Introducción
Reemplazar la CPU en tu Mac Pro 2009-2012 es una excelente manera de agregar rendimiento y prolongar la vida útil de tu Mac Pro. Si tienes un modelo 2009 como el que tengo en la guía, deberás asegurarte de update the firmware primero para que puedas usar una variedad más amplia de actualizaciones de CPU, que no solo son más rápidas sino también más eficiente y puede permitir que tu RAM funcione más rápidamente también.
Puede encontrar una lista de actualizaciones de CPU compatibles en este [enlace|https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/mac...|Hilo de MacRumors].
Qué necesitas
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Si bien quitar la RAM no es del todo necesario, es una buena idea para no dañar ninguno de sus chips mientras tratas con el disipador de calor.
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Abre las pestañas del costado y retira cada chip individualmente.
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Tanto las lengüetas como las varillas pueden estar rígidas; se paciente y ten cuidado.
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Coloca tu llave en uno de los orificios para tornillos y comienza a desatornillar cada perno.
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IMPORTANTE: debes desatornillar cada tornillo por igual para quitar el disipador de calor verticalmente y no en ángulo. Podrías dañar accidentalmente muchos de los componentes debajo del disipador de calor si no tienes cuidado.
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Puede ser útil contar varias vueltas, ya que te asegurarás de aplicar una presión uniforme al retirar el disipador de calor.
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Marqué una línea en un lado del mango de mi llave hexagonal para poder seguir más fácilmente el recuento de revoluciones.
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Me tomó alrededor de 17 vueltas en cada tornillo para desconectarlo por completo, pero su cuenta puede variar.
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Los tornillos están cautivos del disipador de calor, así que no te preocupes por quitarlos del bloque.
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Deberías escuchar un clic cuando el tornillo salta del zócalo, ya que los tornillos están accionados por resorte.
Some models will have all Torx bolts (probably a T-15) or a mix of Torx and hex holding down the heatsink.
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Tenga cuidado de sacar el disipador de calor de la bandeja, ya que hay un conector de ventilador a la derecha de la CPU y deberás tener cuidado de no doblarlo.
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El conector se ve en azul en la primera imagen.
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Verás la pasta térmica antigua tanto en la CPU como en el disipador térmico; quitaremos la pasta antigua antes de volver a montar la bandeja.
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Este también es un buen momento para desempolvar la bandeja si tienes una lata de aire comprimido. ¡Me sorprendió la cantidad de polvo tenía solo en mi disipador de calor!
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Con un paño que no suelte pelusa (como un filtro de café) y alcohol isopropílico de alto porcentaje, limpia la parte inferior de la almohadilla térmica en el disipador de calor. Debe tener un brillo brillante una vez que hayas terminado.
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Ten cuidado de no golpear el sensor térmico (se muestra en rojo)
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También puedes limpiar la pasta del procesador anterior si planeas conservarlo; solo ten mucho cuidado de no dañar la parte inferior de la CPU donde están los contactos.
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Levanta con cuidado el brazo del costado del procesador y levántalo para liberar el mecanismo de la bandeja.
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Retira el procesador viejo con cuidado por los bordes (tenía puesto un par de guantes de látex solo como precaución adicional)
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Vuelve a colocar el nuevo procesador, teniendo cuidado de alinear las muescas, que deben ir hacia la bisagra de la cubierta de la CPU. Las flechas rosadas en la segunda imagen muestran la ubicación de las muescas.
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Baja con cuidado la cubierta y vuelve a colocar el brazo. Sentirás un poco de tensión en el resorte, pero debería bajar con relativa facilidad.
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Deberás volver a aplicar pasta térmica al nuevo procesador. Hay muchas escuelas de pensamiento sobre la mejor manera de hacer esto, pero prefiero colocar un punto del tamaño de un guisante en el medio de la CPU y dejar que el disipador de calor lo extienda por mí.
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Vuelve a colocar con cuidado el disipador de calor en la parte superior del procesador, asegurándote de que el conector del ventilador esté correctamente conectado.
