This photo frame is a $20-$30 device my brother bought on eBay for my mom. Sadly, it short lived. I thought I would tear it down. The connector that connects the button assembly to the logic board was damaged by me, and so I gorilla glued it. I probably should point out it was the plug part of the wire that was damaged and not the plastic connector on the logic board its self. The display seems very lose res. Also, even though this page says this is a teardown, AND not for repair, I right all my teardowns to be repair guides for the entire device. Just go as far as you need to go.

Este desmontaje no es una guía de reparación. Para reparar tu SmartParts SP800WS Digital Photo Frame, utiliza nuestros manuales de servicio .

  1. He displayed our family photos with beauty
    • He displayed our family photos with beauty

    • He had a slightly lower es display than his friends, but was well respected

    • RIP SP800W. Why did you have such a short lifespan?

    Cita de nicksmacandpchelp:

    its a ;ow cost unit

    You mean low cost unit? It was dirt cheap for what it does. Sadly, I can't fix the problem. I will keep it, because I enjoy taking things apart in my spare time. i don't want any 6 year old kid in Africa or china "recycling" this crap.

    Nicholas Ouimet - Contestar

    I bought this for my boss 2 years ago and Sony tells me there is an LCD error. I have a cheaper no name unit and mine works fine -- so much for Sony!

    Paula - Contestar

  2. Remove the peg screws holding the electronic photo unit to the display.
    • Remove the peg screws holding the electronic photo unit to the display.

    • Once the screws are removed the electronic display unit simply lifts right out.

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    • The screws surrounded by the blue and red circles must be removed.

    • Sadly the one by the memory card slow has been lost

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    • The connector in the orange box provides the display's backlighting power.

    • The Y shaped ribbon connectors in the red box feed the display images.

    • With out the orange boxed connector, pictures would appear, but you would need a lamp to see them

    • With out the data connecors connected, they backlight would be on, and thats it. It would be all white.

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  3. Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    • The connector in the red box shows how the latch frees the cable. The brown latch must be slid towards the cable to free it.

    • The blue box shows a slightly crocked, but looked in cable.

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    • Remove the screws with a philips 00 screw drives, and remove the two metal brackets holding the LCD to the cheap black frame.

    • The lift the display from the plastic frame.

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    • Remove the speaker connectors from the logic board

    • To do this, pull on the wire. As dumb as it may sound, you MUST use the wire. Pulling on the brittle plastic will harm the speaker connecter (not logic board connector) As you can see, I did pull on the connector for the control board, and damaged it

    • I used gorilla glue to fix that.

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    • You should have

    • Logic board, speakers

    • rear case assembly, display (LCD panel)

    • plastic front display frame

    • wooded frame, peg screws

    • pane of glass

    • cardboard boarder

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    • The first photo shows what screws need to me removed

    • the second photo shows what happened when I pulled on the connector.

    • I should have pulled on the black wires instead.

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    • Remove the logic board, and the case and speakers remain.

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    • I googled Mlogic AML62130, and got nothing. But it's a good guess that the system IC is from China's AMLogic.

    • The AMLogic site is correct. US AMLogic SiteThats the US version.

    • It even shows a picture of the SOC on the link above. Same model.

    • Then they can edit this guide and let the world know what they are.

    Good teardown. Probably a very late comment since this is a 2010 teardown - the AMLogic part is AML6213D - the last character is a “D” not a “0”. You’ll get better google results with a AML6213D :)

    Utsav Ghosh - Contestar

    • So after reassembling the photo frame, it still appears dead.

    • Oh well. It was nice when it worked.

    • All these photos were taken on an Apple iPhone 3GS 16GB White. I used sun light for these pictures, no artificial light.

    • Please let me know if you fund any grammatical errors, or have suggestions... I want to know.

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Nicholas Ouimet

Miembro Desde 16/10/09

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