Introducción
The Anova Precision cooker is a great product and has a fantastic customer service and returns policy. However, if you're not interested to wait for the shipping of a replacement machine for a blown fuse, here's a quick teardown on how to find it and trouble shoot it.
My issue was something totally different and I wasn't able to locate it. Nevertheless, I was fully replaced by Anova so Kudos to the customer service team. I was eventually asked to destroy the faulty machine so here are the photos and experiences of me destroying my machine.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Grab hold of the upper part of the cooker and the stainless steel skirt
-
Rotate the skirt until it loosens from the slots and pull it off
-
You'll be left with the heating element, the thermometers and the mixing arm visible
-
-
-
Locate the two screws that hold the case together. Unscrew them (philips 1)
-
Using relatively much force, insert two fingers beneath the casing and pull it off from the counter part. It is held in place by few plastic clips that will yield with force without breaking (in my case, where I was destroying it)
-
The clips are located relatively close to the upper edge of the casing, if you are interested in shimmying them with a palette knife etc.
-
You are left with the top most cover off, the power cord holding it still in place
-
-
-
-
The plastic locking tabs can be popped open using a 'spud' tool inserted at the fat part of the housing and then slid toward the top of the unit. You can see the tab at the very left of the screen. Green 'spud' tool in the background
-
-
-
Remove the control unit by unscrewing the two screws that hold it in place
-
You may then remove the bottom casing as well if interested
-
Notice to remove the control cable before violently showing the control unit aside
-
The fuse is clearly visible next to the power cord. To change it, you need to unsolder it and solder a new one in place
Could you tell what the amp rating on the fuse was? Using 120 v model here.
-
-
-
The temperature control adjuster can be removed by the two flushed screws
-
To remove the control cable, lift the small plastic shimmer an then pull out the cable
-
-
-
The two screws in the bottom of the unit secure the motor in place. removing them loosens the motor. Also remove the propeller from the axel and you can list the engine off
-
When reassembling, note the notch in the circuit board needs to go to the dedicated hole in the casing.
-
39 comentarios
I think the grey bezel around the display is clipped with plastic clips. I tried to pry it open with a palette knife but didint mange to do it.
My unit has a power fuse located right under the power cord plug at the back of the unit. It unclips and slides out for easy replacement. I the fuse which you show in your photos inside the unit a different fuse than the one I am referring, perhaps an older model. I am curretly experiencing a problem with my unit that I would like very much to resolve. As I'm located in Brazil, it is virtually impossible to get service for my unit. Thaty and the fact that I bought the unit used from a friend compounds the issue. It was however, working perfectly until yesterday when I noticed that the unit is not heating the water. The unit runs and lights up and everything appears to be working fine, but the water is not heating. I have tried cleaning the insides with vinegar and I have tried putting heated water to see if the thermometer is reading the temperature of the water, which it is. After a few minutes however, the temperature begins to drop rather than heat up to my set temperature.
Does the circulation motor keep running when it stops heating?
Thaddeus -
I have this problem. I can’t heat the water. My circulator spins the whole time. Only problem is it doesn’t heat he water. The upper half of the unit gets hot not the lower.
philip -
I had my unit examined by a professional electronic repairmain and his verdict was that mine had fried the integrated circuit. The board still received current, but the control circuit did not do anything.
Thad: Can you provide details on how you tested the transistor in place?
I've got a blank screen when plugging mine in, but the fuse is good. Similar behavior?
I have a blank screen but the blue light on the wheel is on. Is this still a fuse issue? I have looked all over the net and can't find anything to tell how how to replace the fuse. Anova have nothing on their site about it. The Anova is less than a month old.
I have the same problem, struggling to find a solution
halo46 -
If your blue light is on, it's probably not the fuse.... Anova will probably replace it under warranty.
Thanks, Is the converse true………If my unit doesn’t light up, the fuse is likely the issue
My unit (Anova PC 1.0 BT) does not heat water, but the circulating system still work. The command pannel work, I set the temperature, the water circulates, but the Anova does not heat.
I disassemby the unit, but the fuse seems ti ne in good conditions (no burn glass, no broken filament.
What do you suggest? Change the fuse, or something else?
Thanks
Hi Lorenzo - do you know the specs for the internal glass fuse? My has blown and I’m not sure what replacement to get. Many thanks!
Hi,
I need to replace the plug. Can you be more specific on step 2 in terms of taking apart the unit and what you mean by pulling the two parts apart or shimmying something?
Thanks,
Andy
Hey,
There are few plastic hooks that hold the pieces together. You can open it by using force. Grab as good grip as you can from both halves and just pull. But as I mentioned, this may break the hooks. I didn't.
Another way to open the hooks is to insert a thin screwdriver, palette knife etc. to the seam of the two plastic pieces. The hooks are located relatively close to the top of the case, so push the palette knife into the casing through the seam to open the hooks.
