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Introducción

This guide shows you how to replace the all-in-one Display and MagSafe cable of your Apple Thunderbolt Display.

  1. Lay down the display with screen side up. Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base. Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.
    • Lay down the display with screen side up.

    • Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base.

    • Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.

    • The glass screen to connected to the rest of the display by small magnets. Lift slowly and the screen will come right off.

    Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.

    Josh Miller - Contestar

  2. Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver. Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.
    • Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.

    The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.

    Garrett Mace - Contestar

    Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.

    You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).

    A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around

    Per Lohmann Poulsen - Contestar

  3. Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards. It can be very helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold the LCD up while you work with the cables underneath.
    • Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards.

    • It can be very helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold the LCD up while you work with the cables underneath.

    • There are four wires that connect the LCD to the rest of the components. Make sure not to pull hard and break any of the wires.

    Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Contestar

    Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.

    Josh Miller - Contestar

  4. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.
    • For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.

  5. For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar. Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle. Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.
    • For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar.

    • Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle.

    • Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.

    What is this connector for?

    pdspanagel - Contestar

    I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).

    Scott Havard - Contestar

    I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?

    Ryan Stryker - Contestar

    I also screwed up this wire.

    erybovic - Contestar

    I also screwed up this wire. Wondering what the wire name is.

    erybovic - Contestar

    Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable

    Klaus Finke - Contestar

  6. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.
    • For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.

  7. For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your TR 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.
    • For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your TR 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.

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  9. The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced! The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!
    • The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!

  10. You should now see the AC power inlet right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components). Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.
    • You should now see the AC power inlet right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components).

    • Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.

    • Take the tweezers and remove the piece of tape holding the wires to the casing.

    • There is only one connector that needs to be taken out (even though there are two right next to each other!).

    • Grab the connector from the bottom and pull it carefully from its corresponding socket.

    Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.

    Isaac - Contestar

  11. Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter. Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.
    • Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.

  12. The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power inlet needs to be removed. Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws. Disconnect the speaker from behind the logic board by carefully pulling at the plastic end of the cable.
    • The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power inlet needs to be removed.

    • Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws.

    • Disconnect the speaker from behind the logic board by carefully pulling at the plastic end of the cable.

    • Remove the speaker.

  13. Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the power adapter is easily accessible. Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the adapter.
    • Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the power adapter is easily accessible.

    • Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the adapter.

  14. The power adapter is connected by three screws. Use the T10 screwdriver to remove them. The screw that holds in both the AC adapter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws. The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the power adapter will be able to be removed from the casing.
    • The power adapter is connected by three screws. Use the T10 screwdriver to remove them.

    • The screw that holds in both the AC adapter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws.

    • The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the power adapter will be able to be removed from the casing.

    Nothing about the power cable itself here. That has to be unplugged first, or when you get to this point, you’ll have to carefully unplug the main power cable from the back of the AC adapter you just removed in Step 13, and feed it through the hole in the back of the case.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR - Contestar

  15. Remove the two T10 screws from the metal plate holding the cable in place. Remove the metal plate.
    • Remove the two T10 screws from the metal plate holding the cable in place.

    • Remove the metal plate.

  16. Carefully remove three cable connectors from the logic board by walking them out while holding them at the plastic end. From bottom to top these are: Fan power cable
    • Carefully remove three cable connectors from the logic board by walking them out while holding them at the plastic end.

    • From bottom to top these are:

    • Fan power cable

    • Temperature sensor cable

    • Fan control cable

    I dont see any Temp sensor cable, just the top and bottom ones

    asebastianjo - Contestar

  17. Remove the seven Torx T10 screws from the logic board.
    • Remove the seven Torx T10 screws from the logic board.

  18. Now you are able to reach behind the logic board to disconnect the cable running to the power board. The connector has a small tab on the back that needs to be pressed for the connector to be pulled out.
    • Now you are able to reach behind the logic board to disconnect the cable running to the power board.

    • The connector has a small tab on the back that needs to be pressed for the connector to be pulled out.

