wheels in front angled out

the wheels in front are angled out what is a solution since the manual tells you nothing on this problem

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That depends on what model the mower is and what exactly you mean by "angled out" Take a picture and post it with your question. that way we can see what you see ;-)

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This is most likely caused by a bent tie rod. Here's a video on how to fix it. Watch it all the way through before starting so you don't dump oil and gas all over and immolate yourself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAiFk4FIT...

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For those who have a toe-out problem with their Sears lawn tractor, I feel your pain. I had the same problem, with the additional problem of the front wheels coming off while cutting . My lawn tractor is a 54 inch cut machine. I has two linkages on each side, a long link from the steering gear to the front axle, and a short linkage running from a plate connected to the front axle to the front wheel. Replacing the linkage might solve the toe-out problem for a while, but it will return as the linkage ages. The solution requires some fabrication, but it isn't too bad. The linkage rods are made of normal steel (not hardened), so they can be modified. My solution was to put rod ends (Amazon, Summit Racing) on each end of the linkages to allow for adjustability, but eliminate most, if not all, of the play in the linkage. Rod ends are usually made with National Fine threads. I found the long linkage has too many minor bends in it to support putting a threads on either end, so I have to bend new linkage rods (5/8 inch rods, but I think one could use 1/2 inch rods). For the short linkage rods, I went to a 3/8 stainless steel threaded rod, but I had to increase the length in order to get the adjustability I needed. Adding a piece to the pivot plate connected to the axle took care of that. I maintained all of the current linkage connection point holes at the factory size (3/8 machine bolt fits just right). Just replacing the short linkage with the rod ends and the threaded rod fixed most of the toe-out problem, and I still have room to make finer adjustments. The pivot shafts for the rod ends are 3/8 inch by 2 machine bolts with the unthreaded part ' hosting' the rod end. One nut threaded all the way down to the unthreaded part, and a second nut to connect the linkage to the existing connection point. I just got the bender to make the longer linkage bars, but I haven't actually make those yet. Some bushings are going to be needed to allow the 5/8 inch rod ends to work with the 3/8 bolt shaft. I still have to extend the steering stops a bit to limit the sharpness of the turn the lawn tractor can make. As far as the wheels falling off, the E-clips that hold the wheel on the axle don't make it. After a few tow-ins, followed by repairs, I drilled a 1/8 inch hole through the axle (they're case hardened, you'll need a carbide bit) and put a spring pin (TSC) through it. I haven't lost a wheel since, and the toe-out fix has taken most of the side play/force out of the wheel.

I can give your more details if you're interested. Use: edrews1, Subject: Lawn tractor steering, domain: yahoo.com. BTW, my neighbor has a Sears lawn tractor, but the linkage on his is different. You may need to adjust the fix above to accommodate differences in your steering linkage. Not including the tools, I probably have $25 - $50 in parts and materials.

One other hint: don't modify the existing connection points or other hardware in making your fix. If your fix doesn't work you can always go back to the old linkage. Also, those adjustable linkages didn't fit my lawn tractor. They also have the same type of connection hardware as the non-adjustable linkages, so you'll be adjusting the length as the connections loosen up. I also had one of those connection points come apart on me.

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A further update on my previous post. I was able to bend new longitudinal linkages from 5/8 steel rod. I did it with a bender, but it could be done with a bench vise and a piece of pipe for leverage. I made the bends to match the angles in the old linkages. I left the ends long so I could cut them to length once I had both linkage bars bent. The overall linkage bar length is a bit shorter due to the use of rod ends for the connections. The threading of the 5/8 inch bar takes a large die and some patience, along with some physical work. Take your time, don't push the die. I threaded one to two inches of the 5/8 rod on each end. When the rod ends are screwed on, I can match the center of the hole in the rod end with the connection points on the existing linkage bar, and still have some room for adjustment. Since I used 3/8 inch bolts for the pivots, I had to make a bushing to fit inside the rod end and around the 3/8 bolt. One can purchase such a bushing, but they seemed a bit pricey to me. Amazon's bushings were hardened, which I don't think is necessary, but the internal and external sizes were correct. I saw some bushings at TSC, but there was a size issue on at least one of the dimensions. I haven't put the linkages in yet. I'll wait until after I get the lawn cut this week.

I'm still working towards adding additional steering limits to prevent the wheels from going close to perpendicular to the direction of travel. That scenario happened once since I put in the short linkage bars, but I didn't see anything bent in the small linkage itself or the connection hardware for the small linkage.

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edrews1 it would be great if you can take plenty of pictures and create a complete guide about your modification. Use this to create a guide https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/new to show us how it is done.

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Dont bother with adjustable links. Modify the pivot plates . 20 minutes tops. My buddy had the same problem on a GT 6000 with tight turn tech. In two words. A joke. He bought all parts and wheels for front end except the axle. Problem was the same after that. Axle is not bent. Solution was simple. Drill the pivot plates with 3/8 hole ~ .45 inches on center next to original hole for short linkage. Loosen short link and put the link mounting threaded end into new hole and secure not on top. The wheels will be straight after you do this to both ends. On this fix the wheels ended up with a very slight toe in which is normal. Worked very well. Have pictures but could not attach here. I will create a ifixit guide. Ed P - tractor savant

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My tractor has that problem, and found the wheel hub is worn out....metal shavings all over the rim. Guess it's time to get new rims!!

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I had that with my Craftsman 21hp lawn tractor. I drove one wheel into a hole and bent the tie rod. You can see a video on how to fix this and where to order through repairclinic.com or on youtube. I only replaced the one side, but will do the other to make sure. If you leave this problem too long, your wheel might fall off because there are metal tubes (flange bearings in mine) in each wheel and they will really wear out quickly when the wheels are toes out (facing out a bit). Your wheel/s will then be really loose because of the excess rubbing and actually wear the bearings right down which makes the wheel loose and washers and clamps fall off. That all worked so no need to replace the axle, which seemed not to be bent.

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I bought a Snapper riding mower yesterday and it's towed out about an inch or more. A friend who is a retired auto master tech told me an EASY WAY to make the tie rods adjustable.

My tie rods are 3/8, I went to Auto Zone and bought 2 -- NEEDA #551035 compression unions. He said I can cut the tie rod somewhere and use the union to reconnect the two pieces. But the union will allow me to adjust the tie rods up to maybe 1/2" longer apiece which should be WAY more than I need.

For some reason, the part number did not come up on the Auto Zone website, but I found them on one of those spinning hardware displays that also display bolts and door panel clips.

To see a pic, go to Yahoo images and type in "551035 compression union". Again, this part number is for a 3/8 tie rod, you need to measure yours and buy accordingly . Hope this helps !!!

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