point as it digs in it will get “stuck” and keep spinning go the screw, thus removing it.
-
-
-
Usa un secador de pelo o una pistola de calor o prepara un iOpener y aplíquelo en la parte superior frontal de la pantalla durante aproximadamente un minuto, para suavizar el adhesivo que sujeta los sensores.
I could not have done this without the iOpener, it was worth the investment!
-
-
-
Desliza con cuidado el borde plano de su spudger debajo del cable flexible debajo del micrófono.
-
Gíralo suavemente para separar el micrófono, teniendo cuidado de no forzar o dañar el cable flexible.
-
Si es necesario, usa la punta del spudger para terminar de separar el micrófono de su muesca en el panel frontal.
-
-
-
Trabajando de izquierda a derecha, desliza una selección de apertura debajo del cable flexible y debajo del sensor de proximidad + módulo de iluminador de inundación.
-
Mueva y levante suavemente para separar el módulo de su muesca en el panel frontal.
-
-
-
Si eliminaste con éxito todo el sensor de luz ambiental, como se muestra en la primera foto, continúa con el siguiente paso a continuación.
-
Si la tira difusora blanca se desprende y permanece incrustada en la pantalla, como se muestra en la segunda foto, deberás sacarla con cuidado a lo largo del borde superior con una herramienta de cuchilla o palanca. Volver a aplicar calor primero puede hacer esta tarea un poco más fácil.
In my case the diffuser came out with the light sensor, but not completely. A layer of the diffuser was left behind in the recess. We will see how it goes. ;) I will report back.
what colour is the diffuser
also can you show the position of sensors going back into the new screen
-
-
-
Retira el altavoz del auricular y el conjunto del sensor frontal.
-
Sensor de proximidad
-
Iluminador de inundaciones
-
El módulo debe colocarse de manera que estos componentes no queden obstruidos por ningún adhesivo.
there was no bracket on my new screen I purchased from here.. am I supposed to heat up and remove the old one, or was their supposed to be one on the new screen ??
@br0k3nilluzion If your new display didn’t come with a front camera frame, you can (and should) remove the old one from your broken display and transfer it over. Use heat and careful wiggling/prying to remove it—and if it’s stubborn, add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Hope this helps!
Does face-id stop working if the black plastic separates from the flex(The orange and red dot)?
If the black plastic piece with the flood illuminator and the proximity sensor is separated from the flex cable, then Face ID will definitely not work. Be very careful not to damage any of the parts in the front sensor assembly.
There is some sort of a tape in front of the flood illuminator which is not present on the replacement screen! Is that gonna cause a problem too?
BTW, it’s so difficult to position the front camera frame without glue. I guess it takes a few attempts of trial and error!
It might not cause any major problems, but there’s a chance that it could effect FaceID functionality. If possible, transfer the tape from the old screen to the new one.
I find it better, regardless of if your new screen comes with the transparent front camera frame, to remove the front sensor assembly from the old screen with the frame, and lifting up the whole assembly using the frame. That way you do not need to apply heat directly to the fragile assembly, but apply it to the other side, the front of the screen at the top, instead, to soften the frame adhesive. The frame is then usually easy to pry loose using a narrow spudger, and comes off cleanly. After that it is much easier to remove the sensors and microphone from the frame, no heat needed usually. And if your new screen doesn’t come with the frame, just plonk the whole frame/sensor assembly down in the right place, and boom, Bob’s your uncle.
Hello I have an iPhone X i Bought it in 2019 with Face ID not working ( not available try later ) I think the screen was changed with another original , tru tone Off , Als off no auto brightness (and the PROXIMITY SENSOR too ! ) no black screen in calls, i would like to ask u if the earpiece speaker flex was changed with another one (all components ) not the original , did proximity sensor still work ?? Because I don’t know is the original flex of my iphone or not ? I found some scratches in the flex it appears to have small cut so I don’t know the PROXIMITY SENSOR not working because there are a small cut in the flex or because the flex is not the same ?? And if the flex is not the original it can disable (proximity sensor)too not only flood and als ?? Thank you
Yes it should still work. If you change the assembly to one that isn’t original to that iPhone X everything except the FaceID should still work - I have done so several times for clients. So the reason for yours not working is probably the same small scratches and cuts you have seen. The cable is a bit fragile and some of the copper leads running through it are extremely thin.
