Released September 25, 2015. Model A1688/A1633. Repair of this device is similar to previous generations, requiring screwdrivers and prying tools. Available as GSM or CDMA / 16, 64, or 128 GB / Silver, Gold, Space Gray, or Rose Gold options.

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No Backlight after Screen Replacement

Hello community!

I've been repairing iPhones for a while - stand at around 215 successful to date. HOWEVER, today I've received an iPhone 6s in need of a screen replacement.

The phone worked with the cracked screen. I installed my new screen without transferring the front camera & home button to test, and it worked fine.

After transferring everything I closed up and BOOM the phone display stays black. Later I found that the phone is on, and if I shine on it with a torch I can see the display.

For the first time I read about "long screw damage"? I am 100% certain my screws went into the right holes. What I did not do: was remove the battery before repair. I've never done this and never had an issue.

Anyhow: what are my options to repair? I cannot do board level repairs. I bought the customer a new phone, but am trying to minimise my losses by fixing the old phone.

I live in South-Africa and cannot find any repairers close to me?

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You can check the LCD screen first if there is any questions

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As far as I heard it's coused by not disconnecting the battery, therefore the backlight ic is damaged and need to be replaced

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FL4211 is the little filter that blows most often when not disconnecting the battery during screen change. The "IC" is just to the left of the Capacitors and diodes in red with top right pad (in red)

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This is a photo of the Backlight connection to the screen assembly that can sometimes short out if not covered

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As far as I heard it's coused by not disconnecting the battery, therefore the backlight IC is damaged and need to be replaced.

I have never tried to replace this IC nor I know where it is located on the board.

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I agree. It's bad practice not disconnecting the repair before removing any other ribbon cable.

This is strongly recommended if you really want to avoid blowing any fuses, shorting circuits in the future. Definitely required on all iPhone 6S and iPad Digitizer and LCD replacements unless you want to kill backlight or LCD at worst.

The backlight ic is usually located near the LCD connector pins on the logic board for any iPhone, iPad if I'm correct.

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Just like you; replace screen and no back light. So it turns out that the back light fuse is not blown. There's a little piece of black tape that covers the back light sensor underneath the ribbon that is attached to the frame. Put the black tape back just as the original was and the back light will work again.

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hey i have the same problem can you show where this is??

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Yeah, any idea where this sensor actually is? That would be super helpful. Googling doesn't help. The old screen works, but two new ones don't.

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Giovanni Joubert estará eternamente agradecido.
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