I have an anova bluetoth from 2014, it was working fine, but now when I connect it, the device works fine, temperature meter runs ok, digital controls works fine (can change temperature and time, turn on Bluetooth), but when I play it begins to move water and the entire house energy shuts down, I tried to set the temperature at a lower temperature than the water, and when I play, the device works fine, so it seems, that the problem is when it begins to heat the water, I checked the fuse and other parts and can't see any visible damage. So I think the problem is the resistance (the part that heats the water), any idea to repair it? thanks in advance
Hi,
I'm expriencing aa similar problem like others mentiond - the device turnes on and circulating the water, but the water does not heat up.
In additon, the screen is flashing and I suspect the problem is that the motor and heating element starts and stops at the same rate the screen is flashing.
Any ideas?
I would like to change the motor, may I know where I could buy ?
anyone replace the relay? i have a unit that 'works' but only once you give it a tap on the side of the body. however, i used it last night for a 24hr session and when I woke up in the AM, the system was off and the water cold. obviously not reliable. i suspect that that relay is at fault since when it does power on, i can hear the relay clicking.
doug
I had mine replaced but as I'm in Aus was also told to destroy the broken one. Im keen to see if it's fixable though. It heats up and circulator is working, but the temp jumps around all over the place like crazy. Any ideas? Haven't cracked it open as yet.
I have an older 1st gen unit and have LOVED it but now having problems with the unit turning off because of "low water" (which is not the case) water level is perfect. I really want to repair this unit as I have heard that the new WIFi and blue tooth units are horrible and unreliable. Can you help?
Lisa
Remove the stainless steel cylindrical cover and scrub down all of the stainless steel sensors with steel wool, magic eraser, scotchbrite scouring pad, or some other light abrasive scrubber.
The water sensor detects water by measuring the conductivity between two of the sensors. The sensors need to be clean in order for this to work.
If you are using it with RO or distilled water, add a pinch of salt to the heating water.
Thaddeus -
I brought an US model to use in Singapore. And I didn't realized that it is not an auto-converted unit. And the unit got damaged in the 240V. Is there any possible way to repair it? I don't want to waste an 100 USD unit. Please let me know if there is anything that I can try to fix it. thanks.
Great guide Heikki, thanks for it! In my case, the internal glass fuse is blown. Any idea what’s the specs so I can get a replacement one?
Cheers, Davi
Ha! With some forensic work to read from the blown fuse which involved a super macro lens on my iPhone and some corn flour :) , I managed to identify it: it’s a pigtail F10AL 250V glass fuse, one of the small ones (3.6mm x 10mm). Ordered now, can’t wait to try!
Mine got screen black out. The fan operates. Opened it but the fuse seems not having any problem. Clue?
After reading everything I could find online, my conclusion is that if the device does not function properly, you can clean the minerals off the submersible stainless steel parts without having to disassemble anything. As for the top (dry) half of the device, you can take it apart easily enough, but the only thing that can be fixed is a blown fuse. Everything else (motor, electronics, display) is unfixable. (Except for Thad, who can detect and replace a blown transistor.) So if it’s not the fuse or minerals on the submersible parts (and if it’s plugged into a working 110v receptacle), you should throw it away. Does anyone have a different view?
My unit completely died - nothing on the screen, no signs of life whatsoever. Tearing it apart and testing some voltages revealed that the AC-DC converter was not outputting any voltage, although the AC lines make it to the transformer of the AC-DC converter alright. No sure what on the AC-DC converter died - nothing looks damaged, diodes seem ok - need to do a closer investigation later. The converter is a board on board construction and I haven’t soldered the two boards apart yet. Also considering just replacing the converter, but can’t find a replacement online. Anyone know what voltage the AC-DC converter was supposed to output?
Fabulous article
I was expecting a blown fuse, but there was power to the circuit so I have to assume the integrated circuit is shot
Very disappointing as I have only used the unit a few times
Many thanks for the article, without it I would not of known where to start checking
John
My current temperature reads 0.0 and when the unit runs it just continues to heat the water regardless of set temperature. Anova response was great and I’m waiting on a replacement. Just like others I would hate to recycle the old one. I’ve stripped it down and by de-soldering the thermocouple, determined that it’s still ok. So it’s down to the circuitry somewhere, Any ideas out there ?
Hi Phil, i am having the same problem, but my device is out of warranty. How about yours?
Efu -
I have the same problem. It never stopped heating the water. Obviously it ruined a meal but I also burned my hand when touching the side of the pan that was holding the water. This is a safety hazard. I am surprised there is no automatic shutoff when the unit reaches a very high temperature.
It does have a safety feature. A second thermometer (the one strapped to the heating element) is wired to a circuit that holds the main relay on. The idea is that if the main controller or SSR fails, this device will turn off the main relay.
Thaddeus -
For those interested, my device had a 10 A, 250 V axial leaded fast blow glass fuse in the 10 mm x 3.2 mm size. Littelfuse make too many types to count.