Lars -
To keep True Tone function on the replacement screen you’ll need a chip data programmer EEPROM to copay data from the old screen onto the new one. There a device called JC-V1 which should do the trick.
Screen glitching slightly after changing the screen. Any suggestion to what it can be?
Tim. I had a glitchy screen as well. It would force touch out of nowhere, and “ghost touch” every now and then. Eventually, the top half of the screen stopped responding. Reach out to customer service ASAP. You may have a defective screen.
My front ear speaker not working . The mic it’s working . Apple said you have to replace all the screen to fix the ear speaker because it’s connected with one cable all together. If I buy the speaker and change it myself it will work after or I’m getting into trouble?
I have the same problem. I have the same problem. how did you solve?
Be sure to remove the blue protective film from the BACK of a replacement screen.
Thank you so much for this. It does not look at all like it needs to be removed.
Thank you, Jim, came here just to look for that advice!
can this piece assembly cause for the back camera and flashlight not work? All I did was change the screen and transfer this earpiece and it says warning sign that the flashlight needs to cool down and back camera not working
disregard my last post, problem solved on my end customer had a bad back camera due to bad fall and so i replaced it and now the back camera and flashlight works. :)
Hello I replaced today the second time iphone x display. The first time after a while the front camera stopped working. Today mounted the second time the display and the front camera works, while the rear one does not work. What can I do? Thanks
-
Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original; es posible que deba transferir los componentes restantes o quitar los respaldos adhesivos de la pieza nueva antes de la instalación.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra Acomunidad de respuestaspara obtener ayuda con la solución de problemas.
Si "aún" tienes problemas para completar tu reparación y piensas en cambiar tu dispositivo, mira estas ofertas de iPhone X en Backmarket— tienen un gran surtido de dispositivos usados y restaurados con una garantía fantástica.
Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original; es posible que deba transferir los componentes restantes o quitar los respaldos adhesivos de la pieza nueva antes de la instalación.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra Acomunidad de respuestaspara obtener ayuda con la solución de problemas.
Si "aún" tienes problemas para completar tu reparación y piensas en cambiar tu dispositivo, mira estas ofertas de iPhone X en Backmarket— tienen un gran surtido de dispositivos usados y restaurados con una garantía fantástica.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
659 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
99 comentarios
does a new display not come with faceid sensor? so you have to remove this and instal it again with the new glass?
yeah, also face id will not work if you don’t replace the flex. Just be careful
jump1n -
FaceID is diabled if the hardware detects a new FaceID module. Using the original parts avoids this issue so that the FaceID feature is’t disabled. This could prevent a FaceID module from being replaced with a doctored or unlicensed part which may fail to provide the same level of security than the Apple supplied part.
Sorry, if I replace my iPhone X Lcd, will the Face ID stop working?
@valebuka, As long as you follow the guide and move your earpiece speaker assembly with its sensors to the new screen, Face ID will continue to work.
Just as a note, I know what you mean when you say LCD, but technically the iPhone X does not have an LCD display; they switched instead to an OLED display.
Hey guys,
I have just completed my third iPhone X screen replacement, but now the taptic engine no longer functions and the phone no longer detects wifi ssid’s.
Does anyone have any advice?
Akex even though you were not working in the area of the Taptic Engine, it sounds like something has happened down there because the wifi long antenna flex cable is attached to the frame at the bottom of the phone that is secured with seven screws. That frame and wifi aerial cable glued to the underside runs right next to the Taptic Engine . The frame also carries three EMC Grounding Pads. Its shown in Step 23 of the iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement Guide but they dont mentions what the cable is. iFixit dont carry it as a spare part either.
So is the iPhone XS’s cracked screen replacement different from the iPhone X’s?
