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Freezer is not circulating cold air?

Hey Team,

I have a Samsung Side by Side Fridge & Freezer (Model : SRS585HDIS)

About a week ago, I noticed that there was no ice being produced, and I thought it was due to the hot weather we've had of late, so I decreased the temperature of the Freezer to no avail.

It seems like the ice is not being produced because the freezer is not cold enough to freeze the ice. It seems like the freezer temperature is not getting colder, and I've tried a couple of things including resetting (on/off) & power freeze.

On further inspection, it seems like the bottom of the freezer is very cold (as it should be), but the top is significantly warmer - it's also where the Ice maker is, hence the water is not freezing.

From my research, I've learnt that the fridge side is cooled by air from the freezer side - and the fridge is at the right temperature, no issues at all.

Does that mean the circulation fan in the freezer is not working/might be frozen.

How can I test it or take it apart to check?

Or are there any steps I should take like defrosting the freezer to get the fan running again?

Any help will be appreciated :)

Update (12/23/2017)

Hey,

Appreciate the reply and sorry for the late reply!

When the fridge and freezer doors are closed, I can hear a whizzing noise (most likely the fan), and I'm pretty sure it's a noise I haven't hear before.

Also, the freezer cools but the cold air does not circulate - the bottom end of the freezer is working as expected and freezes items & ice cubes, but the top end is warm and not cold at all.

It seems like it's the circulation fan or something similar?

Any way to confirm/test that it's the fan?

Cheers!

Update (01/28/2018)

Hey Guys,

So I've finally got around to doing a bit of investigating.

It seems like the fan is running? (See link for photos).

But I'm definitely sure it has to do with the circulation inside the freezer, as the fridge has been working as per normal, whilst the freezer still hovers around the 15 degree mark and does not freeze anything.

From my research, the fan is responsible for circulating the air?

Could the fan not be running at the correct speed?

Link : https://imgur.com/a/dz5z2

(Last photo is a photo of the fan)

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Could your fridge have accidentally been set to demo mode?

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Hi @rajalot ,

Here is a link to the spare parts for your model fridge.

It shows that there are 3 fans for your fridge. One in each cabinet (fridge and freezer), to circulate the air and one outside the cabinets to cool the compressor and condenser coils.

I'd check the fan in the freezer cabinet to ensure that it is not iced up and that it is operating OK.

The reason why the freezer is cold at the bottom is that cold air falls down. (It is heavier than warm air). So while the evaporator is very cold (freezing cold in fact) there is no air being blown across it to cool the entire cabinet only the air surrounding the evaporator area.

Here is a link to the parts for the freezer section (or click on the exploded view1 pdf link in the page from the link above.

Here is a link to the freezer fan -Item 10-2 part #1692719 and case motor Item 10-4 part #1692689 both found on p.2 of the parts list.

Hopefully this is of some help.

Update (01/30/2018)

Hi @rajalot ,

You have shown pictures of the compressor fan. This cools the condenser coils which are "hot" from the heat extracted from the fridge. (you could vacuum away all the dust, the cooling coils will appreciate it!)

The evaporator fan is inside the freezer cabinet behind a panel. This fan drags air over the "freezing cold" evaporator unit causing cold air to circulate throughout the freezer. Be careful, your fingers can literally stick to the evaporator unit if you touch it. It is freezing cold (unless the fridge is in the defrost cycle when it warms up (because no refrigerant is passing through it) to allow the ice build up to melt away -i.e. defrost)

You need to remove the back panel (from the inside of the cabinet) and check out the fan there.

As I said above check out "exploded view 1" in the link to see how the evaporator fan sits behind the panel in the freezer cabinet.

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@jayeff

You're a bloody legend! Your replies are easy to follow and your comments explain everything so well.

Just thought I'd let you know - shall follow up the steps above and report back soon :)

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Hi @rajalot

Check some things, is the compressor running?

e.g. like hearing motor / fan running ?

check for any possible clogs also.

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Hey,

Appreciate the reply and sorry for the late reply!

When the fridge and freezer doors are closed, I can hear a whizzing noise (most likely the fan), and I'm pretty sure it's a noise I haven't hear before.

Also, the freezer cools but the cold air does not circulate - the bottom end of the freezer is working as expected and freezes items & ice cubes, but the top end is warm and not cold at all.

It seems like it's the circulation fan or something similar?

Any way to confirm/test that it's the fan?

Cheers!

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Hi @Rose Swift,

You have not quoted a full model number, so I can't help more fully, but if you can hear a "whirring" sound in the freezer compartment but there is no air movement it may be that the evaporator fan blades have come adrift from the evaporator fan motor shaft, so that the motor turns (and whirs) but not the blade.

Frost build up is normal as warmer air enters the freezer when the door is opened and the moisture in the warmer air ‘freezes” on the colder interior sides of the compartment.

That is why most refrigerators these days have auto defrost . This occurs once every 8-12 hours (depending on maker). The compressor is stopped, the fans are stopped (you don’t want to blow cold air out unnecessarily when the doors are opened) and the evaporator defrost heater is turned on. The auto defrost lasts for about 20-30 minutes and then the compressor and fans start up again to drive temps back to the required settings.

Is there a freezer door switch that you can manually operate simulating that the door is closed to verify that there is no air flow in the freezer? The fan is turned off when a door is opened. Apologies if you have already done this.

Check that the evaporator fan is OK.

If you search online for (insert full model number) parts you should get results for suppliers which show exploded parts diagrams of all the parts so that you can see where the fan is situated behind a panel.