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Comienza a atornillar los pernos nuevamente. Querrás apretar en el mismo patrón de ida y vuelta para aplicar la misma presión en todo el procesador.
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¡NO APRIETES DEMASIADO! Es muy importante prestar atención al par de apriete de los tornillos. Una vez que un tornillo ya no quiera apretarse con facilidad, retrocede.
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Vuelve a colocar la RAM y asegúrate de asentar cada palo firmemente en su ranura
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Vuelve colocar la bandeja en tu Mac Pro y enciéndelo! Si has hecho todo correctamente, deberías ver tu nuevo procesador en la ventana Acerca de este Mac.
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Si experimentas ventiladores con altas RPM, usa una herramienta como iStat Menus para verificar las temperaturas térmicas y los sensores. Es posible que debas restablecer el PRAM o volver a colocar el disipador de calor. No tuve problemas para arrancar con el mío, pero tu kilometraje puede variar.
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18 comentarios
Mar 31, 2018
Maybe you can help. I did this upgrade on MacPro 4, 1-Did the firmware upgrade to 5,1. Complete the hardware install as listed above with 3.33 ghz processor. Started it up and only one of the Ram in working. Red LEDS on next to the back 3 ram slots. Switched around the Ram (although they are all the same for both the 4,1 & 5,1 models) to no avail. So I have only the #1 Ram slot working. Did the Pram reset a number of times. Did I screw up the board plane? Is that possible? I was extremely careful. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Does it still boot to macOS like normal, minus those three slots? Which CPU did you upgrade it to? I would ask in the Answers forum, as you’ll likely get more responses there.
I just put an X5690 (6x3.46GHz) in my single-processor 2009 Mac Pro after updating the firmware. It was super easy and everything seems to be working great. Just wanted to say thanks for this helpful guide!
Hi, I’m trying to do the same thing but after I put everything back up and turn it on, the mac chimes, then shows the apple logo and the loading bar, which only goes up halfway before restarting, in a loop. Did you have by chance similar symptoms?
Steve -
I stick to the Hansen stand up racks for regular sockets and all specialties are single rail / racks / trays that match that set. Mostly the mechanics time saver plastic one with the magnetic bottom strip (now called Magna Caddy). The latest few specialty sets from SO came in nice magnetic trays, which are nice and the magnet is strong, but the base is wide / eats up floor space in the drawer.I did recently pick up one those SO locking / slider type trays with all 3 drive sizes, but haven't been able to organize it to be usable. Having all 3 sizes, but only so many in each row, is either too little of this or too much of that - might be better if the whole tray where one drive size....but maybe just too much hassle.....
WOW! Are there instructions like this for a 2006 Mac Pro 1,1 anywhere??
Thanks for the post!! I just upgraded my Mac Pro 2009 ( a.k.a MacPro4,1) with X5680.
The most incredible $40 upgrade to a computer ever. 12 Threads and now Docker runs with VT-x unrestricted mode.
With NVMe ssd that kicks at 1300MB/s, god knows how many more years of service life this beast has.
However, for the benefit of whomever left to try adding to this 10 years old machine,
may I point out that the screws are DEFINITELY NOT 3mm HEX like everyone says.
It is “Torx T15”.
You may get lucky but if you are unlucky like me, you’ll be left with ONE SCREW stuck in there you can’t turn with 3mm hex.
HAVE T15 ready before you start.
Also, DON’T USE anything with such big handle like the original poster. User something with shorter spin handle to avoid accidentally over tightening it.
Thanks. I’ll be enjoying this Mac Pro that was literary destined for a dustbin once in our office, for years to come.
I had the same memory problem. I removed all the sticks. Blew compressed air in the slots. Some dust bunnies somehow got in even though I was careful in my original memory stick install. Rebooted and all memory registered. Bottom line is even a little dust in the memory slot can prevent all of them from registering. Also recommend cleaning all contact points of the memory sticks with denatured alcohol and cotton swab. Make sure you are and remain grounded whenever working with memory. VERY important.