  19. Carefully flip the logic board to the left using the remaining cables as a hinge to get access to the display port. Remove the two Torx T6 screws from the metal plate securing the display port connector. Remove the metal plate.
    • Carefully flip the logic board to the left using the remaining cables as a hinge to get access to the display port.

    • Remove the two Torx T6 screws from the metal plate securing the display port connector.

    • Remove the metal plate.

    i removed both the top and bottom metal plates in order to fit a 3rd party thunderbolt cable

    asebastianjo - Contestar

  20. Unplug the Thunderbolt cable from the logic board. Thread the remaining Thunderbolt & MagSafe cable through the cutout in the rear case.
    • Unplug the Thunderbolt cable from the logic board.

    • Thread the remaining Thunderbolt & MagSafe cable through the cutout in the rear case.

    Nothing here about the two pieces of black fabric tape you have to undo to release the Thunderbolt and Magsafe cables; also see Isaac’s comment on Step 9 about having to unplug the Magsafe adapter. You can wait until this step to do that, but it still has to be done to remove the Magsafe cable.

    Also, you have to pull the cable up through, you can’t feed it down through the hole.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR - Contestar

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

17 personas más completaron esta guía.

Tobias Isakeit

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Unbelievable amount of very detailed and careful work to replace a Thunderbolt cable which is attached on the inside to a standard Thunderbolt socket! Why not just have the socket on the back of the unit?????

Lewis Naylor - Contestar

You can actually use the socket on the back of the unit as an input if your octopus cable is dying, as long as you are connecting directly to a Thunderbolt 1 or 2 Mac. If you are using the Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter, you have to use the built-in cable.

Tim -

Nice one Tim! Saves me opening the screen! Thanks!

Marc Dubresson - Contestar

At the top of this guide for the Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable Replacement, it says that there are “No Parts Required” I beg to differ. I need this guide because I need to Replace my Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable because the connector at the computer end is sketchy and if touched causes the image to glitch and go out. I know its the cable because this issue is not present with any other display or projector I plug into the same port on my computer. So, I ask, do you have a reliable source for an Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Replacement Cable so I can use this guide and fix my monitor once and for all?

Stephen LeMay - Contestar

Answered my own question. http://a.co/d/bOlf4s0

Stephen LeMay -

Hi Stephen, You’re right, the wording is somewhat confusing. Of course you need a replacement part to replace something ;) This has been forwarded and we’ll hopefully change it soon to provide proper information. Thanks for the parts link; i’ll put this into the “parts” section for the time being.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hello, I desperately need help! I have followed the step by step instructions here & everything went perfectly! But now it won't turn on at all??? I have checked that I have plugged in every cable but still no response? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Nicholas hilton - Contestar

Nicholas, any luck with fixing your display? Same problem here. Replaced the all-in-one cable without incident. Reassembled, and now it won’t power on using different:

• macs

• plugged and unplugged

• from on already and starting up

• outlets

• power cords

Help.

About to start the process over, suspecting to find a disconnected cable.

Good luck, and thanks for any input.

 Chris Leeds

Independent Apple Specialist

Well Connected Life

Chris Leeds -

Also experience some hickups with different cables. No picture but charging, not charging but picture, slow recognition of display (~8 sec). There are different cables for the different display (size and year). Some cables may also be used and malfunctioning. Maybe connect to the seller and request a replacement to check.

Tobias Isakeit -

I use 2 thunderbolt displays with Mac Mini, daisy chaining the second one from the first display. I have been using these displays since 2011 and last month in a gap of 15 days both the cables started exhibiting unreliable connectivity. I ordered a pair of new cables and eventually after a month of waiting, I finally got them yesterday.

Opened display #1 using this guide (which is a life saver) and that roughly took me over an hour to tear it down. I additionally opened out each of the 3 speakers and brushed off the 8 years of dust accumulated on them. Blow cleaned the fan which had tons of dust caught inside.

This guide is quite well drafted with each step very illustratively put together. Not just my display is back in action, but also the audio volume of the display has doubled up :) I also cleaned off the soot developed behind the front glass and now its like a entire refreshed display.

Kudos to the author for this article!

Will work on the display #2 sometime soon.

Akash Khairate - Contestar

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