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14 comentarios:

Hello. Thank you for the response. It is a GE PROFILE Arctica PSS27SHNABS. There is no air circulation when I manually push the freezer door switch.

The whirring/growling sound (for lack of a better way to describe it) is constant when the doors are closed, stops when doors are opened and will start up upon leaving a door open for a minute or so. The separate fan in the refrigerator’s “custom cool" drawer does power up and blows just fine when that feature is utilized & the condenser fan is also functioning at the rear, underside of the fridge.

I suspected that the evap fan/motor could be the issue. Thank you for the suggestion…It makes sense that it could be just the fan blades vs. the motor. Accessing the evaporator fan even for visual inspection seems to be a bit more involved on this unit. Doable, but just more of a pain.

Do you happen to have any other suggestions for diagnosing without disassembling? The fridge does get to 37F but the freezer not below 10F & both lose some temp when the doors are opened & closed. A light frost begins to develop on the interior freezer back panel.

Thanks!!

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Hi @ Rose Swift,

Don't know your particular model but the evaporator fan starting up after a while with the door open may be a feature to try and maintain the desired temperature as it will be going up with the door open. A lot of other makes either give an alarm after a few minutes to warn to close the door or don't turn on the fan at all again until the door is closed and hope that the user remembers to close the door.

It may be understandable that the fridge temp is OK given that the freezer is at 10F. Normally the freezer should be at 0F and the damper unit controls the airflow into the fridge from the freezer to get the desired fridge temp. So the freezer being at 10F may still allow the fridge to be at 37F if the doors weren't opened too often. It may mean that the damper stays open for longer than it would if the freezer were at 0F with the fan operating.

As I said earlier a light frost could be because of warmer (humid maybe) air entering when the door is opened. Admittedly without the fan distributing the cold air around the compartment the frost may occur more quickly at the coldest place which would be the closest point to or on the evaporator unit, (10F is still well below freezing point).

I think that you have already done the diagnosing ;-)

There is no airflow in the freezer with the compressor running and the door(s) closed or simulated closed and you can hear the sound of a motor that stops when the door is opened and starts again when it is closed. Exactly what a evaporator fan is supposed to do.

You may just have to bite the bullet and remove the panel to get a look at the fan.

The parts diagram for your model show that the evaporator fan blade - part #613 - click on Freezer Section Parts diagram is separate to the fan motor so hopefully it may just have come loose from the shaft.

Good luck with the repair.

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Hello, I bit the bullet & disassembled. Unfortunately, the evaporator fan blade was attached as it should be & did turn freely with a small bit of resistance. The main thing I noticed out of the ordinary upon visual inspection is that screws/ brackets 611 and 612, which hold the evap fan motor, are EXTREMELY rusted. As is the ground wire sandwiched between them.

Soaking with some WD40 currently, as it is impossible to even get the screws to budge should I need to troubleshoot further. What should I check from here? & would the rust be a potential factor?

Update:

Just finally got the rusted brackets unscrewed.. I had read about the grommets being a potential factor, as well. They look to be ok on visual inspection. How would I know if they too, are an issue?

Since I “hear" a possible fan motor sound when the doors are closed…does that mean a new motor would likely not be necessary or help?

Not sure how to move forward from here.

Thanks again!!

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Hi @ Rose Swift,

With the compressor running, did you actually see the fan turning by holding the door switch closed or did you turn it manually just to see if it did?

Strange that there is no airflow felt from the vents when the fan is running then

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Do you mean after disassembling? Much of the interior freezer had to be removed from this model to even get access/visual of the evaporator fan… Didn't know if it was ok to plug the unit in to see if the fan would run… or if too many materials/integrated electrical components (icemaker, lighting, etc.) had been removed to do that?

What should I try next?

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Most Domestic refers are single evaporator systems... this means all cooling occurring in the fresh food compartment occurs because of the heat exchange occurring in the freezer (due to evaporator heat absorption). Your refer use a dual evaporator, single compressor system. each compartment cools individually. through not at the same time. Most Ice maker start their harvest cycle when their mold T-stat reaches approx. 10dgs f. If the refer is in a thermos hold or defrost state the fans will not be operating. Generally the evap and condenser fans operate in series with the compressor, but not always. is the compressor and condenser fans operating.

1st item of business should be is the freezer evap fan operating. most of the Samsung / LG fans are very quite when running. Some fans turn off when the doors are open... some don't. Open the freezer door and listen, if not hold the door switch (if present, some models use a hidden magnetic reed switch to sense door action) closed and give it 15sec to sense. Do you hear a whirling rotational noise. If not and or if so... next touch along the back wall of the freezer. Do you feel frosty ice... if so you might have a defrost failure and it may be restricting the evap fan. (most not the easiest to access or service). Further help would need further answers from you.

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Hey,

Appreciate the reply and sorry for the late reply!

When the fridge and freezer doors are closed, I can hear a whizzing noise (most likely the fan), and I'm pretty sure it's a noise I haven't hear before.

Also, the freezer cools but the cold air does not circulate - the bottom end of the freezer is working as expected and freezes items & ice cubes, but the top end is warm and not cold at all.

It seems like it's the circulation fan or something similar?

Any way to confirm/test that it's the fan?

Cheers!

- de

Exact same issue as the above with GE side by side Profile PSS27HNA BS. Replaced main control board. Freezer still no lower than 10 degrees a day later after unplugging for 24 hrs. Fridge cools but they both loose temp after opening and closing doors. Hear a constant whirring sound when doors are closed as if a fan... but there is no air moving in the freezer. Feel a light frost rebuilding on rear freezer panel.

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