An automatic drip coffee maker, manufactured beginning in 2010, by Mr. Coffee. Also identified by model numbers BVMC-SJX36GT and BVMC-SJX36GTWM.

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Coffee not brewing but light is on.

The brewing light is on but, no sounds or other signs of brewing. Power is good. Need to also know how to check for particle accumulation.

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Try this from the troubleshooting guide.

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Same problem, checked the valve, all wire connections look good and still same problem. Lights come on, sometimes hear click but nothing works (no water flows and no heat). Have checked and double checked everything in guides. Any other ideas?

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Kathy me too - if you hear anything please let me know!

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same problem - lights come on and that is it. Beyond frustrated!!

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Lights are on but will not brew

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Probably the thermo cut-off device is stuck in "open" condition a safety component used to prevent over heating and potential fire. It's in the internal wiring to monitor the temperature where the water is brought up to boiling. It triggers every time as you finish brewing, to cut the flow of electricity to the heating coil. It now must be replaced which an experienced do-it-yourselfer can do, but you must find the right temperature "thermo-disc" (usually rated to open at about 220F/105C) to wire in. Unfortunately I've never seen one with a simple plugin feature. This is NOT an uncommon problem as a coffeemaker ages.

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This is what is wrong with mine but it isn't intended to be soldered in. I havn't had mine long but after looking around on the internet, I suspect a weak compontent. I may just buy a new coffee maker rather than fool with it.

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On my 4 cup Mr. Coffee, one of two thermal cutoff fuses is open. If either/both of those fuses is open, no power will reach the heating element and the water won't boil nor will the warming plate feel hot even if the power switch is lit.

They can be checked with an ohmmeter/continuity tester.

The thermal elements are accessible by removing the plastic cover on the bottom.

I will bypass the failed fuse by wiring a new 216C/250v/10A device in parallel. All connections are crimped or spot welded so the new fuse leads will have to be wrapped around the existing leads.

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