Introducción
Dificultad: Media
Desmontaje parcial de los auriculares inalámbricos con cancelación de ruido Bose QuietComfort 35.
Expone todas las placas de circuito y la batería.
No desmonta la banda para la cabeza, ni revela el acceso a los altavoces/controladores, ni desmonta los botones.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Hoy, mis auriculares Bose agotaron la batería aproximadamente a la mitad en solo aproximadamente 1 hora. Solía durar más de 15 horas. Era una señal de que la batería estaba a punto de agotarse.
-
Oficialmente, cuesta $259 + $100 de envío para que Bose reemplace la batería. Estos auriculares cuestan $300. Ridículo. No pude encontrar ninguna batería para esto en línea y el servicio de atención al cliente dijo que la batería no es reemplazable por el usuario.
-
Esta guía muestra el desmontaje hasta la batería.
-
Herramientas necesarias: Destornillador Phillips de hoja delgada, espátula de plástico o madera cuando manipules la batería, destornillador pequeño de hoja plana. Los micro destornilladores funcionarán bien.
-
-
-
Vamos a empezar con el lado derecho.
-
Mete tu dedo detrás del manguito de espuma y tira hacia arriba para desabrocharlo.
-
Retira la cubierta de espuma de los auriculares para revelar los tornillos y un compartimento.
-
-
-
Hay 3 tornillos que sujetan la cubierta metálica exterior.
-
Esto revela la placa de circuito. Ten cuidado de no perder la goma de alrededor del micrófono.
-
Asegúrate de no perder el interruptor de encendido.
-
Seguridad del cable plano: No lo cortes de lado a lado. No lo retuerzas. Si lo desconectas, desconéctelo utilizando una herramienta de palanca en el conector, ¡nunca tirando del cable!
-
ESTO ES OPCIONAL. Solo haz esto si fuera necesario: Si vas a quitar el cable plano, una vez que este cable esté desconectado, puedes tirar suavemente hacia arriba (¡sin doblarlo demasiado!) para separar el adhesivo de la cámara del altavoz.
-
La tercera imagen muestra como hacer palanca hacia arriba en el borde del conector de cinta. Hay algo de pegamento que hay que apartar. Es débil, por lo que probablemente puedas simplemente levantar el conector de cinta.
Removing ribbon cable for exploration purposes caused me trouble down the road. I had not firmly reseated it when putting back together so the buttons and lights were dead. And now the buttons feel like they are only working intermittantly? Not sure if its my Mac preventing the buttons from working actually. Perhaps the glue securing the connector was there to prevent it coming loose (which might have happened at this point).
How big screwdriver?
-
-
-
Para quitar las placas de circuito, puedes quitar los 4 tornillos cortos como se muestra.
-
Para el tablero superior, puedes hacer palanca alrededor de los bordes (usa una herramienta de plástico o madera). Ten en cuenta que hay un conector en la parte posterior que se conecta a una placa dentro del compartimento del otro lado.
-
La tabla inferior recuerdo que estaba suelta. Ten cuidado de no dañar el otro conector de cinta (amarillo) conectado a él.
-
-
-
-
En el otro lado, hay un compartimento con una tapa pegada. El pegamento no es terriblemente fuerte. Puedes insertar un destornillador delgado en la muesca que se muestra para abrirlo.
-
Una vez abierto, lo más probable es que el pegamento no se vuelva a sellar correctamente.
-
Dentro hay una placa de circuito y otro micrófono, y el cable al otro lado.
-
Tuve algunos problemas para abrir esto cuando traté de abrirlo desde el otro lado usando el orificio del otro lado para la diadema.
What's that white part…I accidentally push it and it's bent down a little bit…is it gonna be a problem?…please help me
-
-
-
Moviéndote hacia el lado izquierdo, retira la cubierta y las piezas de espuma.
-
Este lado tiene solo 2 tornillos que sujetan la cubierta frontal.
-
Aquí está el circuito para el lado izquierdo.
-
-
-
Por el otro lado la batería va soldada a la placa.
-
Está marcado con T (temperatura), B- y B+.
-
La batería es una Synergy AHB110520CPS. Una búsqueda online no encontró nada. Me pregunto si esta es una batería patentada que solo se vende a Bose, o si ya está obsoleta (1,5 años).