Can anyone confirm if it is 3mm Hex or Torx T15? It is very important as I’m considering doing the upgrade. Thank you in advance!
I think it must depend — I mine today and it was in fact a 3mm hex but based on some of the emphatic comments above, I suspect Apple changed at some point. If you simply shut the computer down and remove the CPU/Memory daughter card, you should be able to shine a light in the side of the heatsink and see the screw head.
Fantastic set of instructions, very clear showing all possible problems and how to avoid them. Worked a treat. Only difference for me was the number of rotations when unscrewing and reattaching the heat sink. I was counting full rotations of the Allen key and it was nine on my Mac Pro 4,1. But like this guide says, when you feel the resistance on the screw when tightening……stop! Many thanks.
PART ONE
Following these instructions I flashed my 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 - 2.66 Quad-core core to 5,1 - then swapped the CPU to a 3.46 6 core.SUCCESS!
Before attempting the CPU replacement read up on static electricity discharge - I simply grounded myself by touching the computer’s metal case several times during the installation with the computer plugged into a socket BUT with the power OFF!
Before removing the heatsink I made a diagram of the screw pattern : 0 (single extreme LHS); 1 (Upper LHS); 2 (Upper RHS); 3(Lower LHS) and
4 (Lower RHS) so I would not forget how many turns and in the correct sequence being 0, 1, 4, 2, 3.
In my case sequence One was 5 turns each, then Sequence Two was around 4 turns.(Nine turns in all per screw.)
The screws have a small ‘give’ when finally undone.
PART TWO
The heatsink lifted off easily - I was suprised how light it felt (looks heavier).
First clean the heatsink’s thermal plate as directed but do the CPU swap out as quickly as you can to prevent socket contamination.
Gently reseat the heatsink and repeat in reverse the sequence of the tightening of the screws to a soft hand tighten.
Leave the side cover off and boot up your MacPro - keep an eye out for continual flashing red LED’s on the LHS of the heatsink’ board
- an indication of thermal overload. No LED’s flashing means a successful installation.
Just upgraded my Mac Pro 2012 3.2 GHz, four cores to a 3.46 GHz, six cores. Very good improvement: Geekbench 5 average score went from 2255 to 3316, with better results in every single performance. It even runs cooler than the original one: maybe the new thermal paste helps.
Couldn’t be happier, thanks for the guide :-)
I have a 2009 Mac Pro flashed to 5,1. I upgraded my single W3250 with a X5690 off of ebay. The issue that came up is this: on powering on it chimes, shows the apple logo loading screen, goes up about halfway the progress bar and then restarts. I already reseated CPU and RAM (tried both a set of 24 GB @1333 and the original 6 GB 1066 ecc), reset the NVRAM (multiple times), tried with both the original Radeon HD4870 and my Radeon rx560, tried recovery mode and booting from a Catalina installer, then downgraded to Mojave and tried with that installer; i also tried removing the hdd, ssd, and expansion cards, leaving in only the absolute necessary fot it to boot at least in recovery mode. It shouldn't be a compatibility problem, right? The machine worked perfectly before. It could really be a faulty processor at this point, but it seems weird to me judging by the symptoms.
Have come to this late in the day, but notice that for an early 2009 cMP the machine featured already has lidded CPUs installed. Early 2009 models were 4,1s which had custom Apple-specific de-lidded CPUs factory installed. Replacing original de-lidded CPUs with lidded x56xx CPUs (like the ones shown here) requires important modifications, otherwise trouble will ensue. So please take care to identify properly before proceeding. Firmware upgrading a 4,1 to a 5,1 does not get around this. More info here: https://everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_p...
this is a good point- it's been a while since I looked at the details, but from what I remember it was only the dual processor 2009 models that had the delidded CPUs. The single processor was just a normal Xeon, and I believe the 2010/2012 model used standard Xeons as well. But yes, that's a good point for the dual models.