@lucasmar The procedure for the XS screen replacement is very nearly identical—you can find the guide for it right here.
Does anyone of you know that when you replace iphone x display, you need to transfer codes from the old cracked display to work fine?
Yes, it is needed for TrueTone to work perfect. I guess Apple fixed it on newer updates, but i’m pretty sure there’s a tool to trasnfer the “serial number” of the old screen into your old one. I may get one for the shop soon!
Rafael B -
The codes are not transferred. Certain components are have an ID number similar to a MAC address. The components have unique IDs & are registered with the hardware at time of manufacture, When replacing some components, like an LCD display, the unique ID components are transferred from the old part, the LCD display, to the new part, This maintains the functionality of those components, Replacement components need software only available to authorized Apple repair centers to add the new component IDs to the unit. In features like FaceID, this increases the security of iPhones by making it much more difficult to exchange components used by FaceID with components which have been hacked to make it easier to corrupt the iPhone security or for less reputable sources to sell cheaper fake components,
Is it possible to separate the digitizer and OLED flex cables from the screen and just replace them?
Possible, sure. Practical, no. You’d need an expensive microsoldering rig and a fair bit of practice to pull it off, plus a donor screen to get the cables from. From a DIY perspective, it’s far faster and cheaper to simply replace the entire display.
if you are replacing the iphone x screen with a screen from a different iphone X is everything the same
No, you need to transfer the earpiece speaker/ sensor flex cable in order for Face ID to work. If you break/ rip or forget to transfer it the display should still work fine… BUT…. no Face ID :(
Rafael B -
After replacing the display correctly, will the face id work?
Absolutely. If you did everything without mistakes you’re expecting the screen and all other functions to keep working.
Don’t forget to transfer the old earpiece speaker/ sensor flex cable from your broken screen so you can still use Face ID. That cable is paired by Apple to the logic board.
Rafael B -
Great work on the instructions on removing the lcd from my Iphone X. I ended up dropping it from my lap when I got out of the car and place a hairline crack but the screen still completely worked. I ended up purchasing a replacement oled and a glass to replace the cracked screen on a later time. All the info provided here is always right on point. I just want to let you know us techs appreciate a solid source of reliable detailed information with pictures as well. Thanks again and keep up the great work
I just finished this repair.
My new screen is showing incorrect battery information.
1. Not showing charging when plugged in.
2. Showing 1% charge. Charge was 30% when I started.
Any help would be fantastic. Thank you.
David
Battery needs to be recalibrated once the replacement is done, the wrong battery percentage is normal, but if is not charging should be also something else, have you disconnected the battery connector before any other operation?
i dont know what happened but im not getting poor WiFi and Bluetooth and cellular reception is there any thing wrong with the fame that comes with the new display replacement?
Exceptionally detailed and clear guide.
I tried to clean off display adhesive right away upon opening. Found it’s much easier once the 4 connectors are detached and the display screen separated from the rest of the phone. As for the battery, OLED and digitizer cable connectors, a fingernail works best for me to catch the edges without harming the black silicone seal around each of the connectors. The spudger is a bit less precise and without the same tactile finesse.
Thanks, Jeff Suovanen.
Pregunta: si reemplazo este repuesto por uno nuevo, sigue funcionando el Face ID? O deja de funcionar? Saludos
You must transfer the original sensor onto the new screen.
Debe transferir el sensor original a la nueva pantalla.
have they come out with a true tone fix for the IPhone X with a replacement screen yet? Have one with a cracked screen and was wanting to replace it, but not loose truetone feature. Thanks
True Tone can be restored with a screen programmer, although the programmer itself costs ~$50 or more—so it’s more economical if you’re doing more than one screen repair. We’ll have a guide with instructions for using the programmer sometime in the next month or so. If that’s something you’re interested in, keep your old screen—you’ll need to use the programmer to clone some data from the old screen to the new one.
