Repair guides and support for wireless and corded computer mice by Logitech.

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Solder Pads Detached During Removing Micro Switches? (Logitech G303)

First time soldering, i practiced on a few cheap mice and got the hang of desoldering and resoldering the micro switches pretty easily, however for whatever reason the solder simply wouldn't detach from the solder pads on my g303 i spend hours trying and eventually i decided to just try pulling them out little by little with pliers after heating up the remaining solder on the pcb, but it seems to have taken off a few of the solder pads (I believe that's what they're called) with it? Before i try messing with it some more i wanted to ask first what i should do, do i need to try and replace/improvise the solder pads in order to solder on the new switches? Or is there a work around? This is my first time doing this stuff so excuse me if any of my terminology is wrong, i will include some pictures of my pcb below.

https://imgur.com/a/1dExwyk

https://imgur.com/a/aaAMn9f

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Also the blueish discoloration in the first picture top left is just from the camera, it doesn't look like that in person.

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You have applied way too much heat on the pads. A few seconds is all they can take, 350 degrees Celsius max. This is a double sided print, so the switch leads are soldered all the way through the print. Thats pretty difficult to remove with good soldering skills, let alone as a beginner.

Best practice: use a desoldering iron, it sucks the solder out of the holes after heating it.

Next best practice: use flux and desoldering wick, if you're lucky all of the solder comes out.

HEAVILY Improvising: use a heat gun at 300 degrees Celsius and pull out he switch as soon as ALL OF THE THREE solder joints of the switch are fluid. Not too long though, you will melt some parts if you apply too much heat. Use aluminium foil to protect the rest of the print from excessive heat. Remember, this last method is a pretty desperate one, but i still remember what it's like to have no tools no money and no clue...

Since the damage is already done, find a way to repair the tracks on both sides of the print with thin wire. Carefully look where the tracks run to, and bypass it with a wire. The large ground connections are just star shaped so it's easier to solder them, large ground surfaces suck up all the heat during soldering. Scratching off the plastic coating untill you see the copper and resoldering it will do. No agressive flux please, the kind for mechenical soldering will destroy your print after time.

Good luck, it gets easier if you keep trying!

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@eelcok, hit all the right answers. The only thing I have to add is that desoldering irons are great - but expensive. A cheaper alternative is a solder sucker. They come in spring loaded (ex. https://www.amazon.com/LyonsBlue-Desolde...) and bulb (ex. https://www.amazon.com/American-Beauty-S...). I tend to prefer the spring loaded, but know they can generate static electricity (i.e. bane to ICs). Here is a good video showing the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z38WsZFm...

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You're absolutely right, they're very practical and affordable tools. It's very difficult to remove all the solder on a double sided print with via's though, that's why I recommended wick. A spring loaded pump is an excellent tool to buy as a beginner anyway!

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Thanks for the answers, a solder sucker is what i attempted to use and on the other cheaper pcb's (Very old mice) i practiced on i was able to desolder them with ease, however i guess since my logitech mouse was a different print i had issues using the same technique.

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Depending on just how old the "older mice" were, it may have been before the requirement to use lead free solder. Lead free solder was mandated in the mid-2000s in the US and sooner in Europe, IIRC (RoHS - Restriction of Hazardous Substances; see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restrictio...). Lead free solder has a higher melting temperature than regular tin-lead solder, so this might explain why the older mice were easier.

General rules, get up as much solder as you can with a solder wick. Then with any remaining solder, use the solder sucker. When you resolder, be sure to buy 60/40 tin-lead solder with a resin core - do NOT buy the lead-free stuff.

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