-
Las especificaciones de la batería son 495mAh 3.7V, 4.2V max (creo).
-
Es una batería híbrida avanzada, que es una tecnología de batería muy compacta fabricada por Synergy Taiwan.
Can you tell physical dimensions of the battery?
+1 on that :)
Alex -
You state that the battery is 1.5 yrs old. When I had a problem with my 2.5 year old QC35 headphones, I took them into the Bose store, described the issue, and the manager said, ‘That shouldn’t have happened’, and swapped my cans for a new set. Very simple and no cost to me. Not sure where the earlier-mentioned repair price of $259 + $100 would come into this. My experience was only of good customer service.
That is what it shows on the website. I guess when you go to a store and have that in face interaction, they are a lot nicer.
-
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
¡ Francisco Javier Saiz Esteban nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
31 comentarios
I don’t have it with me right now but I think its 1.75” x 0.4” x 0.3” (inches). I couldn’t actually find a battery of the same shape anyways. I am going to try this battery: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-7V-500-mAh-Po... and hope that it fits somehow.
Piece of cake! NOT! Thank you Junrei for your detailed breakdown of the QuiteComfort 35. Hopefully, by the time my lithuim battery wears out there will be a replacement battery, but I’m afraid I may not get it back together again successfully. Normally, if something no longer works I’ll dive in and see if I can fix it - nothing to lose. But, if - and when - a replacement battery is available the battery may cost too much to risk an unsuccessful reassembly.
If anybody has success with finding a suitable battery replacement model please point to the battery model number.
It seems Bose does not want people to replace the battery and customers of Bose should just buy the newest Bose headphones. I don’t want to throw my headphone away, I just want a new battery….
@No Name I did replace mine with this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-7V-500-mAh-Po... . I put mine behind the ear flap like so: https://imgur.com/m7fLX6F . The ear felt holds it in.
So far I do not know if it will charge, but it works. It did not overheat on the charger. Didn’t even get warm. Also my lights and volume/play controls/mic are not working. I did disconnect one of the ribbon connectors and maybe i messed up putting it back together. Otherwise it works fine.
Update: I have been using the replacement battery and charging it/discharging it just fine. It lasts a long time too. The reported battery level goes up and down just like the old one used to. Perfectly replaced.
Also I opened it up again and one of the ribbon cables I messed with was not really connected. I plugged it in and i got LIGHTS and volume controls (initially volume controls but its being flaky with me right now). Microphone still doesnt seem to work but it’s plugged in. I dunno why.
Junrei -
Hi Junrei, very good repair efforts and tips! I have a question. Does the replacement battery already has its own thermistor in the package or should it need to be placed near an existing thermistor where the old battery was once was? Thanks.
Ray
roju1645 -
re: battery resistance
True to some extend. There are several regions for battery charging:
preconditioning: the battery is too deeply discharged, it will be trickle charged at first
constant current: battery is charged with a constant current until fixed voltage is achieved (e.g. 4.2V) - here the battery resistance makes a big difference
constant voltage: battery is charged with constant voltage - this is slower and now has to make up for the lesser charge from previous process
trickle,maintain: maintenance
However, as you draw current from the battery (for the speakers), the voltage at the internal circuits will also drop due to I*R. Therefore, it looks as if the battery is much more discharged. In effect you cannot get below a certain internal voltage anymore. Due to the nonlinear nature of the Q/V curve, this can mean quite a lot of charge becomes inaccessible. Battery is effectively dead.
@andregunther i’m not sure what you mean. My original question was more or less “can i use any replacement battery regardless of internal resistance?” I didnt mean I was going to use an old battery.
Update: I have been using the replacement battery and charging it/discharging it just fine. It lasts a long time too. The reported battery level goes up and down just like the old one used to. Perfectly replaced.
Also I opened it up again and one of the ribbon cables I messed with was not really connected. I plugged it in and i got LIGHTS and volume controls (initially volume controls but its being flaky with me right now). Microphone still doesnt seem to work but it’s plugged in. I dunno why.
Hello Junrei,
I was wondering if the battery https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-7V-500-mAh-Po... holds up to 20 hours, same as the Synergy AHB110520CPS original Bose Q35 battery? How is ANC operability affected by it?