Hi Jeff Suovanen,
Is there already a guide or a release date for the programmer you mentioned on previous comments? I would love to recover True Tone on my iPhone X :(
“True Tone can be restored with a screen programmer, although the programmer itself costs ~$50 or more—so it’s more economical if you’re doing more than one screen repair. We’ll have a guide with instructions for using the programmer sometime in the next month or so. If that’s something you’re interested in, keep your old screen—you’ll need to use the programmer to clone some data from the old screen to the new one.”
Thanks!
Guten Tag, habe den goldenen Endungskontakt verloren. Nach dem Umbau, funktioniert mein Face ID nicht mehr. Gibt es Möglichkeiten den Endungskontakt zu kaufen. Habe im Internet nichts gefunden.
salve, una domanda
perché dopo smontaggio e sostituzione dello schermo il riconoscimento facciale non funziona più?
Perché il face id come il touch id è associato alla scheda madre, ora se ha portato tutte le componenti dallo schermo rotto a quello nuovo dovrebbe funzionare mentre se ha acquistato uno schermo pre assemblato chiaramente non funzionerà mai.
Se invece rientra nel primo caso e ancora non funziona i connettori potrebbero non essere connessi correttamente o uno dei componenti del face id danneggiati (la cosa più probabile sono i flex cable che si rompono con niente durante la sostituzione)
A certificated Shop told me that the displays have to be coded that the True Tone works, I see they use a special software, and then the True Tone works. Have someone Informationen about the software they used to code the display. The touch reaction after the coding work also exactly like the original. I need to know more about their calibration software.
Fantastic! My battery swelled up and ruined my screen. Purchased a screen kit and battery and the repair went perfect. I originally was going to buy a screen and battery from amazon, but this kit was first class. The tools are very nice too. So in the end I’m glad I spent an extra $80 and got quality parts, great instruction, and nice tools. Best part is of course is my phone is aces again!
Does the replacement screen come with a new display module or is that a separate part??
As 1 part, no worries
Uri -
Beautiful. Amazed at myself and proud. I was also referring to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22_bONU0... and did it in 3 and a half hours today. Thank you!
Does this repair make any conflict with True Tone setting? I’ve heard that if I don’t connect the replacement screen to certain apple machine the True Tone setting disappears or is no longer adjustable.
That is correct. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.
Does anyone know if after replacement the iPhone stays waterproof?
Awesome tutorial Mate!
Hello guys
I just replaced the screen for my Iphone X. I got the display from https://www.buypaz.com/en/original-apple...
But after replacing the screen and turning it on only the back light is functioning. I tried reusing the old display and it worked just fine. Is there any suggestions to why this one is not working or is my new screen just a bust ?
Because of my phone screen having the top half frozen, I cannot shut down my phone. Do I just wait for it to die completely? Before install?
You can wait for it to die completely! If you don’t want to though, as long as the battery is at a low percentage and you disconnect it as soon as you open the phone (as this guide instructs), you should be okay. Best of luck to you!
Jerk move not including extra screws in the kit (not even one) and reassembly instruction. Thank goodness for https://youtu.be/22_bONU08dc
This was my first time fixing any part of a phone. Pretty easy to follow. I had no major issues. Nice to see first hand what’s inside a phone. Thank you guys!
Do we need to reprogram the display before using it??
There are no instructions on how to put it
Hi Pranit,
You do not need to reprogram the display to have it work, but True Tone is disabled after the repair.
Just completed the disassembly and the replacement of the screen up to Step 13 in reverse order (starting from the bottom of the guide). I am now attempting to power up the device, but it won’t come on. Any idea what I may have done wrong?
Update: plugging the phone to my USB port in order to perform DFU reset caused it to reboot and start up. So, kudos to the author and editors of the guide!
Great guide!! repaired phone and good to go
Very detailed guide and easy to follow. I successfully replaced my screen after my iphonex got wet with a green screen. Thanks Jeff Suovanen and others who contributed to this guide!
Hello, what about the glue? Where can i find a new glue to apply after replacement?
love you all guys!! best guide ever
Super minutieuse comme réparation, mais avec de la patience et de l’organisation c’est tout bon. Tout fonctionne du premier coup!
Merci encore pour le tutoriel!
