Cambio de LCD de una Nintendo Switch

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

Step 10) Remplazo del Riel del sensor del Joy Con derecho del Nintendo Switch

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

spudger technique is perfect.

For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

What's on the heatsink?

Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled

I’ve torn a few ribbon cables in my time. Use your tweezers to nudge the tabs on either side of the ribbon cable and “walk” the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector - slowly!! This should help prevent any tears in the ribbon cable when using tweezers.

I used a hair dryer because I don’t own a microwave and didn’t like the idea of boiling the iOpener - which apparently doesn’t work that well anyway. For reference, the hair dryer I used was a CONAIR 1875 Styler. I also used an infrared thermometer, which you’ll absolutely need if you’re not going to use the iOpener. You need the infrared thermometer because you must know when to stop heating the digitizer. There are delicate components nestled in the top of the Switch’s faceplate - right where you’ll be putting the heat. To begin:

1. Prepare your work area by clearing the surrounding surfaces of anything plastic, metal, or electronic - surrounding areas are sure to reach temps of up to 110 °F (43 °C).

2. Get something non-conductive like a small cardboard box to rest the disassembled Switch on top of. This will help to target the heat on the specified area, depending on which step you’re on.

3. Grab a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape of the Switch screen, or around the same size. You will need this cardboard to protect the LCD and delicate internals.

4. Set your infrared thermometer to the side or somewhere close to the spot where you’ll be heating the digitizer.

5. Grab your hairdryer and set that to the side as well.

6. Position the Switch on the cardboard box so that you are ready to begin heating the first side of the digitizer as specified in Step 28. I found that it was easier to have the heated side facing me, so that I can hold the hairdryer more comfortably.

7. Begin heating the bottom of the digitizer, starting on the lowest setting of your hairdryer. You’ll want to hold the hairdryer just close enough that you have about three or so inches between the heat and the Switch itself. Heating the digitizer will take some time, so do not expect the temperature to rise rapidly. A rapid rise in temperature can damage sensitive internal components, even with the cardboard piece in place.

8. After 1 min 30 sec, check the digitizer temperature and make sure that the surface temperature (the opaque black border, not the actual screen) registers at 130 °F (54 °C) or higher. Continue heating on Low until a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher is reached.

9. When a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher has been reached, raise the hairdryer another two to three inches from the digitizer. Switch your hairdryer heat setting to High ( or Med, for three-temp hairdryers) and continue heating until a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached. Check the temperature every 2 secs to ensure even, consistent heating. Once a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached, do not heat the digitizer any further. Doing so could damage the LCD, internal antennas, or faceplate.

10. Repeat steps 6 thru 9 alongside the guide (Steps 28 thru 38) to complete the digitizer adhesive softening process.

Good luck! If this causes anyone any problems, reply here and I’ll try to respond as quickly as possible.

Used a heat gun at 3/4 power for TWO 2-min bursts. The remainder of the sides each took a single 2-min burst.

My digitizer separated from the lcd screen during this step. Wasn’t a problem. Just something to be aware of

I have done this and replaced the LCD with a brand new one (the backlight wasn't working). I tested the backlight and it was fine, but now that I put it together and tested it the screen and backlight doesn't work. Does anyone have any ideas where it's gone wrong???