I had the same issue with Synergy AHB110520CPS battery, and I went to a local computer and appliance shop if it could be fixed. An IT expert replaced the battery with some other type of battery (I do not even know the type of battery replaced), so here is the outcome: ANC is terrible, about 50% of the previous capacity, I can hear the noise around and the airplane the whine of the engine is no longer properly isolated. The battery draines in 4-5 hours approximately, the charging time is about 25-30 minutes.
Sounds like the wrong battery. Mine lasts a really long time. I haven’t measured but it seems to last 2-3 8hr work days with some use interruptions. The ANC works still but I haven’t noticed anything different about it tbh. My office isn’t terribly noisy to begin with (and the ANC is only good for background noises like clicks and fans and such, not voices).
It sounds like your battery is no good to begin with. That performance is terrible. Go for a 3.7V max 4.2V, and 500mAh or more (more mAh more capacity).
Maybe the voltage was wrong on the battery? I would expect things to not work well under-voltage. Usually they dont work at all. Maybe it was an old battery or lower capacity battery?
Junrei -
@Junrei I think a better option would be the 10440 li-ion battery. It’s about the same size as the original, usually about 300-400mah so not too big of a difference. I wouldn’t feel too safe with your battery placement right next to your ear. Lipo batteries pack a punch, and can do some real damage to you. The 10440 will fit into the original compartment (I think. Have yet to try.) and will be a little more shielded, should something go wrong.
Only problem is that there’s no temp sensor on those batteries. I thought those batteries only sizzle a little bit and leak fumes… but I see that they explode when overcharged … this isnt good.
Can anyone find a similar battery that will fit in the original compartment?
Junrei -
Risk is still lower because I’m not charging them when I’m wearing them. I would think damage causing an internal short would eventually cause overheating tho… and possibly the same result.
Junrei -
I just installed the 10440 batteries 5 minutes ago and it fit perfectly. You are correct, they don’t have a temperature sensor, I bought a pack of 10k thermistors and I just glued it to the side of the battery with thermal paste and heat shrink on top. You could also just put a 10k resistor from ground to temp, but you’d lose the temperature sensing.
Definitely look into the 10440’s if you are considering changing at a later time, they’re relatively cheap and are the same size as the original batteries. Thermistors and thermal paste is also dirt cheap. Only downside to the 10440s is that you need to solder the wires directly to the batteries and that requires a decent soldering iron.
Sounds good Dirt. I’d keep it in a metal pot or other fireproof location for a few days and monitor the temperature every so often when charging. I think without the thermsistor youre removing a safety protection mechanism. When overcharged these batteries explode.
Mine does not even get hot after any time charging so I feel I am safe. Also the battery percentage goes up and down (even to 100%) just like it’s supposed to.
Junrei -
The Partial Teardown instructions show taking both the right and left sides of the phones apart. However, since the battery is in the left side, it it really necessary to take the right side apart if all I need to do is replace the battery?
You are correct. Only take apart the side that has the battery - the left. This guide was meant to be a teardown guide, not just battery.
Junrei -
Just checked the original battery and it seems to be just a 10440 battery with connectors at the top.
Not sure if you got notifications for the reply I left on my previous comment, so I’ll just leave a comment here.
Also thanks for the guide. Saved me a lot of time searching for the battery compartment.
Great knowledge source here! Thanks Junrei, Dirt.
Battery replacement video available.
Is there room to somehow add another battery on the right hand side and wire it in parallel with the left side battery to increase capacity? Having 800mah would be pretty cool. I think if mine ever craps out in me I'll look at mounting two batteries externally on the arms that lead up to the sliding part of the head band and then shrink wrapping them in place with black shrink wrap.
Can I see a photo of the silicon chipset?
Has anyone tried this replacement battery from Ali?
It’s 14$ now+ shipment. So not cheap, but still better than a new pair..
Wanted to know what DAC they used… Pretty disappointed no ICs are showcased, isn’t that the whole point of these teardowns?
What size screws (3 on right side, step 3) are used to secure the metal cover and boards?
#00 Phillips
Hi, nice explanation. I was trying to replace the internal signal cable, the 12-wire shielded one from left to the right ear but cannot find any stock where such replacement parts are available. Do you maybe know any?
Thanks,
Alex.
not kidding about the naked part: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/...
I first learned of this from the megatokyo web comic :D
Junrei - Contestar
ESD probably killed the microphone board of my headphones. So hence the warning.
Junrei - Contestar