So I’ll start with something nice I guess: the guide, like all ifixit guides, is very good and thorough.
However, I just completed this repair (twice…), and I’m not a happy camper. The first screen they sent me had really weird graphical glitching/tearing. The second replacement screen has a bright off-color “hot spot” right in the middle. The digitizer is pretty bad…it barely registers a “Reachability” swipe, and it frequently registers phantom touches and completely misses swipes/touches. The cherry on top is that it also drains my battery noticeably more quickly.
I’m not satisfied with this replacement. It’s non-trivial to change the screen and there’s no way for you to properly test it prior to taking your phone apart, so it’s a REALLY bad customer experience to receive a screen that never should have passed QA. I don’t know if all of these cheaper screens fail so miserably at correctly registering touches or if I’m just the unluckiest person in the world but I wouldn’t take my chances.
I used this guide to simply cleaning out my speakers and jt worked fine. But I’m now having a display issue where right side of my screen is white/pink lines. Any clues on why this happening? I’ve tried plugging in the display multiple times and still the same results.
Thank you for a well explained well written guide. It made my screen replacement a very happy experience.
I followed this guideline to fix my iPhone X with LCD screen. Worked for several weeks, but completely died one day after charging. Sometimes there is also mistake touching and wrong displayed pictured like false color. Disappointing.
Hi Chen Chen,
If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
Completed the replacement of the screen on an iPhone X. First, I HATE y000 screws! I think this is Apple’s way of trying to dissuade users from attempting a repair no matter how adept they are at repairing electronic equipment. Pentalobe is fine, I can work with them. Second, big fail (IMHO) on no warning about removing the protective film on the BACK of the screen. It’s not obvious that the film needs to be removed. As this was the first time repairing an iPhone X I did not pick up on removing the film until I could not get the touch function to work. Had to disassemble the screen to remove the film once I realized it needed to come off. A caveat sticker on the packing material would be a nice touch. As the repair was a success I am pleased. The instructions were very good especially the link to the adhesive installation. Could use a note of caution when cleaning around the bottom ground contacts. The fingers appear to be foil and are easily damaged.
Sorry for the trouble there. Removing the film is mentioned in the conclusion: “Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.” In other words, the new part should look just like the replacement part before you continue. So I guess the question is, were these instructions unclear (in which case, maybe we should rephrase)—or, did you not notice them at all? (In which case, maybe we should make them more prominent.) Good job working through it though. Congrats on a successful repair!
Thanks admin share this information
Sehr gut und ausführlich erklärt
its perfect!
I found this a great help when replacing my iphone screen, but now my screen is not responding to the touch function, it was fine when I tested it, then when I charged the battery it stopped working. The instructions are great though and I’ll use them again when I get another new screen and hope this one works!
For anyone saying that true tone will not work after a screen replacement, there is a way. You just need an iPhone screen reprogrammer. There’s one online called the JC PRO1000S which is used to transfer the phones serial number onto the new display so true tone will work again. If you can’t afford the JC PRO100S, just get the JC V1 which can be found here: https://www.jcprogrammer.com/jc-v1-iphon...
This is the JC PRO1000S https://www.jcprogrammer.com/jc-operatio...
You’ll need to download a program after getting the product, but after that you should be good to go.
For anyone going to question how I know this, I watch a lot of Hugh Jefferys videos.
Keep in mind this will only work with the iPhone 7 and later.
im using the JC-V1 and JCID-V1S, it only works to move the (true tone) info if the new screen have a working EEPROM chip.
I’m planning to do a display replacement for iPhone X, but do I need to transfer/programming anything to new display to be sure that display, FaceID and etc. to works?
If you want true tone to work on the new screen you have to move the serial/software with a programmer tool to the new screen, for face id to work on new screen you just have to move the thingy at the top of the screen, it have a flex cabel that connects to the motherboard, if unclear there´s beter comments further up.
hi, I replaced the screen, I followed the guide to the letters and I passed the sensor of the face id with the upper speaker from the old screen to the new one, but once everything is mounted, the face id does not work and neither does the speaker. but if I take them off the screen and connect them without the screen, the face id works and so does the speaker. Why?
doyou sell something to glue bacck again the display to the phone?
Yes! Use this display adhesive for the phone.
Thank you iFixit! Love your guides and your products.
Just fixed my iPhone X screen for the first time using your replacement screen and kit.
Additionally, I have used your guides and products to fix multiple iPhone 6 screens and replace the battery. You help me keep my phone in working order for 4-5 years
I bought the screen and tool kit set, followed these instructions to the letter, and successfully breathed new life into my son’s iPhone X. The only thing I would add to this is that you should use blue thread lock to keep these tiny screws from backing out. Even with it, I found some of the screws very loose when I removed them, which may be because the phone gets hot, but it doesn’t hurt. The trickiest part was replacing the waterproof display adhesive, but with the way the template backings were set up, it made it very easy to get it lined up and properly placed. The trick is to go slow. Thanks, iFixit! Another quality product!
Only comment would to add a re-assembly. Give new people some confidence following along even though its just the opposite to put together again. Really nice write up and video guide though!
Thank you, it was a great guide with lots of info !
followed the instructions, now receiving a 4013 error. I was told I might need to swap the chip in my old display to the new display. How do I do this.
Great step by step articel thanks. I have just followed and replaced cracked screen on iphone X.
All went as per the diagrams and phone works fine except the front facing (selfie) camera no longer works. Weirdly the rear camera is fine but selecting the selfie camera shows a blury version of the rear camera picture! Any ideas what could cause that. It was definately working before the screen replacement but I have triple checked and no cables are damaged and all seated properly. What would cause the front camera to play up?
Nice :v
Article is great, but i can't find a proper screen replacement for mi Iphone X (its a A1865), i bought two, and both are way thicker and have a metal frame attached to them, but the original screen i'm taking out doesn't have it, neither it has the Speaker and FaceID sensors attached to it, they are in the phone side. Any advice on how to proceed?
What types of screens do iphone x have? I see a lot of different varieties here : https://teamcare.vn/thay-man-hinh-iphone...
- iPhone X GX Screen
- iPhone X Zy Screen
Thank you very much for this excellent explanation
I lost the golden thingy in step 22, what funktion(s) will be lost, when I reassamble the phone without it?
i follwed all the instructions very well…but my screen is just black …what could be the problem?
Hi Dalitso Garth! Potentially, the issue could be caused by an incorrectly seated cable like the display and/or battery cable or a faulty replacement part. I'd recommend following our troubleshooting checklist: Troubleshooting Problems After a Repair. There is also a specific troubleshooting page for the iPhone X: iPhone X Won't Turn On.
The guide might be good, but UNFORTUNATELY, THE SPARE PARTS SOLD BY IFIXIT ARE VERY POOR QUALITY.
AFTER A 2 MONTHS USAGE, I CAN CONFIRM THAT:
- THE NEW BATTERY LASTS RIDICULOUSLY SHORT FOR A NEW ONE.
- THE SCREEN LOOKS GOOD, BUT IT HAS AREAS WITH LOW TOUCH SENSITIVITY AND LOCKS THE PHONE RANDOMLY, SOMETIMES FOR 1 MINUTE, SOMETIMES FOR 1 HOUR.
IS THERE WARRANTY FOR THESE PARTS?
My phone is broke right the screen is very cracked and when it charges it charges but it won’t come on you guys think you can fix it
There are 6.81mm long screws!
Daniel - Contestar
One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?
cgtyoder - Contestar
same situation here
kaunomarcius - Contestar
Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?
patronics - Contestar
Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.
patronics - Contestar
I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!
cgtyoder - Contestar
Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.
Kyle Harris - Contestar
yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.
Dulce Vidal - Contestar
This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…
Uri - Contestar
These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.
Dan Long -
@Dan Long is right
Uri -
Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.
William Olstad - Contestar
The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out
justin - Contestar
Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?
Clarence Williams - Contestar
William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.
punkinann - Contestar
If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.
Dan Smith - Contestar